Final edge continued

remfallen said:
That is correct, I set it at a 45 degree angle to start, grind down to the scribe lines, and then lessen the angle on the jig 10 degrees and then grind to the scribe lines again, and complete this process over and over. I usually run out of jig angle before im able to meet the spine with the bevel
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I think I know where you make mistake ......You *lessen* the angle too much and you grind more toward spine :) Use permanent marker on bevels after ever change of angle so you can see where you remove steel

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Natlek said:
I think I know where you make mistake ......You *lessen* the angle too much and you grind more toward spine :) Use permanent marker on bevels after ever change of angle so you can see where you remove steel

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I do! I start at 45, grind to scribe, lessen it 10 degrees, color bevel edge with sharpie, grind until sharpie is gone, lessen angle again and repeat the process.
 
Maybe your platen is dished out? The grind does not look very flat - just judging by the photos, hard to tell.
EDIT: well that would not cause the problem you desribe I guess... so please disregard.
 
pafka said:
Maybe your platen is dished out? The grind does not look very flat - just judging by the photos, hard to tell.
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Your right its not flat but that is from my lack of free grinding skills lol. I could only take it so far with the jig so the rest was done by free handing it and I was trying to hog off material to lessen the behind edge material so its not perfect.
 
remfallen said:
I do! I start at 45, grind to scribe, lessen it 10 degrees, color bevel edge with sharpie, grind until sharpie is gone, lessen angle again and repeat the process.
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FORGET that 10 degrees .................Just use Sharpie .And move that adjusting bolts very little .
 
Natlek said:
FORGET that 10 degrees .................Just use Sharpie .And move that adjusting bolts very little .
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CORRECTION I see what your saying. Alright ill give it a try! I think today im gonna try making a knew jig that has only one bolt. Just gotta find a tap set that wont strip out on me....
 
Regardless of how you shape the bade, the main thing you want is when the bevels are done the edge is almost sharp. It won't cut paper, but feels sharp to the finger. This is when you start the final edge.
 
remfallen said:
CORRECTION I see what your saying. Alright ill give it a try! I think today im gonna try making a knew jig that has only one bolt. Just gotta find a tap set that wont strip out on me....
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Work rest is not adjustable ? If not use longer angle iron so bevels to be whole supported . Use bigger size of angle iron if you have ? And pay attention where you apply pressure, you can easy raise bottom side of jig if you don t pay attention ..... and you will chasing the tail :)
 
One of my angle iron jig

Lc7YvJ7.jpg

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when I change grinding angle

ejjP3Il.jpg
 
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Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Let's talk numbers:
The bevel angle on most knives is around 4° to 7°. A .10" thick knife with a 1.5" height has an "edge" angle of 4°.
If you want the secondary bevel (cutting edge) to be 15 degrees per side, it should make a edge line about .020-.030" high. (Assuming the edge is .010" thick at .020" from the edge it would be 30°.)

All this is why I hate jigs. They may or may not be ny good at getting precise angles. They don't allow you to follow the edge.
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Can you explain this to me ? Why jig don t allow me to follow the edge ? And how you come to conclusion that JIG are not good at getting precise angle ? I use them for years and what I learn is complete opposite of what you write , my friend ? And don't again take this as some kind of aggressive behavior on my part :)
 
"So I scribe the center lines, then grind at a 45 degree angle to those lines to start, and then drop 10 degrees every time I reach the scribe lines there after."

Okay, think about this. You set it at 45 degrees and grind to the scribe line on the edge side of the blade. Then you change it 10 degrees and grind to the same scribe line on the edge side of the blade, repeat.
That means after the initial 45 degree grind to the scribe line the only material you are removing is on the spine side of the blade. Because you are grinding to the same scribe line on the edge side over and over.
If you followed that process over and over eventually the spine side would become the edge and the edge side would never change.

Do what you are doing and get the grind up to where you want it on the spine. Then change the angle back in the other direction .5 degrees or less so that the only material you are removing is from the edge side. Use a Sharpe to verify where material is coming off. You'll want to be removing material initially from the edge side up about half -way to the spine side of the grind. That way when your grind reaches the spine you'll have taken off a few thousandths of the edge thickness. Keep doing this until you get the edge thickness you want.
 
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Or why not do your initial “45s" until you have basically a sharp edge and then start dropping the angle on the jig?

I also think that chef knifes are not the easiest on the jig as they have very shallow/low angles.

You could also try the push stick method. Basically take your knifes that have too thick BTE thickness and apply pressure with the stick on the edge until you start to see your wide secondary edge getting narrower. This will mean that you are effectively thining the edge.
 
FredyCro said:
Or why not do your initial “45s" until you have basically a sharp edge and then start dropping the angle on the jig?

I also think that chef knifes are not the easiest on the jig as they have very shallow/low angles.

You could also try the push stick method. Basically take your knifes that have too thick BTE thickness and apply pressure with the stick on the edge until you start to see your wide secondary edge getting narrower. This will mean that you are effectively thining the edge.
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Fredy my friend , I make so far over a hundred kitchen knives from 1.5mm thick steel . Even full flat ! And I don t give **** about any angle . I just adjust work rest angle as I grind .................. till I get what I want :)

YanydI1.jpg

Last one , almost to sharp edge ...................1.5 mm
HdL4iQX.jpg
 
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FredyCro said:
Or why not do your initial “45s" until you have basically a sharp edge and then start dropping the angle on the jig?
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Stacy advised same .............that is VERY bad advice ..........................to work it depend of thickness of steel and how high you will grind bevels .
This is 2 mm. thick M390 steel .....full flat , 0.20 behind edge before sharpening .....If I follow that advice I would l end up with fillet knife ?

EBIp71O.jpg

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Natlek said:
Fredy my friend , I make so far over a hundred kitchen knives from 1.5mm thick steel . Even full flat ! And I don t give **** about any angle . I just adjust work rest angle as I grind .................. till I get what I want :)

YanydI1.jpg

Last one , almost to sharp edge ...................1.5 mm
HdL4iQX.jpg
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Congrats on that last one, I didn't say it's not possible, i just think it's not easy, especially if OP still doesn't grasp if he is grinding towards the edge or spine..

For such thin stock and low angle your blank and your platen will be need to be really flat and you skills will need to be really up to level to have really nice results.
 
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