Finally a proper kiln!

Stacy, the enclosure was made for when I weld stuff and want to keep the sparks reasonably contained. The steel table under the kiln is on rollers so I will pull it out of there when using it.

My wiring was done like Rick's on the outside of the wall. The electrician did use yellow wire so I guess that can stay but since I only have about 8 feet of it I may use shielded wire and instead and go to 10/3 for that too.

For the extension, I was talking about making one like you said. Again I don't need much, maybe 6 feet.

Thanks guys for the warnings, tips, good words and the detailed cookie instructions. ;)

One thing I'll surely try is that pizza Bob, thanks! :D :thumbup:
 
Patrice Lemée;9469415 said:
My wiring was done like Rick's on the outside of the wall. The electrician did use yellow wire so I guess that can stay but since I only have about 8 feet of it I may use shielded wire and instead and go to 10/3 for that too.
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Yep, I was okay to use 10/3 wire, too but because I was at the 28ft mark, decided to go with the 12/3 as it was recommeded for 30ft and over.
 
Pat,

Congrats ! I'm excited for ya

There are a bunch of ways to wire stuff that could pose a problem and there are several factors that will effect the needed wire size, Amps and length of the run come to mind.

I've got my 220 wired just like your thinking about doing-

Dedicated 20amp breaker-
Wired with 10-2WG to my vfd.
Pigtailed from VFD box to Evenheat outlet.

My Lincoln 180c has a different plug than the evenheat but is also rated 20amps so I made a short extension cord with 10-2WG that has a plug that matches the Evenheat on one side and an outlet that matches the welders plug on the other.

This way I can unplug the oven and plug in the welder.

I only use one 220v tool at a time but FWIW both the VFD and the oven's PID will shut themselves down if they aren't getting proper power supplied, IE if you overloaded your 20amp breaker the VFD and Oven will err and shut themselves down and show a low voltage error code.

I think this is the first time I ever disagreed with Stacy. The outside of the oven WILL get hot. But it's not gonna get hot enough to heat up your shield, at least mine doesn't. At 2000 degrees you can put your hand right beside the ovens skin and feel the warmth but you won't get burned unless you touch the oven.

-Josh
 
You're right Stacy, in a house type environment with wiring existing in the wall. The mindset I'm coming from is a bit different, the wiring in my shop is exposed in many places, and I can still add circuits pretty easy.

I didn't really mean upsizing, I guess. I'd leave the entire circuit and breaker in place, and add a new breaker and circuit if possible.

Thankfully Patrice is probably too smart to take my earlier post at face value.:eek:

It seems though, that Pat is lucky enough to have an easily moddable situation for the circuit.
 
Patrice Lemée;9467814 said:
The plug on the right is 6-15 and it is on a 15 amps breaker. On the kiln it says it draws 15 amps but the plug as you say is 6-20. Does it mean I need a bigger breaker? (I guess so) :(

Thanks for your help.

PS: Sorry I know the shop is a pigsty. Built a slower buffer yesterday and I did not have time to clean up. ;)
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Well that all depends on the actual full load amp draw of the kiln. If the kiln says 15 and that is the FLA. Then you would need to install a 20 amp breaker, wire (#12 awg/guage) and plug. 80% of 20 amps is 16. this would protect a 15 amp load. If you keep the 15 amp wiring and breaker you will have nuisance trips due to over heating and you risk the insulation melting and creating a direct short. This would be a shock hazard and a possible fire hazard. Change it out to 20 if the 15 amp is Full load or actual draw at max temperature.
 
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