When I am having issues with refining the apex going with a softer bond will always fix them, always. All the variables do play a part but bond hardness is possibly the biggest variable in my experience. Plated diamonds are the most aggressive cutting tool there is, with the least give, so they tend to do the most damage to the underlying work material. My post was mainly about how the fine plated diamonds still leave a toothy edge, which I think have far more to do with the damage to the apex than scratches making a saw tooth edge.
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Finally Breaking 100 BESS—Thoughts & Feedback Welcome
- Thread starter jim310r
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That's also what I suspect. Even the newer metallic bonded diamond stones seem to leave more toothiness and have have less polishing ability versus something like a resin bond. I noticed pretty early on that it's better to use plates or metallic bonds for faster material removal and bevel setting, and for finishing when toothy edges are more desirable. Resin if you want to go up in polish, after finding the right spot to bridge the progression. I don't understand the appeal of high grit metallic bonded stones or plates and tend to get very noticeably better polishing from resin.
Last edited:
Wowbagger
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I haven't been keeping up with the latest posts in this thread.
I'm happy with my edges .
I did however stumble across this post by Vivi over in Spyder Land that I agree with.
Hope you don't mind me borrowing a tiny portion of your post Vivi :
VivI Posted :
1. People use stupid geometries for their knives, to be blunt.
Cliff Stamp used to advocate for knife users to find their own optimal edge angle. His method was simple. Keep sharpening a given knife or cutting tool thinner and thinner, until the edge starts to fail while being used for the intended purpose of the tool. Sharpen it a degree or two thicker than the failure angle, or utilize a microbevel. I'm not aware of anyone here that does that.
I did do this. I found for my uses I could go below 10 degrees per side without a microbevel on VG10 & S30V & 8Cr Byrds and Spydercos and be totally fine cutting food, rope, cardboard etc. I did see some very, very minor chipping or rolling something when carving knotty seasoned wood, which led me to utilize microbevels. I've posted a zdp189 caly jr I reprofiled to full convex zero grind where this happened.
So when I talk about running 10-12 dps edges, despite those edges being twice as thin as the angle some people use, that's actually a good bit thicker than I need. I chose 10-12dps because it's quicker to apply than 8dps and gives me a little wiggle room in case of accidents. Chips aren't very severe even when I do something like accidentally chop into a rock while clearing briars from a camp site with my voyager xl.
17 degrees per side on a pocket knife is really inefficient and I simply can't fathom dropping hundreds to thousands on high performance knives and keeping the training wheels on. I've used this analogy a lot but to me it's like buying a nice sports car and keeping the tires at 20psi and running standard gas. It's leaving a lot of performance on the table for no good reason.
I'm happy with my edges .
I did however stumble across this post by Vivi over in Spyder Land that I agree with.
Hope you don't mind me borrowing a tiny portion of your post Vivi :
VivI Posted :
1. People use stupid geometries for their knives, to be blunt.
Cliff Stamp used to advocate for knife users to find their own optimal edge angle. His method was simple. Keep sharpening a given knife or cutting tool thinner and thinner, until the edge starts to fail while being used for the intended purpose of the tool. Sharpen it a degree or two thicker than the failure angle, or utilize a microbevel. I'm not aware of anyone here that does that.
I did do this. I found for my uses I could go below 10 degrees per side without a microbevel on VG10 & S30V & 8Cr Byrds and Spydercos and be totally fine cutting food, rope, cardboard etc. I did see some very, very minor chipping or rolling something when carving knotty seasoned wood, which led me to utilize microbevels. I've posted a zdp189 caly jr I reprofiled to full convex zero grind where this happened.
So when I talk about running 10-12 dps edges, despite those edges being twice as thin as the angle some people use, that's actually a good bit thicker than I need. I chose 10-12dps because it's quicker to apply than 8dps and gives me a little wiggle room in case of accidents. Chips aren't very severe even when I do something like accidentally chop into a rock while clearing briars from a camp site with my voyager xl.
17 degrees per side on a pocket knife is really inefficient and I simply can't fathom dropping hundreds to thousands on high performance knives and keeping the training wheels on. I've used this analogy a lot but to me it's like buying a nice sports car and keeping the tires at 20psi and running standard gas. It's leaving a lot of performance on the table for no good reason.