Finally got to use a couple of my Reeves axes! Results are good and not so good......

[rcwells]

Pecan tree in back yard let go of another big branch, time to clean up. Instead of breaking out the Stihl, I decided to do this one the old fashioned way and use a couple of my Reeves axes. The belt axe performed amazingly, and was very efficient and I couldn't be happier with it! Felt great in the hand and did work!
The larger, cruiser axe on the other hand, didn't fare so well. While the blades seemed sharp enough, they didn't bite like I would have liked and the haft finally let go before I could get through the largest portion of the branch. Could have been my technique, but I didn't hit anything with the haft, just was doing work and it let go. If you can tell by the pics that I did something wrong in my technique, please, feel free to let me know so that I can avoid repeating this!!

I've been doing a lot of reading and research lately on hanging axes and grain orientation and such and if you will look at the grain on this haft, it's about as good as it can get from what I've read. YET, it failed and without a lot of pressure which is highly disappointing. And I believe the handle to be of Osage Orange which from what I understand is supposed to be really strong. The good news here is I get to hang an axe for the first time. Which is also the bad news because I have zero experience in this area. So now, I have to find a suitable replacement.

I would very much appreciate suggestions on where to buy a replacement. I would like to shape and design it to my personal preference rather than buy one that is already shaped and ready to hang. I could use that big ass pecan branch to make a new one (ironic don't you think?) but I know they are too weak for work. Every time the wind blows they drop branches.

I know hickory is THE preferred wood, but wouldn't mind doing something a bit more aesthetically pleasing yet tough. Ideas?

Pics:

 

[rcwells]

The little guy did most of the work. Then started in with big brother.....

 

[rcwells]

End result:

 

[Beachlogger]

Looks like a break similar to the axe mauls thread
Grain runout only worse

 

[rjdankert]

. . . haft finally let go. . .

Can it be returned?

Bob

 

[rcwells]

If you mean re-use what's left of it, no, unless I was to make it a much shorter axe, like 17" or so. No, it will need a new haft. I can however use what's left to rehang one of the belt axes in the event that I break one of the handles on them.

 

[Square_peg]

On the bright side you have some Pecan (a hickory) to make a new haft with.

I applaud your work. Much more fun to do it with axes and hatchets than it is with a chainsaw.

 

[Twindog]

Did the break cross grain boundaries, or follow them? I can't quite tell. It's almost like the haft dried out and shattered under stress or an overstrike. I can see parallel cracks.

The wedge is interesting because it's like the grain pattern in the wedge and the haft line up perfectly, like it's one piece of wood.

Anyway, cool axe. And it's always good to have an excuse to rehang a good axe, just as it's always good to have an excuse to use it as intended.

 

[rcwells]

Did the break cross grain boundaries, or follow them? I can't quite tell. It's almost like the haft dried out and shattered under stress or an overstrike. I can see parallel cracks.

The wedge is interesting because it's like the grain pattern in the wedge and the haft line up perfectly, like it's one piece of wood.

Anyway, cool axe. And it's always good to have an excuse to rehang a good axe, just as it's always good to have an excuse to use it as intended.

Funny you say that, because it looked really dry to me as well and that thought hit me. On the other hand, I wouldn't think that the wood should be "moist" either (?). I don't know. I had soaked the head/poll area with blo when I received it, as I have done with all my axes, just to make sure that it was fitting tightly. I didn't overstrike with it at any time.
When you ask about the break crossing grain boundaries, are you looking at it from the outside of the handle, or from the inside?
As for the wedge, it is there and if you look closely you can see that the grain isn't perfectly lined up, but damn close! Apparently Lee took the extra time on this particular one to make sure that it did so, there's no way that was an accident.

 

[rjdankert]

If you mean re-use what's left of it, no, unless I was to make it a much shorter axe, like 17" or so. No, it will need a new haft. . .

Let me clarify my post:

Can it be returned?
. . .

Can it be sent back to Lee Reeves (i.e. returned) and have a new handle put on?

"I guarantee my workmanship for life (my life of course). Thank you for your interest in my work,

Lee Reeves"​

http://ssidders.tripod.com/id409.htm


Bob

 

[jstare]

I would assume after long term use if the handle broke it wouldn't be replaceable. But if this was actually the first time in use, you would think that Lee Reeves would at the very least send you a replacement handle to put on there since it failed so quickly.

As Square_peg mentioned above, Pecan is a species of Hickory so if you have a large enough piece of that tree you could make a handle out of it. You would want to let it properly dry and season before you make the final handle though so you will have to wait a little bit.

 

[Square_peg]

As Square_peg mentioned above, Pecan is a species of Hickory so if you have a large enough piece of that tree you could make a handle out of it. You would want to let it properly dry and season before you make the final handle though so you will have to wait a little bit.

He could make two handles. One now of green pecan to get his axe swinging right away. Of course he would have to tighten the wedge a few times over the next few weeks. But it's not a big deal. For his second handle he could cut a stave now and let it season, then make his final handle later.

I've hafted on green wood before. And fellow forum member G-pig who used to post here a lot regularly hafted with green wood with no problems.

 

[rcwells]

Let me clarify my post:

Can it be sent back to Lee Reeves (i.e. returned) and have a new handle put on?

"I guarantee my workmanship for life (my life of course). Thank you for your interest in my work,

Lee Reeves"​

http://ssidders.tripod.com/id409.htm


Bob

Yeah, gotcha, I may have misread it. I don't know, I bought it second hand, so not sure if he would fix it or not. I could email him and ask, couldn't hurt right? Worst he could say is no.

As for the pecan, I did read some on it and it seems it is closely related to the hickory, which is odd to me, as they are really bad about letting branches go. Weird. I would think oak would make better handles but hickory seems to be the go to. Idk. Anyone else find that odd?

 

[TexAg]

Those are some damn fine looking pieces, RC. I've personally never owned or used a Reeves, but after seeing those beauties I just might have to...
Also, as a fellow relative newcomer to the axe world, I've lurked these boards trying to soak up as much info as I can. However, I still wonder about the grain characteristic in an axe handle. I understand direction & continuity of the grain is important, but how important is "spacing", for lack of a better term?

In other words, is it better to have a handle with 8 bands through the handle or upwards of 20 tighter bands of grain like the pictures above?

 

[garry3]

There was a lot wrong with that haft. Run out, probably aggravated by the sharp shoulder killed that haft rather early.

Osage might be the best handle material you can get, but it will not over come everything.

 

[garry3]

Those are some damn fine looking pieces, RC. I've personally never owned or used a Reeves, but after seeing those beauties I just might have to...
Also, as a fellow relative newcomer to the axe world, I've lurked these boards trying to soak up as much info as I can. However, I still wonder about the grain characteristic in an axe handle. I understand direction & continuity of the grain is important, but how important is "spacing", for lack of a better term?

In other words, is it better to have a handle with 8 bands through the handle or upwards of 20 tighter bands of grain like the pictures above?

I am of the opinion that with ring porous hard woods it is all about the early to late wood ratio. Its as simple as the heavier the wood the stronger. In general the less rings to the inch usually produces the best late to early wood ratio's.
Even rather average Osage should be more than strong enough for a good haft. With Osage we are speaking heart wood only.

 

[Twindog]

There was a lot wrong with that haft. Run out, probably aggravated by the sharp shoulder killed that haft rather early.

Osage might be the best handle material you can get, but it will not over come everything.

Can you explain that? I'm having trouble seeing the runout. It looks to me as though the break ran perpendicular to the grain, crossing grain boundaries, not running with them.

 

[Square_peg]

I understand direction & continuity of the grain is important, but how important is "spacing", for lack of a better term?

In other words, is it better to have a handle with 8 bands through the handle or upwards of 20 tighter bands of grain like the pictures above?

Hickory is optimal when it has between 5 and 20 growth rings per inch. Good hickory can be found with up to 40 GR/I but it's not reliable. Flexibility may peak at 12-15 GR/I. The Forest Service and some railroads used to specify 5-20 GR/I in their supply contracts.

 

[herektir]

Its hard to tell from those pictures, i need a closeup of the grain direction near the breaks. With osage its important to follow the growth rings, and the wood fibers(grain), ie both axis. Ive made several hammer handles out of osage and becuase of the woods nature each handle is never quiet straight but they work wonderfully. They tend to have slight overall curve or perhaps a small bit of wavy shape. Look online at completed self bows made out of osage, they are wavy, irregular, curvy.

It is about impossible to get a true straight axe handle length of wood without runout with bodark.

 

[garry3]

Its hard to tell from those pictures, i need a closeup of the grain direction near the breaks. With osage its important to follow the growth rings, and the wood fibers(grain), ie both axis. Ive made several hammer handles out of osage and becuase of the woods nature each handle is never quiet straight but they work wonderfully. They tend to have slight overall curve or perhaps a small bit of wavy shape. Look online at completed self bows made out of osage, they are wavy, irregular, curvy.

It is about impossible to get a true straight axe handle length of wood without runout with bodark.

I have heard of straight grained osage, but I have heard of sasquatch also.

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