Finally looking to get my own 2x72 - what manufacture do you recommend? (Reeder - OMB - KMG?)

Good call on the small wheel attachment! Very useful! If you got a flat platen, I would get a rubber coated 2" wheel to use on it as a small contact wheel instead of running 2 aluminum 2" idlers. I use a 2" and 6" rubber contact wheel on my combo platen for 95% of my handle shaping, and the small wheel with a 3/4" or 1" for the remainder! Hollow grind wheel is nice if you do it, but if you want a bigger contact wheel, look at Radius Platens instead, much less expensive! I got a 36" radius platen for $75 to do very shallow hollow grinds on kitchen knives and stuff. Getting a good large diameter 14" wheel is a few hundred!
 
Taz said:
Good call on the small wheel attachment! Very useful! If you got a flat platen, I would get a rubber coated 2" wheel to use on it as a small contact wheel instead of running 2 aluminum 2" idlers. I use a 2" and 6" rubber contact wheel on my combo platen for 95% of my handle shaping, and the small wheel with a 3/4" or 1" for the remainder! Hollow grind wheel is nice if you do it, but if you want a bigger contact wheel, look at Radius Platens instead, much less expensive! I got a 36" radius platen for $75 to do very shallow hollow grinds on kitchen knives and stuff. Getting a good large diameter 14" wheel is a few hundred!
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Where did you find your radius platen?
75$ sounds awesome.
aside from more heat, does it work the same as a dynamic wheel?

Thanks.
 
Mine is from AmeriBrade, I know they went up to $85 IIRC recently, but there are other places that make them from what I have seen online. I put some magnets on my normal mild steel platen and am swapping the faces out for quick changes, so any radius platen with a metal backer will work on my machine, not brand specific. I saw one where they did a flat back plate and then bent steel to the curve they wanted, attached it to the back plate, then heat treated the steel to harden it. You could also get the thick piece of steel, harden it and then grind it into the curve/radius you want.

It gets hot, but gives a nice shallow hollow. I put a piece of leather on mine so I can get a higher level of belt finish with it to soften the belt splice bump like I do on my flat platens.
 
Of the three you mentioned Reeder would be the only one I would consider. Ameritrade, and Brodbeck get a lot of recommendations. The only ones I would personally get are Burr King, Northridge and Wuertz machine works.
 
I know it's a little more on the expensive side but I couldn't be happier with the tw90. Phenomenal grinder, I've had it for 10 years.

-Josiah
 
I'm also considering a 2x72 and the replies to this thread have been very helpful. I was wondering how important people think the ability to tilt the grinder horizontally is; it doesn't look to me as if the Pheer has that ability. And do people find that the Reeder is made from aluminum a problem? Thanks!
 
Ricky-O said:
I'm also considering a 2x72 and the replies to this thread have been very helpful. I was wondering how important people think the ability to tilt the grinder horizontally is; it doesn't look to me as if the Pheer has that ability. And do people find that the Reeder is made from aluminum a problem? Thanks!
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I have a DIY aluminum grinder and it's holding up great. The ability to tilt the grinder is very useful, especially for a surface grinding attachment.
 
Ricky-O said:
I'm also considering a 2x72 and the replies to this thread have been very helpful. I was wondering how important people think the ability to tilt the grinder horizontally is; it doesn't look to me as if the Pheer has that ability. And do people find that the Reeder is made from aluminum a problem? Thanks!
Click to expand...
After having a grinder that tilts I'd say it's 100% necessary. I started on a coot grinder that had the ability to tip forward and I have a small wheel attachment, that works going horizontal is so much better. I'd say my grinder gets used horizontally at least as much as it does vertically.
 
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