Finally taking the next steps..

Another vote for wiha. I'd start with your seb. Can't get much more straightforward than that. Would also recommend watching youtube videos on disassembling whichever knife you choose. It makes all the difference to be able to think through it before you actually do it.
 
Are the polls still open to vote for Wiha drivers? I'll add my ballot to their landslide victory regardless.

I got away with cheap drivers off auto parts store counters for years, but finally had a disaster that sent me scurrying to the keyboard to order Wihas. Replacing my third of fourth set of Griptilian scales, I tore up both my drivers and the body screws. I had to drill them out and wrecked the Noryl handle :grumpy:, but it was of little consequence as I have several sets of those hateful scales and don't anticipate selling my Grips anyway. :D I'm just glad I didn't learn my lesson on something that mattered.

I'll also second the motion for a second set of drivers. I would suggest buying, 1) a set of the individual precision torx drivers, plus 2) a set of individual 1/4" hex-shank torx bits along with a fat, stubby bit-holder. That way you'll have that second set for knives that require two drivers the same size plus a more substantial tool that can help you loosen overly LocTited or torqued-down screws.

For lube, I'm a big NanoOil fan. A very little goes a long way and their applicators let you add just a tiny amount. Lots of knives come with too much grease that will never dry to lubricate properly. A drop of W5 or W10 to each side of the pivot will free up the action. A thorough disassembly, cleaning, re-lube is of course the better course given the time or opportunity. When doing so I'll usually put a little W85 in the pivot hole and W10 on the washers/bearings. For CRKs I've lately adopted my friend Anarchy84's method of W85 in the pivot hole and fluorinated grease on the washers. A tiny drop or dab of something in the detent-ball track goes a long way toward smoothing out the action for frame- or liner-locks. Just try to keep it off the lock-face.
 
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ChazzyP said:
Are the polls still open to vote for Wiha drivers? I'll add my ballot to their landslide victory regardless.

I got away with cheap drivers off auto parts store counters for years, but finally had a disaster that sent me scurrying to the keyboard to order Wihas. Replacing my third of fourth set of Griptilian scales, I tore up both my drivers and the body screws. I had to drill them out and wrecked the Noryl handle :grumpy:, but it was of little consequence as I have several sets of those hateful scales and don't anticipate selling my Grips anyway. :D I'm just glad I didn't learn my lesson on something that mattered.

I'll also second the motion for a second set of drivers. I would suggest buying, 1) a set of the individual precision torx drivers, plus 2) a set of individual 1/4" hex-shank torx bits along with a fat, stubby bit-holder. That way you'll have that second set for knives that require two drivers the same size plus a more substantial tool that can help you loosen overly LocTited or torqued-down screws.

For lube, I'm a big NanoOil fan. A very little goes a long way and their applicators let you add just a tiny amount. Lots of knives come with too much grease that will never dry to lubricate properly. A drop of W5 or W10 to each side of the pivot will free up the action. A thorough disassembly, cleaning, re-lube is of course the better course given the time or opportunity. When doing so I'll usually put a little W85 in the pivot hole and W10 on the washers/bearings. For CRKs I've lately adopted my friend Anarchy85's method of W85 in the pivot hole and fluorinated grease on the washers. A tiny drop or dab of something in the detent-ball track goes a long way toward smoothing out the action for frame- or liner-locks. Just try to keep it off the lock-face.
Click to expand...

I have purchased Wiha drivers and Nano oil :)
 
Sorry for the double post, but I wanted to update the thread and let everyone know that I got some Wiha drivers, nano oil, painters tape, some microfiber clothes and Loctite Blue. I think my next purchase will be a Spyderco Sharpmaker. I will post some pictures of my progress as soon as I make some. Thank you for everyones input and advice!
 
It starts with just a knife....then some companions...then the wiha and a few other accoutrements....next thing you know, you have a dedicated "knife workbench" and are spending just as much money on stuff to take care of your knives as you are on actual knives. At least I only have the one hobby.
 
I cleaned out and lubed my Sebenza, it was super easy to do and it is extremely smooth. It was just a pleasure taking it apart.

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Taking apart the ZT 0452CF was much more tricky. I eventually got it and the action seemed good. But I hear some slight scratching when opening / closing when I put my ears close up. I don't know if I just need to break it in or if I didn't use enough nano oil. Overall it is pretty good though. It is a very relaxing and zen like experience. Thanks for all your help!
 
Here's something you guys don't want to hear, but it's the truth:
Those screws are there for ease of assembly, NOT for disassembly.
For a couple of hundred years, folding knives didn't have any screws-they were pinned together. People were able to "clean and maintain" them just fine.
I know of no manufacturer that recommends disassembling a knife, and doing so will void most warranties. Screw assembly is simply a modern method of assembling machine-made knives.
 
Bill DeShivs said:
Here's something you guys don't want to hear, but it's the truth:
Those screws are there for ease of assembly, NOT for disassembly.
For a couple of hundred years, folding knives didn't have any screws-they were pinned together. People were able to "clean and maintain" them just fine.
I know of no manufacturer that recommends disassembling a knife, and doing so will void most warranties. Screw assembly is simply a modern method of assembling machine-made knives.
Click to expand...

CRK includes the tools for disassembly, grease for the inside, and a tube of purple loctite on their knives without the pivot bushing system.
 
Well, now I know of one.
Regardless, most knives were never designed to be disassembled.
We constantly see here-" I took my XXYSuperCutter apart, and now the blade isn't cantered, doesn't lock, etc."
Knives don't have to be disassembled for "maintenance." They are simple little machines with 3 or 4 moving parts.
 
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