Finding natural oil/rust preventative in the field?

This.:thumbup:
Ebbtide said:
Before the internet I carried a USA made Schrade Sharpfinger.
The only time it got oiled was when it got sharpened.
Even then I wiped most of it off.
Never gave a thought to keeping it oiled or inducing patina.

After a while it looked like an old hammer.

I was meticulous about keeping the blade dry though.
I never had it rust on me.
Camping, saltwater fishing on boats and piers…
Once when out on the boat with too much sun and too many beers I didn't wash it with soap and water when I got home.
It had an orange layer of talcum powder like rust on it. That came off with some WD40 and 0000 steel wool in a couple of rubs.

Don't over think it. Your knife won't rust away.
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Watch makers used to use an oil called Squalene. They probably did not have that name for it as the use of it was established long before the commercial production of it began. Fortunately they had a ready but limited source of it on their own nose and foreheads. A simple rub on the side of your nose or forehead with your edge of your thumbnail will give you a small amount to rub into wherever you need it. Unless your body pH is really off (and it probably isn't) it won't rust a steel surface. You can see for yourself. look up Squalene....it sounds weird but it has some very useful properties. It is also found in shark liver oil in high concentration.
 
For finding natural in the field both pine tar and birch oil have been used as a rust preventative in the past. Of course it takes processing to get these but it can be done.
 
I would probably wipe the knife across my forehead if I had to and not worry about it. I have been known to keep a Remington oil wipe in my day pack. While fishing, I usually have some regular oil with me (reel lube) for my reel.
 
SVTFreak said:
That's all great, and rendered fat would probably be OK, but rubbing a slice of bologna across your blade isn't exactly rendering and removing the meat to prevent rotting.

I'd rather use stainless or bring oil than kill an animal and render the fat down to use to protect my knife....
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The fat part is by product .. I dont kill to oil my knife , I kill because I like meat . Suffering with a stainless blade is so not worth it , BTDT , dont intend to do it again
 
creature7 said:
I own a few 1095 carbon knives and like to keep them well oiled to prevent rusting. I keep lube in the pouch on their sheaths but am trying to think of a way to make due without. Does anyone know of sources for an oil or rust preventative in the wild? I've heard you can use oil from the side of of your nose(not snot) but I have dry skin and in certain climates this may not be reliable. I was thinking maybe animal fat or possibly oil from a plant. Any ideas?
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I suppose if you wanted to go all out native and impress your pals ear wax:barf: would suffice but I'd rather pack a little of the store bought oil.:)
 
neeman said:
I have a small nylon 'rag' slightly damp from mineral oil (baby oil)
It is non greasy and non sticky
And leaves a very fine film
Works very well
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Same here. In a small zip-loc. Weighs nothing in my pack.

And as others have said, a well-formed patina on a carbon blade is a good thing.
 
Skin oil might cause some staining to a carbon steel blade that is so shiny a crow would love it, but a blade with a patina and a very thin coat of oil won't rust appreciably in a short time. Hair has an oil called sebum I think. Also even people with dry face skin have some oil behind their ears. And of course ear wax. I've used all of those to lube a bow drill spindle top so they would work in a pinch on a knife. Just cleaning and oiling after use and before storage is usually enough to prevent rust. Of course stainless is best for those who want their knife to look like the chrome bumper on a '56 Buick. One of my knives (recently stolen) that I owned over 40 years and used afield most of that time butchering deer and other game, and for general camp tasks and was good as new but for the patina.
 
300Six said:
WD-40. This stuff is vegetable oil based (I don't think I'd want to drink it though) and easy enough to wipe off.
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WD-40 contains no vegetable oil, and it is toxic. Read the label, especially the big red letters.
 
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w/d 40 is not good for storing on knives or guns, It actually draws water, Rem oil, Cpl, are the ticket. 3 in 1 oil is great on high carbon blades, w/d does not penetrate steel.
 
tanto4me said:
w/d 40 is not good for storing on knives or guns, It actually draws water, Rem oil, Cpl, are the ticket. 3 in 1 oil is great on high carbon blades, w/d does not penetrate steel.
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WD stands for "Water Displacement". It does not draw water but may leave a varnish like residue once it drys out.
 
Wd40 wouldn't use it on food but got it on an unused (100 year old Katana) since 2003. No rust yet. Never lived near any oceans or in humid climates so take it with a grain of salt.
The tang has some old black rust so I assume it's not some stainless steel :D
 
If I'm out for more than a couple of days, I carry dubbin to use on my boots & I've found that it's ok to use on carbon blades. If you can find the type of dubbin that just uses natural ingredients then the knife will still be ok for food prep. I rub it on the blade with a cloth in a circular motion, leave it for a few minutes, then wipe it off.
As a sheath maker I've started to make my own & it would probably be possible to do this in the field. (Maybe?)
I use a mixture of tallow (which I obtain from suet), Beeswax & cod liver oil. I'm trying to find another oil that would be easier to find & process in the field, but with no luck so far.
If I ever find a suitable oil & I make a mixture that both preserves leather & can oil knives, then you lot will be the first to know.
There's a rumour that dubbin rots stitching, it doesn't if it's applied correctly. Just don't put too much on. This obviously doesn't apply to knives, but I just had to say it!
 
Birch bark contains natural oils, that's why it's such a good fire starter. Scoring a piece of bark and rubbing it on the knife might work.
You can't really use pine pitch, it hardens as it cools. But if you can find fat wood, it contains lots of oil/turpentine that might work.
Neither source will put much of anything on the knife, but it might help.
 
Nothin prevents rust like use... I've been using my carbon mora for years..on everything I've not oiled it once.. it won;t win any beauty contests for sure, but It works
 
keep in mind oily rags are sometimes prone to spontaneous combustion. usually the ones that are bunched up and thrown in a pile of the shop. maybe not the one crammed into your pack. i keep a small bottle of olive oil in my lunch box for after orange peeling.
 
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