Fine Tune Your Leek [How-To with Pictures]

Yes, there might be...
Loosen the clip, place a thin shim of metal between the clip and the pivot (the one you can't grab), and tighten the clip back up.
This should hold the fixed pivot in place enough to get the pivot screw out.
Maybe heat the screw up a bit to break down the Loctite on the screw, too.
A lighter will not heat it up enough to damage anything.
Use good tools on your knives!

Almost forgot: jemebly, Nice Post!
 
Thanks for the reply.

I'll see about the shim idea, that's pretty ingenious. I'm pretty sure I don't want to try heating up the screw any however, I don't want to risk altering the heat treatment of any of the metal parts, or damaging the black coating stuff..
 
excellent post, I'm putting a link in the sebenza tuning threrad to her! :D :D
 
Yay the shim method worked! Thanks a bunch!
I used one of the thin steel strips removed from one of those adhesive security strips found on things like DVDs and whatnot. Rolled it up, and trimmed it to size a bit.
 
Not sure how I missed this thread , jemelby did an excellent post.

You need to loosen the loctite , take a Bic and gently heat up both sides of that pivot screw. Dont get it red hot , just enough to break that bond some. I would lay the knife down flat , maybe on a board and insert the torx head , then tap on it gently with something wieghty to further loosen the bond after heating , now try to hold the bottom screw with your finger while unscrewing it. Picture what I mean ?
If this doesnt work... I dunno . :)
 
Best post on knife tuning process that I've seen. Just wanted you to know that I was so impressed that I reposted your thread on July 6th to the Combat Carry site that I frequent. If anyone is interested the web site is www.combatcarry.com. Thanks again for all your work.
 
Thanks guys I am going to try the bic and walmart tag trick as i have been spending hours trying to loosen the pivot screw!
 
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jemelby said:
The pivot screw should be the last thing you re-assemble. Drop a dab of blue lock-tite® into the hole and tighten the screw down snug [image 17]. Avoid the red and green lock-tite® as they require heat to break. You now have a limited amount of time to make your final adjustments while the lock-tite® sets. Try to flick the blade open. Chances are it will be fairly tight. Back the screw off in 1/16° or less increments until the blade almost works as fast as you want it too. If you leave it at just-about-right, after a few days of use, everything will settle in nicely, and it will be just-right. One final thing to check before the lock-tite® sets up. You want to ensure that the blade is close to center between the scales [image 18]. If you leave the pivot screw too loose, the pressure from the torsion bar will press the blade up against the torsion bar side liner. In extreme cases, the blade will drag on the liner while opening and closing. Almost all of blades on my Leeks lean a wee bit towards the torsion bar side liner, but none of them drag

leek17.jpg
leek18.jpg
Click to expand...
Holy thread resurrection, Batman. If this is the case (what I bolded above), no wonder I cannot for the life of me get my blade centered on my ZT. It doesn't bother me anymore because I tried everything. On lock up, the blade is centered just fine. Just when the blade is closed, it's not centered.
 
Hey that's a nice one to have float back up to the surface.

Good information, and that's a nice polished G10 Leek.
 
Why? Is the Leek dead? Or do the OP's instructions no longer apply? :confused:

If someone has the pics archived, I'd love to see them.
 
I too would like to see pics, I have a leek that I need to disassemble for some deep-clean TLC and it'd be great to see the polishing steps too.
 
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