Finish Grinding

Joined
Sep 26, 2004
Messages
574
Just curious, after heat treat, what grit do you start grinding and end with before hand sanding.
 
Hmmm, been doing a lot of that lately.
Assuming you're just cleaning up bevels, I've developed a liking for those 'gator belts'. I think it's 400-grit equivalent.
You might want to check out SR Johnson's posts about using cork belts on another forum (Google: "SR Johnson Cork belt tutorial" should bring up a lot of reading for you).
It's a different approach with a lot of merit.
 
I like to etch my blades so i onley take it up to 200-600 depending on how im fealing and how deap of an etch i am going to do.
 
After HT I usually go 220, 400, 600. Then I start my hand sanding process back at 400 to make sure I got all the 400 grit scratches out w/ the 600 belt. The finish the hand sanding at 600.

This may change as I start to use the PBC I just got. I'll likely go to 400 BEFORE HT, so after it would be 400, 600, then same hand sanding.

-d
 
I have searched high and low for the "SR Johnson Cork belt tutorial" with out a s much as a sniff of it.

Can I buy a vowel?

Syn
 
I have a membership at knifenetwork and I can not find the tutorial. I would really like to read this information.
 
im a gator guy too
A300 A100 thenn depending on what finish im after A65 and A45 i need to find some of the A180s to make that 300-100 hop not take as long
 
There are srveral discussions on the cork belt technique there. Just look under forums, then go to SR Johnson forum.
Tell e'm I said howdy! Mike
 
I start at 120 after heat treat, then to 320 and then I hand sand at 400 grit. I am using O-1 and L-6. This grit progression will frutrate all of those useing higher alloy or stainless steels.
Del
 
Since buying those Trizact Gator belts I've used nothing else. These things are great! Some say don't get em wet but I haven't seen a problem there personally. I mean I haven't soaked them but they got wet though. The other thing is that one belt lasts a long long long long long long time! Did I mention how long they last? :D

STR
 
depends what kind of steel

I will sometimes go back to 60 grit after heat treat if I need to thin the blade down more and was too nervouse while the steel was soft enough for me to make a big oops!!

I will take 0-1 to 400 grit and etch

Hell....D2 I go back to 60 grit to thin down if I need to and then stop at 120 grit. I like a course satin finish :) then hit it with a scotch bright belt.
 
speaking of belts, does zirconia really last THAT much longer than Aluminum Oxide? is it worth paying $3.40 for a 80 grit zirconia vs. $1.75 for an Aluminum Oxide? Both are made by Norton. Anyone have an idea? Thanks!
 
speaking of belts, does zirconia really last THAT much longer than Aluminum Oxide? is it worth paying $3.40 for a 80 grit zirconia vs. $1.75 for an Aluminum Oxide? Both are made by Norton. Anyone have an idea? Thanks!

I do 90% of my work with files. In-fact I only have a 4"x36" belt grinder that I use for handles. But I just bought my first order of zirconia belts and can say that they definitely were worth the money.
 
I buy my belts from pops and I just ask for ceramics. After that my grinding got faster and my belts last longer so the extra money is worth it in the long run. For me anyway...
 
That depends on how far you finished the blade before HT. I have asked that sort of question a while ago (not verbatim, but still applies more or less) and I have been finishing to at least 90% done. Meaning if it were going to be a 400 grit satin, I would probably go to 400 on the machine before HT so I could get right back to 400 after HT and not have to exert as much effort to finish. same applies to mirror finish. I worked a blade to 2000 before HT so I only had to work the 2000 after HT.
 
I use 36 grit and then 120 before heat treat.
After, I start at 36 again...120...then 220 then start the hand sanding at 120
The only other belts I use is an ocasional 400 grit and a 60 micron for edges.
Mace
 
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