How To Finish mircata without buffer?

Joined
Feb 18, 2016
Messages
2,209
Any advice? This guy was sanded up to 800 and still looks wonky.
h8e1CD8.jpg


Trying to get it to look more like this
Fv3XBna.jpg


Tried wd 40 and even tru oil with no luck.
I know conventional wisdom is 320 then buff but I don't own a buffer.
And advise?
 
Polish it shoe-shine method with a cloth and polishing compound.
Then apply a coat of paste wax.
 
Alrighty seems I have some work to do then. I dojt have polishing compound or paste wax so I'm gonna have to use tru oil but I'll do what I can.
 
No offense, but it looks like it wasn't sanded well enough at the coarser grits. IMO....micarta and g-10 need to be sanded REALLY well at the lower grits. I feel that 220 is the most crucial stage and it takes longer than you might think.

After a good 220, its pretty easy from there. But if you skimp at 220 and before, old file/belt scratches will jump out in the finished product.

Look close in good light before moving on to the next grit. Some deep scratches can hide really well in some micarta and g-10.

I feel that there are quite a few people that don't finish micarta very well. i4Marc i4Marc isn't one of them.
 
try if you have some lamp oil to use as a lubricant. It helps keep the dust in solution and once you wipe it off ,you can then see the spots that need more work.
 
I fully agree with what has been posted already. Make sure to progress through the grits with great care. Look at the handle from different angles and in different lights to see if you got all the scratches from the previous grit out.
As for finishing without a buffer: very fine steel wool works well
 
No offense, but it looks like it wasn't sanded well enough at the coarser grits. IMO....micarta and g-10 need to be sanded REALLY well at the lower grits. I feel that 220 is the most crucial stage and it takes longer than you might think.

After a good 220, its pretty easy from there. But if you skimp at 220 and before, old file/belt scratches will jump out in the finished product.

Look close in good light before moving on to the next grit. Some deep scratches can hide really well in some micarta and g-10.

I feel that there are quite a few people that don't finish micarta very well. i4Marc i4Marc isn't one of them.


I leaned this the hard way....
 
I have found that black is the hardest color to finish. I'm not sure why. My method is to go through the grits and then finish by buffing with a worn extra fine scotchbrite belt with compound.
VaAObWn.jpg

They don't look like Marc's stuff but it will be shiny.
 
What every body else said.

If micarta looks like it needs more sanding, then it does.

Do not be afraid to go up to 1200 grit or more
 
Dose it with WD 40 and let dry then wipe it down. The color will really pop and the end user can easily reapply
 
Looks good, Justin.


I don't always use TruOil for Micarta. It depends what properties you want from the handle. The oil will fill the pores and give you a more polished feel. Most of it is wiped off anyway. If you want the Micarta to have more grip then use something else or leave the handle at a lower grit finish. In my experience it has not "gummed up" the Micarta. As for whether or not it is "appropriate", I couldn't give a rat's tail. I do what I want based on my own experimentation. I didn't tell anybody that TruOil is the way to do it. I only provided an example of what a handle properly sanded to 800X could look like. Try different things and see what works for you.
 
Last edited:
Any car wax, Johnson's Paste Wax, or neutral paste shoe polish will work fine.

i4Marc- I'm sure it will distress you that I wasn't referring to you. As a matter of fact, I didn't even open your link-and wasn't replying to you, either.
 
Alrighty seems I have some work to do then. I dojt have polishing compound or paste wax so I'm gonna have to use tru oil but I'll do what I can.
Use floor polish or Automoble Wax. They work fine and will fill n and shine any spots on the Micarta..
 
Back
Top