Finished L6 Tomahawk Pics

I am in the processs of finishing my latest design.

I have been destructively testing the tomahawks and although these types of weapons (I feel) are for soft targets (soft skinned animals) they should be robust enough to withstand more rigorous testing. I destroyed four this summer.

I feel that the junction where the haft fits in the head of the tomahawk is one of these weaker points and have addressed this problem along with securing the head from movement and if movement occurs the ability to adjust this movement for corrections.

It's tough, destroying something that you put so much time and effort in but in reality it's the only way to find out what works and what doesn't.

Heat treating is another issue. Since I differentially heat treat with clay (like the japanese) the multiple areas that are hardened simultaneously want to rip the heads apart when quenched. Subsequently, I will quench all tomahawk heads in molten salt. This technique is called marquenching and ausquenching and give charpy notch tests that are about three to four time conventionally quenched metals.

One of the difficulties in quenching using water or oil is overcoming the vapor barrier created during the quenching process and missing the "nose" of the TTT diagram for that particular steel.

http://www.heatbath.com/news/pdf/21/Salt_Bath_Quenching.pdf

Molten salts create no vapor barrier and allow the inside of the heat treated part to catch up with the exterior surface reducing cracking and distortion and as I mentioned above improve toughness.

I have also redesigned the geometry of the head to create maximum damage with minimal effort.

A couple of weeks and I'll have it completed.

The weight about 24 oz maybe a little more with a 19" long haft.

Sorry that I took so long to reply.



Robert
 
Robert -

you're workin' it to get a design that will stand the rigors of extended use in "soft skinned animal" situations...that's damn admirable, especially considering you've blown up 4 hawks so far inthe process...

please keep us up to date - I know I would be VERY interested in securing one of those L6's...NO QUESTION! :D

Salud'
 
Robert,

Very nice work with a new twist on things but all of it is very practical, very nice indeed!

What is the best way to contact you? Or if you would like, PM me or shoot me an e-mail!

Thanks
 
396vette,

I like the bowtie also.

Here's a cut and paste from another forum. I might have posted it before so if I have forgive my forgetfulness.

Will,

I am in the process of redesigning them. I will also probably only make them from L-6 tool bainite steel also along with a modern styled tanto that emulates this http://www.moderntosho.com/sale/TatsuyoshiOsaraku.htm also in L-6 bainite/martensite .

The Achilles heel of all tomahawks is where the hafts are fastened (or forged) to the head. There are makers out there that have one piece forged head/ handles but they stopped short of a full-length tang.

This is one of the areas that I plan to address along with some other issues that I plan to tackle. As a side note making implements likes these one by one gives them a uniqueness unto themselves which I personally like; none of them are the same.

Also when you look at this type of weapon it is similar to our modern day hammers and how the technology has progressed with this implement it should give some insight on what works for this type of “tool” and what doesn’t. What doesn’t work is no longer made.

So to answer your question I am still interested in this subject and have been thoroughly researching, evaluating, and designing.

When I finally have one I’ll post it.

Thanks for the interest and looking.


Robert



Now, having said all the above I feel that if you are swinging a tomahawk and to over or under compensate or are using the haft to block say a rifle barrel trying to hook it or sustaining what could possilbly be catastrophic failure for where the head is connected to the haft and the area below where the head is connected to the haft (five or six inches) the 'hawk should be able to take this abuse and smile.

There are implements out there that are capale of absorbing this kind of energy without failure..... They are called hammers. I am not trying to be a smart ass.. just saying.

Probably the thing that resembles a modern day hammer most in the tomahawk world is the RMJ Shrike. But look at it it looks like a hammer with a hawk head.

What I am in the process of doing is creating a tomhawk that if you under or over compensated your swing and struck in the area right below where the haft meets the head you would still maintain the head and the haft material would remain unblemished along with the integrity of the weapon as a whole.

I have looked and used synthetics (Noryl, Zytel) and thought about using polycarbonate as haft materials. But the weakness of the hawk head is where it is fastened to the haft. Also the cost. Noryl is $44.00/ ft and regular Zytel (I feel) isn't stiff enough. So I will essentially be using the modern hammer model and tweak it for my tactical purposes.

Have you been to Lowes or Farm and Fleet and picked up a titanium claw hammer? Wow! That would ruin someones day.

I am making a tomahawk that I will test by purposely striking the haft in this area and try to create catastrophic failure in this and all other areas and it will also be a full tang.

The head and haft material will fully bainitic L-6 tool steel

Don't get me wrong RMJ's stuff is cool and looks very practical.

But for somene (anyone) to go into a full scale production of this type of heat treat would be to time consuming and costly.

Custom weapons are just that; they ride on the edge of failure and success. In manufacturing that isn't acceptable; you stay in the middle. Businesses (whatever they may be) aren't in the habit creating scrap.

Look at some of the big name japanese sword makers and their success/failure rate. You don't get the best cutting edge technology (no pun intended) without pushing the limits.

I would like to make a tomhawk that parallels the reputation of the L-6 katanas that Mr. Howard Clark makes.

That is what I am in the process of doing.
When I have it done I'll post.

As always,

Respectfully,

Robert
 
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Yo Robert - I'll wait....with a smile on my face :D

Put me on your "wants one" list.....


THANKS!

Venice Will
 
It looks as if you are forming the noryl handles to egg shaped... all the way through the eye. Could you leave the haft round right below and through the eye, then form the eye perfectly round as well, only slightly larger than the noryl haft, with a 3/32 to 1/8 sleeve of steel to protect the noryl from the head?

Those hawks are awesome Brother, and I really appreciate your interest and extensive efforts in the heat treat. I will be keeping my eye on these...
 
I leave the haft in an oval shape to retain the ability to spin it axially with one hand to transition from the spike to the main cutting edge or vice versa it also keeps the 'hawk from twisting it your hand.

I use a tomahawk drift to form the hole in the head and it is a real pain to fit these two geometries together. I have also done what you mentioned about adding a piece of steel tp reinforce the interface of the haft/head. Here is the link: http://s249.photobucket.com/albums/gg205/rbranan/Noryl Steel reinforced haft/?albumview=slideshow

But as per my reply previously I am going to fashion L6 hafts with the L6 heads and G10 handles. I'll keep you posted. Sorry that I took so long to reply. I am a teacher and in the middle of my busy season.

RB
 
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