Finished new handle for old kukri

Bladite, et al:
The butt caps on HI Khukuri's aren't soldered on, they are peened.
What that means is that the butt cap is slid over the end of the tang and then the tang is "peened," not so gently beat over and spread out over the butt cap so as to be made permanent unless the peened area is filed or ground off freeing the butt cap.
 
aproy1101 said:
Bladelite,

What I like about it is that you did it yourself.:cool: That takes the effort. Your second handle/khuk improvement will be better. You will become more fluid with it. Plus now it will be on your mind. It works for me because of its simplicity and functionality. Personally I would never use red oak for anything. Its my least favorite wood. But that is just plain common opinion and has zero value to anyone but me. Its interesting that you mentioned a machette handle. Thats just what it reminded me of. I'd like to hear a performance review. I wanna know how it performs.

I'd also like to see some pics of those wind chimes. That sounds like a helluva project to me.

Good work. :thumbup:
Click to expand...

that link over in cantina about buying blank blades and putting handles on them is cool... there's mention of an out of print book on "how to"; must get a copy of that. yar. someday, i'll have a work shop :)

here are those chimes, they look like chimes. they resonate FOREVER. good hang time on that.



bladite
 
Nice work. You need to get that shop going. Those look really nice.
 
Bladite said:
here are those chimes, they look like chimes. they resonate FOREVER. good hang time on that.
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Very nice. They look similar to some commercial ones I have in my backyard. Did you tune them to a particular scale or are they just random lengths?
 
Howard Wallace said:
Very nice. They look similar to some commercial ones I have in my backyard. Did you tune them to a particular scale or are they just random lengths?
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they are VERY tuned. it's an E-Major scale, from which i took 5 notes to form a pentatonic sequence, and the scale repeats in the next octave up for 3 more notes as well: in the case of 660 Hz, that's E2. the notes i chose worked out iirc as E, F#, G#, B, C#, and then repeat E, F#, G#.

the pipe is standard, everyday home despot cheap electrical conduit 1". once you know the starting length 30" and the starting frequency 660 (measured with a spectral analyzer program on a laptop) you get to use the formula:
L1/L2 = (Freq1/FreQ2)^2
to compute the next length of pipe up (or down) in length for the desired frequency. course, you have to know the frequencies (or compute them) for the notes you want (assuming A=440 Hz), it's a breeze :)
Code: 
the long story short is:
Pipe#  Freq(Hz)     Length(cm)   Node(cm)
1      E2  660.0    76.500       17.136
2      F#  742.5    72.125       16.170
3      G#  825.0    68.424       15.341
4      B2  990.0    62.462       14.004
5      C# 1100.0    59.257       13.258

6      E3 1320.0    54.094       12.128
7      F# 1485.0    51.000       11.434
8      G# 1650.0    48.383       10.487
the Node column is where you drill the holes to support the thing - as that's computed at 22.42% of the length of the pipe to find the least point of vibration node - that means the pipe will resonate the longest that way as opposed to "THUD" :) math is fun!

that's about it :>

bladite
 
Now that just interesting engineering. What do you do for a living?
 
Very interesting. You used a "well tempered" scale? Chimes might give you a chance to break out of our common compromise and get pure tones.

It's interesting that such a simple model works. The vibration of a tube must be fairly complex. No mention of ratio of wall thickness to length or tube diameter, ratio of support hole diameter to length or tube diameter, orientation of support holes to point of percussion, etc.

How does it sound? How close did the model come to predicting the real frequencies as measured by your analyser.
 
aproy1101 said:
Now that just interesting engineering. What do you do for a living?
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vastly underemployed software engineer. lots of specialties, also a very good generalist. the market in the NE is ... poor. hopefully, that'll improve.

have recently learned a lot of new to me tech, installed and adminning various SQL flavors, interface programming with them in perl, SQL itself, and PHP. much good. pad resume. make money. buy knives :)

you?

bladite
 
Electrical design engineer. I wish I could say to move south, but I'm not a software guy and don't know that market. Sometimes I have to program a microcontroller, but I don't particularly like doing it. You know what that code is like. (1,0)

Howard what do you do? "How close did the model come to predicting the real frequencies as measured by your analyser." I'd like to see what an analyzer for sound waves would look like. We use a Vector Network Analyzer here, but its for RF. Could be possible to design a front end/jig kinda thing and do sound.
 
the software i used is from here - it listens via microphone (built in on most laptops) and records samples, then provides graphical insight/etc...
http://www.hibberts.co.uk/index.htm
and it's 100% free. for making/tuning bells as it happens.

there's another program floating around, called "chimes", see: http://www.geocities.com/o2shea2001/
that is helpful with computing scales/frequencies of desired nature.

bladite
 
BrentH said:
There is something about this statement that rings my bell:D

If I may be so bold - finger grooves & a bit of belly will transform the aesthetics & may even improve the grip.

Its yours to play with - and good on you!!!:thumbup:
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Bladite, you did a great job, but Brent's comments above are the exactly the ones I would have made, were I so bold as to critique your excellent work! :D

You've got plenty of wood to work with there, and that would round it out a bit and possibly make it more comfortable.

In any case, nice work, and thanks for sharing it with us.

Norm
 
Yvsa said:
Bladite, et al:
The butt caps on HI Khukuri's aren't soldered on, they are peened.
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Hi Yvsa:

Are the butt caps also epoxied or held on with laha as well as being peened?

I hope to never have to find out, but I'm curious. I epoxy my knife guards, handles, scales, butt caps. It couldn't hurt.
 
Steve Poll said:
Hi Yvsa:

Are the butt caps also epoxied or held on with laha as well as being peened?
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Sure are Steve, or I should maybe say, "In my experience all the ones I have removed had something underneath helping to hold it in place."
The last one I removed was on a full size original Foxy Folly and much to my surprise it had some JB Weld under the cap, not enough to totally bond it on or I would never have been able to remove it but enough that it didn't just *pop* off when I removed the steel that was peened over.
The JB Weld's presence was enough to give me a fright as I first thought that the kami had used it to put the handle on instead of the laha.:eek:
The laha or other epoxy is fine for helping to hold the butt cap in place but the peening is what does the main job and I actually prefer that.
Why?
Well if the peen is all that's holding the butt cap solid and if the butt cap should happen to come loose it's a signal to me that there is the potential for other more serious problems underneath.
By tightening the butt cap with a little judicious peening it tightens the whole handle assembley thereby preventing any possible future loosening ever.:thumbup:
If the peen should happen to come loose, doubtful but, and there is an epoxy of any kind holding it solid then you've lost a potential early warning system.;)
 
i never asked, or found out, but what IS the shape of my ugly khukri called?

mmm

i think that's what started my love of leaf shaped blades

oh, and i always meant "horn" when i said "bone" handle :)

bladite
 
I did a similar rehandle job on my 12 inch Sgt. Khadka last year. The original handle was way too short and although I would have liked to recreate a longer handle that resembled the original, it wasn't practical skill-wise. I am happy with the results, it is now a real user rather than sitting in a drawer.
I think the Sarge would approve.
 
IUKE12 said:
I did a similar rehandle job on my 12 inch Sgt. Khadka last year. The original handle was way too short and although I would have liked to recreate a longer handle that resembled the original, it wasn't practical skill-wise. I am happy with the results, it is now a real user rather than sitting in a drawer.
I think the Sarge would approve.
Click to expand...

hey, i approve :)

if i can get access to a drill press, i will pin mine as well, but right now, the epoxy job i did (glass filled) is STRONG. whoa.

i unfortunately suffered with a very poor bolster, oh wells :)

next time i might take a scandi approach, and do leather discs, or wood, or horn/bone or ... :)

but a machine shop would help. doing everything by hand, was tricky :)

bladite
 
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