I figure since this section is full of knife makers, my questions would best be asked here. I recently bought an unfinished slipjoint. The pivot pins are exposed and need peening, the handle needs to be sanded so that it matches with the bolsters, the blades need bevels put on them, etc. So my question is, how would you finish the knife assuming you don't have fancy equipment to peen the pin or grind the bevels or handle etc. What can I do?
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Finishing an unfinished knife
- Thread starter crbauhs
- Start date
I'm assuming that the knife is not heat treated yet, right? If it were me I'd start by taking the blade back out and cut in the bevel with a file. I don't use my grinder much for folders anyway so your fine there. Peening the pins can be done with a small ball peen hammer. The hardest part for you will probably be the heat treating, especially the spring. but if its a small knife and a simple steel like 10XX, O-1 or even 5160 you can do this with a torch, magnet and olive oil . There is a tutorial on how to make a slip joint folder by Chris Crawford on the net (just google it) that will help you out tremendously. Just substitute his tools with files and sandpaper and you've got it. I've said to many people that you don't need all the fancy equipment to make knives. Grinders and such sure does make it faster but sandpaper and files will work fine. I know a man who has been making knives like this for 30 years. The only thing is what your about to do will surely give you the knifemaker bug. Good luck.
Well here is the actual knife I won.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230412150358&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
It says that everything is done, the springs have good snap, so I am assuming the Heat Treat is done and ready to go. The part I am most worried about is peening the pin. Also the tip of the clip point blade needs to be lowered but I am not sure how to do that either.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=230412150358&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT
It says that everything is done, the springs have good snap, so I am assuming the Heat Treat is done and ready to go. The part I am most worried about is peening the pin. Also the tip of the clip point blade needs to be lowered but I am not sure how to do that either.
Ok. Well all the good stuff is done huh. I'd still follow the peening procedure that Chris Crawford gives. I use a razor blade for a shim but I think Chris uses actual shims, both work fine. Tip: If you use a razor blade just heat it up to red hot a few times and it will soften it up enough to cut a groove with a chainsaw file to fit around the pin. If you don't the razor blade will break trying to cut the groove. The shim thing will make since if you read Chris Crawford's tutorial.
If you file the part of the blade that makes contact with the spring when closed it will lower the tip of the blade. Don't file too much do a little then check.
http://chriscrawfordknives.com/#/slipjoint-pocketknife/4535414914
Here's a link to his tutorial the part your interested starts on page 9.
If you file the part of the blade that makes contact with the spring when closed it will lower the tip of the blade. Don't file too much do a little then check.
http://chriscrawfordknives.com/#/slipjoint-pocketknife/4535414914
Here's a link to his tutorial the part your interested starts on page 9.
What I do is take the "handle" of the razor off which is the piece of metal wrapped around the top so you can hold it. Then like I said before heat it up a few times with a torch or lighter works also to anneal the razor. This leaves a semi soft thin piece of steel. Then if you picture the razor as a rectangle you start on the short end of the rectangle and file a groove long ways down the middle of the blade about half way. Ok this leaves the razor blade in a "U" shape. What you do is slide the just made shim perpendicular to the knife in between the blade and the liner. Go all the way down just short of the spring. The cut out portion of the razor blade should fit around the pin in the bolster. Now when you peen the pin the shim wont allow you to peen the knife so tight it wont open.
Yes if you peen tight it will be very hard to remove the shim. You actually have to remove the shim with a pair of pliers its so tight. The blade should not have any play when removed. Also a little advice, take your time peening! It doesn't take very hard whacks at all. I start by using the flat side of the hammer first and hit the pin square maybe two times on each side. What you want is the pin to swell in the gap of the hole through the bolster. If you don't see that hit it a few more times (better this way than to hit it too hard). Then I take the rounded side of the hammer and tap around the edges to mushroom out the pins. You'll get the hang of it. You ought not to see the pins when all grinded down flush with the bolster.
OK I GET IT!!! Awesome sounds like this will be very fun to do. I was considering maybe keeping it for collections but now I think not. This seems like too much fun to pass up! Thanks for all the info. You really helped me understand it all. I appreciate it alot.