Finishing Micarta

A

Alfazulu

Joined
Mar 24, 2016
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Hey guys, how do you all finish micarta handles? I'm using some natural canvas, and while doing a rough shaping/sanding of a set, I noticed that parts (the bare canvas parts) were showing up all white. I was hoping to get a more uniform color. What am I doing wrong? Is it just because this is super rough? I went up to 800-1000 grit, HOWEVER, I did it VERY quickly and haphazardly.

To be honest, this was literally right before I boxed up this set of 9 blades to send to Peters to be heat treated. I had just gotten in the handle material for a few knives, and wanted to see how one looked. I couldn't bear waiting 3-4 weeks before seeing one with handles on it. Please don't judge the handle! It still has much finishing left. Anyway, is this just because I was going fast and sloppy? Will the white go away once I smooth it out better?

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Of the 9 knives I sent off, one is a present, and two are customs for friends. That leaves six. This one was my second knife I made, and always earmarked for me as an EDC fixed blade. I'm really starting to like it. I think it's going to look great once it's finished. Of the five others, I KNOW I'm keeping at least two more, maybe all five. Jesus, this is a sickness. I should make enough off of the two friends knives to cover the cost of the materials. I may have to sell one more to break even. I can live with that.

I am almost done building my 2x72" belt grinder, and then I'm really going to be going nuts. Had I not run out of welding wire, I might be running it now!:mad:
 
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the white parts are the low spots from previous lower grits. try 320 or 400 until the color is consistent. if you can feel the white spots with your fingernail, go back to 220 until they are gone then go up in grits.
 
it also looks like maybe you've got some gaps around your pins. What size pin are you using and what size drill bit are you using to drill your holes?
 
Also, when you buff, try to do it with white or pink compound. Darker compound can smudge the surfacing fabric bits so that you'll have to re-sand it.
A trick that I've found helps a whole lot with getting a clean finish, is to sand to 600 grit, then rub light oil onto the handle before buffing. That really helps compound to not fully adhere to the surface when it gets streaked on here and there, and subsequently it should wipe off quite easily with a bit more oil.
It is much better to get to a clean 600 grit and only have lightly buff, then to find yourself putting much pressure on the wheel.

Sometimes a quick preliminary buff followed by scrutiny will show up errant scratches that need going over. Often you can just spot-sand carefully and check by buffing again.
 
Huh, I've not come across folks buffing micarta with no compound at all. Certainly I've always used it. Seems like it would promote quicker, glossier results although I've not tried without. What kind of finish are you getting, and with how much effort?

This is a typical amount of shine I'll quickly get at 600 grit then a light buff with pink.

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One of the things with working with Micarta is to contour through the layers of canvas (or linen). If you have flat spots that parallel the canvas and the layer of canvas is exposed you'll get that spotchy look. Hope that makes sense. I had a heck of a time when I first started using black linen Micarta.
 
Thanks for all the replies! Very helpful. Once I get the blades back I'll try it out.

kdogmcg said:
it also looks like maybe you've got some gaps around your pins. What size pin are you using and what size drill bit are you using to drill your holes?
Click to expand...

It's a 1/4" bit and 1/4" steel rod from Lowe's. I'm not going to actually use that rod, since it's not stainless. I just had it laying around and used it to hold on the scales. However, I think my drill press has some runout, because the pins are pretty loose. Or the bit could be trashed. It still cuts well though. Whatever the case, the pins are not a tight fit. I was chalking it up to crappy Lowe's rod stock.

Also, I think it LOOKS like the gaps are larger than they are because the pins are not flush with the surface. They are actually about 1/4" too long for the handle. They were just there to hold it on. When I took the picture, the one on the left is sticking up, and the other two are below the surface.
 
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PSarganis said:
One of the things with working with Micarta is to contour through the layers of canvas (or linen). If you have flat spots that parallel the canvas and the layer of canvas is exposed you'll get that spotchy look. Hope that makes sense. I had a heck of a time when I first started using black linen Micarta.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know what you mean. I think the main reason it looks crappy is just the effort that I put into it. Like I said, I was going really fast. The contouring was of very little concern at that point. I just wanted to see what it was going to look like before I sent the blade off.
 
Alfazulu said:
Thanks for all the replies! Very helpful. Once I get the blades back I'll try it out.



It's a 1/4" bit and 1/4" steel rod from Lowe's. I'm not going to actually use that rod, since it's not stainless. I just had it laying around and used it to hold on the scales. However, I think my drill press has some runout, because the pins are pretty loose. Or the bit could be trashed. It still cuts well though. Whatever the case, the pins are not a tight fit. I was chalking it up to crappy Lowe's rod stock.

Also, I think it LOOKS like the gaps are larger than they are because the pins are not flush with the surface. They are actually about 1/4" too long for the handle. They were just there to hold it on. When I took the picture, the one on the left is sticking up, and the other two are below the surface.
Click to expand...

you will have gaps using a 1/4" drill bit for a 1/4" pin. You should use an "F" size bit. You can get one from usa knifemaker, or you can get one in a tap/ drill bit set for a 5/16" tap. your pins will slide in easily, but no gaps.
 
I have been sealing the fibers in Micarta for years using Teak Oil. After you are satisfied that you have your final sanding done, put a liberal amount of Teak Oil on the Micarta and let it set for about 20-30 minutes. Wipe off the excess and let it dry overnight. Next day, take a clean cloth and give it a brisk rubbing. Presto..... a nice finish that feels great in the hand.
 
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