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finishing sharpening techniqe
- Thread starter vic2367
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the strop
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- Feb 27, 2014
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Yep, a strop.
(Slightly off-topic)
I've been using balsa wood strops for about a week or 2 now, and they have thoroughly impressed me. I use 2 balsa strops, one with green chromium oxide on it, and another with red iron oxide on it. Green first, red last. When it comes to applying compound, less is more.
(Slightly off-topic)
I've been using balsa wood strops for about a week or 2 now, and they have thoroughly impressed me. I use 2 balsa strops, one with green chromium oxide on it, and another with red iron oxide on it. Green first, red last. When it comes to applying compound, less is more.
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- Jan 8, 2014
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Truer words have never been spoken.
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- Jun 4, 2010
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Your finishing step is determined by the edge you're looking for. For most cutting chores you're better off stopping at the 8k (or lower, 2k-4k) stone and stropping on paper. The green compound would make for a "finer" edge, but will also eliminate any of the irregularities left along the edge - better for shaving or carving but loses some draw cutting character.
Just based on abrasive particle size and how it works, the strop with green CrO is finer.
HeavyHanded, would you mind expanding on this?
You're saying it's better to finish stropping on paper instead of say .5 micron diamond spray on basswood followed by leather? What makes it better? Or why is it better? Does the additional stropping steps make it less sharp?
The reason I ask is maybe I'm seeing this myself. I can feel/see the edge is "more refined" but it also seems less sharp. I was thinking it's my stropping technique but I also thought I'm following the stropping advice I've seen in the sticky in this section along with the other threads. The edge cuts into my skin at the slightest pressure as I run my finger but I can also press down the edge with no sense of danger of cutting into the skin. I was considering this may also be because the blade is pretty thick even at 15 degrees.
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This is personal theory based on trial and error. For most tasks you're better off with some irregularities along the cutting line to help get the cutting started with some friction/tearing action. This can be especially useful on a lot of synthetics and fibrous materials. The high points are still submicron, so it isn't "less sharp", just less uniform - so less sharp across the entire edge, but with some additional "cutting" mechanism. Those irregularities tend to make the edge stay functionally sharp for a longer period of time as well, when used for general cutting. The 2k-4k range is great all-around edge finish for the widest variety of chores.
The more uniform the edge gets the more weighted it becomes toward pressure cutting, shaving, chopping. In the case of stropping, keeping the geometry crisp can also be very challenging and not just because the surface is more conformable than a stone, but there's less feedback to accurately gauge the target angle so greater possibility of broadening the edge.
My philosophy is that pressure into the edge is what dulls it. Whatever combination of edge finish and method - coarse/fine, draw/press - gets the job done with the least amount of force applied is the way to get best life and performance.
In the kitchen its the same strategy - utility knives are done to about 1200-2k as they will be used with a lot of drawing and unsupported cuts. My Chefs knife is done up to 6k on a hard strop, so it chops easier but can still draw some. I actually prefer my machetes, hatchets etc to be more polished than my pocket knives - they cut longer with this finish.
Stropping on paper is a great way to cleanup and slightly refine an edge without smoothing it out, at any finish level. If you like the way it cuts right off the stone, stop there - don't use a formula to determine where you should be.
These are generalizations, some steels just don't like to take certain extremes of finish, but in general this strategy is pretty reliable and just about any steel can take and hold a good edge in that 2k-4k range.
Back to the OP, the last step should be at whatever finish performs best for most of the jobs you'll be doing and this takes a little trial and error. And another possible consideration - what can be maintained over the long haul with the least fuss using your available tools.
The more uniform the edge gets the more weighted it becomes toward pressure cutting, shaving, chopping. In the case of stropping, keeping the geometry crisp can also be very challenging and not just because the surface is more conformable than a stone, but there's less feedback to accurately gauge the target angle so greater possibility of broadening the edge.
My philosophy is that pressure into the edge is what dulls it. Whatever combination of edge finish and method - coarse/fine, draw/press - gets the job done with the least amount of force applied is the way to get best life and performance.
In the kitchen its the same strategy - utility knives are done to about 1200-2k as they will be used with a lot of drawing and unsupported cuts. My Chefs knife is done up to 6k on a hard strop, so it chops easier but can still draw some. I actually prefer my machetes, hatchets etc to be more polished than my pocket knives - they cut longer with this finish.
Stropping on paper is a great way to cleanup and slightly refine an edge without smoothing it out, at any finish level. If you like the way it cuts right off the stone, stop there - don't use a formula to determine where you should be.
These are generalizations, some steels just don't like to take certain extremes of finish, but in general this strategy is pretty reliable and just about any steel can take and hold a good edge in that 2k-4k range.
Back to the OP, the last step should be at whatever finish performs best for most of the jobs you'll be doing and this takes a little trial and error. And another possible consideration - what can be maintained over the long haul with the least fuss using your available tools.