Finishing wood scale w/inlay ??

If you're looking for a mirror polish on brass you need to really go up through the grits to minimum of 2500 grit, before polishing. I would start with red compound on a loose wheel then followed by the white. Do not mix compounds on the same wheel. One wheel for each. Buffing compounds go from coarse to fine by color, from black to white. Lots of steps in between.

Sounds like you need to pick up a dremel or other rotary tool, they work great for detail buffing.


-Xander
 
I've never done metal in wood inlay but my idea would be to just use ever finer sandpaper (micromesh goes up to 12.000)
I'd do it dry.
You'll still have some dust in the pores but not as bad as with paste.
I've gotten some dust out of pores with a vacuum cleaner. Not everything but the bulk
 
In dealing with any problem, the solution is to eliminate the source of the problem.

In this case it is the brass and the wood pores. Now, you really can't do anything about the brass, if that is the metal you want to use, but the wood pores are pretty easy to deal with.

Start before the inlay is made, and fill all the pores with a hard and penetrating filler. You can flood the surface with thin CA and let it cure. Do this every day for a few days, and then sand down the surface to remove the excess CA. It should be smooth and pore free.....no pores = no place for the sanding dust to lodge. Also, an impregnated surface will be denser, and resist other contaminants and stains.

Next, after cutting the inlays, and gluing in the pieces, let it cure until all glues are completely hard. A few days will be best.
Then file, or sand using a backing block, to get the leveling started. Once all surfaces are even, use progressively finer files or dry sandpaper to take the materials to their desired finish. I like files up to a number 6 cut, as files carry away the debris ( swarf). Good quality SC paper and the 3M polishing papers ( the colored sheets) will also do an excellent job. Just avoid "rubbing" in the swarf. Have a soft cloth and regularly wipe away the swarf as you work. Using water, or polishing compounds may stain the wood, so avoid them. When the inlay has been taken down by dry sanding to over 1000 grit, or better to 2500 grit, you can carefully buff the metal with a dry buffing cloth. If you power buff, use a low speed buffer, a new soft linen buff, and only a touch of matchless white compound. DON'T overbuff brass.

Realize that highly polished brass, or any soft metal, will show every trace of a scratch every time it is touched. Wipe it off with a cloth or touch it with your fingers - it will have a million micro-scratches. You are better to leave it at 1000-2500 grit and not try to polish it. It will form a lovely patina of color and matte finish in its own time anyway.

Now, here is a tip/trick.
If you used the CA to impregnate the surface and seal it all up, that can be turned to your advantage in cleaning up any stains or dirty spots in the finishing. Use a paper towel whetted with acetone to rub away the stain. A thin layer of the CA will dissolve, and carry away the stain with it. The surface will look untouched after a wipe down. I finish all my handles that have been stabilized or CA finished with a final clean off with a well dampened ( but not soaking wet) cloth and acetone. A final buff up with a clean, dry, soft cotton cloth will make it show table ready.
 
Thanks Bladsmth, I think my expectation of a mirrored finish on the brass is too high. I will seek out some micro mesh sanding paper but can I get them at the local hardware store or is it only sold at a specialty store like auto-body supply ect?

On the CA finish, would I then be locked into using that as my sole finishing material or can I remove all of it with acetone and switch materials? In previous threads on CA finishes Ive read guys get a milky looking topcoat or other issues, possibly due to just the quality of the glue. It's one of the reasons I chose the Tung oil, it looks great and seems I could re-apply down the road. I want my dad to use this one as it's just my first attempt so I'd like to see how well it holds up, though I would like to do one (or many :D ) over the top just for my collection that would just be for display.

When I put the epoxy on for the scales I just used off the shelf 60min but do you guys recommend a stronger commercial product? I did scuff up the mating surfaces and put oil over the lock bar pivot pin to keep that from gluing shut but the epoxy failing was my only other concern with this knife and Durability.

Oh, and Fast14riot I do have a dremel and foredom tx rotary motor. I used the foredom to do the serpentine pattern on the spine and buff out the curves. Also I use the foredom with a plunge router base to route out the inlay channels.
 
The CA is only sealing the pores. The guys getting a "milky" look are trying to build it up like lacquer or varnish ( which is wrong). All traces of CA, except that which is down in the wood, will be sanded away. The wood surface is basically stabilized at that point, and further coatings to protect it would not change the wood. It won't absorb the oil or any stain, as the pores are closed. You will find the final surface of wood sealed with CA to be very smooth and takes a great lustre with just fine sanding and a cloth buffing. Some folks who like the look of a built up oil finish, will still apply oil when all is done, but the results vary a lot since penetration is minimal or nil.
Any dying should be done before the CA applications with alcohol base stain, and let dry for a week.
 
So I fully understand, the CA coating would fill the deep pores but if i did say a light sanding, those deep large pores would remain filled but then would the rest of the wood possibly open up if the CA didnt penitrate too deep this allowing possible oil rub finishing to absorb into the wood? Just wondering if i only did a CA coat and buff would it ever need maintenance down the road? I would hate to mix types and get a blotchy look
 
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