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Fire steels?

I've had mixed results with hacksaw blades. I recommend a stiff striker with a sharp edge with the misch metal type rods. With the LMF just about anything will work, but the sparks aren't as hot or burn as long.

They aren't my favorite either, but they are nice and flat and easily stowed away. I find with hacksaw blade piece it is best to use the flat, non-serrated back edge rather than the serrated teeth. Produces much better sparks that way.
 
I know, for me, I was glad to have Going Gear put out their firesteel blanks. They are a little more costly - but I know what I am getting and I can trust them in the wild.

I like that when I make a firesteel for a family member or whatever.

TF
 
I might mention that I've had my Going Gear fire steel work pretty well with the sharp edge of a broken rock. Now, not all rocks are created equal, but I suspect that any rock that produces a sharp edge when you break it would work. Give it a try.
 
Storl, I'm still waiting for a firesteel with your match container as the handle. Even bigger than the scuba tank container, which would be sweet. Is there anyway this is possible?

Well, the reason that the capsule that I use works is that the part with the keyring is the larger part of the capsule, instead of being the cap like the rest of them. I've got something in the works that has been a project for close to a year now that will fill this need for you. Still at least a couple of months out though. :(

That would be AWESOME!


Do you know what kind of price difference there would be if any? Did you order them at 3"? Just curious if they're any more expensive than just cutting your 6" ones in half?

They would be a little bit cheaper. The price in the Firecaps honestly comes more from the time it takes to make them. Because the capsules were not specifically made for this purpose, it takes a bit of time and effort to make them work and look good. I'm actually going to add all of the 3/8" and 1/2" diameter rods as options, so you'll have a good bit of choices.

I might mention that I've had my Going Gear fire steel work pretty well with the sharp edge of a broken rock. Now, not all rocks are created equal, but I suspect that any rock that produces a sharp edge when you break it would work. Give it a try.

I should make a video of that. That's pretty cool.
 
I should make a video of that. That's pretty cool.

Yeah, you should, because a lot of people don't know that your fire steels will work with anything but steel as a striker. I can't take complete credit for the idea though; someone else on an older thread mentioned that your fire steels would work with almost any sharp edge so, naturally, I just had to give it a try. If someone lost their steel while in the bush (perish the thought) they could simply break a rock and use that with your fire steel to get a fire going.
 
Yeah, you should, because a lot of people don't know that your fire steels will work with anything but steel as a striker. I can't take complete credit for the idea though; someone else on an older thread mentioned that your fire steels would work with almost any sharp edge so, naturally, I just had to give it a try. If someone lost their steel while in the bush (perish the thought) they could simply break a rock and use that with your fire steel to get a fire going.

I've actually been telling customers that for a while now, but I can't say I've ever tried it myself (I know, shame on me). I've used a couple of non-steel strikers before, but never a rock. I'll try that out this weekend.
 
Whatever brand you go with, buy one extra and PRACTICE. As others have noted, they do not all work the same, and can take some getting used to. Not bad, just different.

Then get some clear fingernail polish and coat the one that you are going to depend on with 2 or 3 coats to prevent disintegration, which can happen in high humidity. It scrapes off easily, and is cheap at Walmart.

Then you're good to go.
 
I have several firesteels, this is far from scientific but...

I just spent a few minutes of quality time with all of them and some dryer lint...I used the LMF striker to eliminate at least one variable.

I would rank them them thusly, best to worst:
Going Gear, LMF, No-Name Chinese

Note however, that the 'worst' still works. It just seems to take more strikes on average.

Anybody use the Swedish firesteels?

Are they anygood?

LMF = Light My Fire = Swedish firesteels.

Several posts have refered to them.
 
Whatever brand you go with, buy one extra and PRACTICE. As others have noted, they do not all work the same, and can take some getting used to. Not bad, just different.

Then get some clear fingernail polish and coat the one that you are going to depend on with 2 or 3 coats to prevent disintegration, which can happen in high humidity. It scrapes off easily, and is cheap at Walmart.

Then you're good to go.

A little anecdote.....So, I'm out in my favorite little spot nestled in a park with my wife and we start a tiny little fire on an old downed tree that I often return to for a hand warming and a cup of tea.

I use my LMF, like I normally do and it works great (I did use a bit of Coglans fire stick scrapings to facilitate the flame).

DSC_0041-4.jpg


Wife enjoys the fire,

DSC_0113-2.jpg


She later asks to borrow one of my knives and wants to start playing with the striker.....Ten minutes later, she comes back and gives me the RC-3 that I handed to her. "Where is the sheath?" I ask. "You didn't give me the sheath" she replies. <--- I gave her the sheath. So I look around for the dam thing but can't find it. Damn - I hate that, those RC-3 sheaths are the cats meow too! Well, she also lost my firesteel (good thing I always carry a couple).

I come back to my little spot in the spring, I usually do a little perimeter check to look for my sheath. I know exactly where we were at. So far nothing - one thing about a tan sheath in the prairie - they aren't very visible. However, I did find my LMF firesteel - it has a bright red handle. It sat in the snow and melting snow and then a very wet spring for about 5 mo.

When I found it there was some surface corrision all around the striked area, but the corrosion was only a couple of mm thick. I scraped that off with the spine of my knife. Stuck it in my pack. Works as good as my other ones.

So yes, they corrode, but they don't just completely disappear on you especially while they are in your pack or kit kept dry and away from the elements.
 
The real question Kgd is this: Did you tell your wife that you found the fire steel that SHE lost?
I know when my wife does something like this, I always choose wrong..
 
Salt water will also make them corrode VERY quickly. I had a few that I dripped some sweat on unknowingly, and they had corrosion all over them the next day. Other than that, I never see any corrosion on any of the ones I use or sell, and I don't take any special measures to protect them.
 
i have 2 of th GG wolf steels i use the file on my muliti tool works great and they throw some mean little blobs of molten goodness. for the easyest strike i find strikrforce steel the best for learning but they where down quick. the GG steel is quickly becomeing my favorite. just IMO
and they have great shipping to got mine in about 3 days KUDDOS and thx for your service
 
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