Firearms picture thread

Guess I'll play.....part of the ever changing inventory.
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Yes, that is Rob Leatham.:thumbup:
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100% spec USMC M40A1
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I regret letting this one go in a bad way. Kings Custom "Old School" Colt Commander. :(
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I just bought this little guy the other day...haven't even test fired it yet...stuck at work for a 7 day stretch...which pays for guns...
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Zen,
How's the Leatherwood working for ya? I had an original ART-II once upon a time, complete with the mount. Wish I still had it.
 
m1marty said:
Zen,
How's the Leatherwood working for ya? I had an original ART-II once upon a time, complete with the mount. Wish I still had it.
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Well I didn't have the luxury of government training so this long range stuff has me a bit intimidated...i.e. I don't hit shit yet, haven't figured out how to use it correctly.

But I'm glad a shooter of your caliber appreciates it. I was wondering if I wasted my money. :o
 
zenheretic said:
Well I didn't have the luxury of government training so this long range stuff has me a bit intimidated...i.e. I don't hit shit yet, haven't figured out how to use it correctly.

But I'm glad a shooter of your caliber appreciates it. I was wondering if I wasted my money. :o
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If'n it was me, I'd swap optics on th M1A and AR. The Leupold would be better suited on the M1A IMHO. The Leatherwood is a pretty good system, neat concept. One of the easiest ways to start getting serious in the long range game is to go to one of the free online ballistic programs, plug your data in (ie bullet weight, velocity, temp, elevation etc) write that down on a 3X5 card and take it to the range. It will not be 100% accurate data as ballistics are always changing, but it will get you in the ballpark.
Go to:
http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/calculations/traj_card/traj_card.html
Plug in your date, hit calculate and it gives you a printer friendly card to add to your range box. Way easy program! If you have a small laptop, you can do up to the minute calculations while shooting. Hope that helps a little.
 
m1marty said:
If'n it was me, I'd swap optics on th M1A and AR. The Leupold would be better suited on the M1A IMHO. The Leatherwood is a pretty good system, neat concept. One of the easiest ways to start getting serious in the long range game is to go to one of the free online ballistic programs, plug your data in (ie bullet weight, velocity, temp, elevation etc) write that down on a 3X5 card and take it to the range. It will not be 100% accurate data as ballistics are always changing, but it will get you in the ballpark.
Go to:
http://www.eskimo.com/~jbm/calculations/traj_card/traj_card.html
Plug in your date, hit calculate and it gives you a printer friendly card to add to your range box. Way easy program! If you have a small laptop, you can do up to the minute calculations while shooting. Hope that helps a little.
Click to expand...

Cool thanks. I wouldn't think switching the optics would be a good thing. Both scopes are supposed to be calibrated to their respective calibers...especially the Leupold. But I'll double check.

Since I have the ear (eyes) of a trained expert...I'm having trouble with my flattop upper on the AR. Here is what happens: shoot round, round ejects, new round in but hammer didn't lock all the way back. It apparently follows the bolt forward and lightly taps the primer. Not hard enough to cause it to fire but hard enough to dimple the primer. Kind of a bulkly and odd single fire set up. :grumpy: My friend is guessing there is a gas tube leak robbing me of enough gas to force the bolt all the way back. Does that sound like a reasonable diagnosis?

At first I had a fixed stock on it and I figured it was the stock spring. So I switched in my folding stock (with a proven spring) and yet still have the same problem. :(
 
bladefixation2 said:
I love that classic 6 shooter zen
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Thanks Bladefix. It is an Italian clone of a American Civil War Navy pistol in .44 blackpowder caliber. My step grandfather was a master armsmith/machinist (he hand built many firearms) who worked it over and made more exact to the original revolver. He even made and hand checkered the grips. :cool:

He was quite the guy for that sort of thing.
 
Here are just a couple of my favourite guns. I don't have a camera now, so I can't take decent pics of the rest. This is of my Smith and Wesson 686 and my Springfield Armory XD .40 Tactical.

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Ah hell, let's throw in a crappy pic of my "assault rifle" while I'm at it ... this is a CZH2003 Sport. Oooh, doesn't that sound sporting?

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zenheretic said:
Cool thanks. I wouldn't think switching the optics would be a good thing. Both scopes are supposed to be calibrated to their respective calibers...especially the Leupold. But I'll double check.

Since I have the ear (eyes) of a trained expert...I'm having trouble with my flattop upper on the AR. Here is what happens: shoot round, round ejects, new round in but hammer didn't lock all the way back. It apparently follows the bolt forward and lightly taps the primer. Not hard enough to cause it to fire but hard enough to dimple the primer. Kind of a bulkly and odd single fire set up. :grumpy: My friend is guessing there is a gas tube leak robbing me of enough gas to force the bolt all the way back. Does that sound like a reasonable diagnosis?

At first I had a fixed stock on it and I figured it was the stock spring. So I switched in my folding stock (with a proven spring) and yet still have the same problem. :(
Click to expand...
Didn't notice the "cam" on the Leupold. Oops. The click values are only a rough guideline anyhow, poa vs poi is very dependant on many external things. Figure out your particular load and use a strip of tape, or a new knob from kenton industries if you don't want to remember what your data is. The Leatherwood I thought could be used on anything? Mebbe I was wrong?
As far as the AR, it does sound like maybe you aren't getting enough gas to push the bolt back all the way. I have used brake cleaner (with the tube) to clean the gas tube. Will the bolt go back far enough to lock the hammer when you pull the charging handle? Will the hammer stay back if you drop the bolt? (lock the bolt to the rear, MAKE SURE THE RIFLE IS EMPTY, and drop the bolt on an empty chamber. Don't "ride" it forward w/ the CH) Enough dirt/grime/crud on the hammer hook area can cause that as well as the bolt binding up (spring too long?) What loads are you shooting? Good factory loads? My advice? Don't shoot it until you get it figured out. A hammer that follows will eventualy make that thing dump a mag with a quickness. That is not safe, nor a good idea.;)
Hope that helps a little.
 
Really nice collections, Im about to purchase my first pistol(just turned 21), maybe ill model it for you guys in the near future.
 
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