Firesteel Education Needed

Triquetra

Triquetra

Joined
Mar 7, 2002
Messages
759
I'm in need of a little firesteel education. I hate to judge something as good or bad without a good basis. I like to make firesteels out of antler and have always gotten the blanks from Ben's. I do have a couple of premade ones from LIght My Fire. I know that Ben's mentions Chinese knockoffs but I don't know what that means or how they perform. I recently ordered about 10 blanks from Going Gear. They seem a lot different. Softer and harder to get a spark and when scraped the metal is a lot more silver looking. I can get a shower of sparks from the others even with a short stroke. I learned that with a longer faster stroke that I can get sparks from those from Going Gear. When I use the groved metal striker that came with the LMF it leaves deeper groves in those from Going Gear than with the others. I did notice though that the material tends to curl off more and even though there's not the big shower of sparks it seems to make larger particals that seem burn longer. That might be an advantage in some situations. I believe that those from Ben's and LMF might last longer but in an emergency situation you don't necessarily need something that will last forever. I would appreciate any comments or advice or what is preferable. I would also like to know what is the best metal for creating a spark. I can't really get a spark out of any of my pocket knives, Old Hickory knives, or anything else that I tried but the scraper that came with the LMF firesteel. I've heard that hacksaw blades do good but haven't tried one yet.
 
you probably have got two different kinds of fire steels. misch metal (probably the ones from going gear) and ferocium (like the LMF). there are different techniques and advantages to both.
 
Right BF, he got the 2 types and needs to figure out the methods. The GG ones are mischmetal, and they need a harder more determined stroke to get them to spark. The LMF and presume same from Bens are ferrocium and they are a harder material that likes a light scrape with a sharp edge. Use an old hacksaw blade cut down. You don't need to use the side with teeth either. Keep your LMF striker with your Bens/LMF rods so you have that good to go. Either find or buy a hacksaw blade to go with your Going Gear rods. A knife spine that is squared off will be best to fire off the GG's.
 
Yeah, mine take a bit more effort to get going, but I think that extra effort is well worth the much longer burning sparks. Once you get the technique down, you will never have trouble again. Here is a video I made that might help:

[youtube]oS8TJAXC9zQ[/youtube]
 
Thanks for the info. That's why I like to have all of the facts before I open my mouth. As long as I've been on this forum I didn't know that there were different materials for firesteels. I'll watch the video and see if I can improve my technique with these new ones. It seems like they might do better in wet conditions.
 
The miche types seem to produce longer burning and hotter sparks that will set ablaze tinders that a regular firesteel can't. The disadvantage of them is that they require a faster and harder stroke to get the sparks. This means that you have less control in terms of aiming your sparks towards your tinder pile and the technique doesn't work as well with the 'hold the striker still and draw back the firesteel' technique. The fact that you can back away further and provide a general aim of the sparks to your tinder compensates for this. As per storl's video, he lights in PJCB while standing up. I think it is a bit of practice to figure out how to use each properly.

LMFs are nice because you can get in real close and used controlled sweeps right at the level of the tinder. This could be particularly handy on windy days where you are trying to build your fire in a sheltered spot. Mische ones are probably better when you don't have idealized tinder. I've been stumped many times by natural tinders using my LMF and I'm curious to see how much range extension in tinder quality can be had by using a mische metal one.

Last little disadvantage of the mische metals is the longer burning sparks can go stray and burn holes in your clothes, particularly nylon/gortex gear. This seems like less of a problem with LMF and exacerbated with mische because of the combination for stronger, less controlled strokes plus hotter/longer burning sparks.

Strikers - the awl of your SAK works very well. The spine of the saw blade on both your sak or leatherman. Hacksaw as mentioned. I toss those LMF strikers right out. Some knives work great. It really depends on how square the spine is. Or you can get one of the kit knives made by several of the makers over here. Here is my breeden warncliff striker made specifically for striking. The chisel grind on one side keeps the edge a very long time and it is very good at striking.

Oh and believe it or not. That piece of mussel shell next to the bottom of the LMF. I was able to spark my LMF with the mussel shell!

DSC_0004-35.jpg
 
When I tried to use the squared off edge of my pocket knife it just peeled off curls. It was ATS 34. I'll try my sak & hacksaw blade when I get home. Does the stiker need to be hard, soft, high carbon, stainless.... Which type of FS do most of u prefer. I was making these for some boys about 12. Seems like the ferrocium would be easier for them to use.
 
kgd said:
Last little disadvantage of the mische metals is the longer burning sparks can go stray and burn holes in your clothes, particularly nylon/gortex gear. This seems like less of a problem with LMF and exacerbated with mische because of the combination for stronger, less controlled strokes plus hotter/longer burning sparks.
Click to expand...

Or your nicely polished wooden floor - ask me how I know this :o ... The wife still hasn't spotted it though :eek:


kgd said:
Oh and believe it or not. That piece of mussel shell next to the bottom of the LMF. I was able to spark my LMF with the mussel shell!
Click to expand...

Brilliant to see someone showing that you don't need a metal striker! Well done :thumbup: :thumbup:
 
Triquetra said:
When I tried to use the squared off edge of my pocket knife it just peeled off curls. It was ATS 34. I'll try my sak & hacksaw blade when I get home. Does the stiker need to be hard, soft, high carbon, stainless.... Which type of FS do most of u prefer. I was making these for some boys about 12. Seems like the ferrocium would be easier for them to use.
Click to expand...

Hard and sharp edged is all that's needed. Doesn't matter what material as long as it meets those two criteria.

If your knife spine managed to scrape curls of material off, it probably meets them.

I found the same when I first tried that type of rod - I was previously used to the standard Light My Fire type which are easier to make work. I've never had a problem lighting assorted tinder with them.

The harder rods are harder to use (in my opinion) than the softer LMF types. You need a significantly stronger and faster scrape to ignite the shavings, but as others have said they then burn for longer.

Personally, I prefer the softer, easier variety but I suppose if the tinder was pretty poor, the harder rods might be better.

For beginners, I would recommend the softer variety like LMF.
 
When striking a firesteel, strike in one spot. Continuous striking in one spot creates a wide, flat striking surface. This creates a larger surface area being struck, hence, more hot sparks per strike.

I read about a Corona carbide tipped machete sharpening tool on some guy's blog. I found one at Lowe's. These tools are by far and away the best strikers out there. Once you create the striking flat on the ferro rod, using the Corona tool, you have an effective fire starter and a good nighttime signaling device.
 
'Make' the boys some of the little Boy Scout steels that you can buy. They work great and are priced right, and work MUCH easier than the GG FS's IMO/E. I would use the GG FS's in the Pacific NW and wet areas like the tropics; because they throw off actual pieces of metal burning which should help ignite wet tinder better than the LMF IMO.
 
Ok this has pretty much been covered however if it helps. I use a pencil sharpener to make tinder ( we don't get fat wood like you blokes seem to have everywhere.) any standing dead wood trim, it down to fit inside the sharpener a couple minutes turning makes a hat full of tinder that I can normally light from a LMF.
I have squared off the back on some of my knives with a file to make them strike better
Carl
 
Ok this has pretty much been covered however if it helps. I use a pencil sharpener to make tinder ( we don't get fat wood like you blokes seem to have everywhere.) any standing dead wood trim, it down to fit inside the sharpener a couple minutes turning makes a hat full of tinder that I can normally light from a LMF.
I have squared off the back on some of my knives with a file to make them strike better
Carl
 
storl said:
Yeah, mine take a bit more effort to get going, but I think that extra effort is well worth the much longer burning sparks. Once you get the technique down, you will never have trouble again.
Click to expand...


Used one of yours on a recent backpacking trip.:thumbup: I used a piece of a hacksaw blade, but the side of the file on my Leatherman works too. You definitely need to push harder, but the sparks burn much longer.
 
I have a LMF steel I'm learning to use and just ordered 5 Misch steel's from Going Gear to try out and give to friends to try. I carry a folder and SOG Powerlock where ever I go. Never thought to use the All or File on the SOG with my LMF. I'm going to go out side in a few minutes and try it out. :) Normally I use the blade on my Izula or BK-11 to get the LMF to spark.

BTW I carry some Lighter fluid in those little 1/2oz Tobasco Sause jars in my pack. A little of that on some tinder really helps get things going. Got to try the Vasaline socked cotton balls..

Heber
 
I recently got one of the 1/2" by 6" firesteels from GG. Works like a charm. It takes a bit more to get going then the ferro rods, but once it sparks you get a nice shower.

Main difference is that with the ferro rods you get a wide range from light scraping = light sparking to heavy scraping = lots of sparks. The sparks are a bit weak imo though. Never really got much to light.

The misch rods will light napkins, charcloth, etc easily and reliably. Easy to carry, not messy to use or setup, etc. You do have to have a sharp edge though. I have a Landi PSK that works wonders. The top edge is squared off and scrapes showers of sparks everywhere.

Oh, that note about being careful cause it'll burn stuff? Very relevant. I was playing with mine (just got it) in a carpeted room and the molten balls singed a good patch of carpet.
 
Josh K said:
Oh, that note about being careful cause it'll burn stuff? Very relevant. I was playing with mine (just got it) in a carpeted room and the molten balls singed a good patch of carpet.
Click to expand...
I'm glad I'm not the only one.:o
 
Josh K said:
Oh, that note about being careful cause it'll burn stuff? Very relevant. I was playing with mine (just got it) in a carpeted room and the molten balls singed a good patch of carpet.
Click to expand...

It's possible that I have lit my hardwood floors on fire a time or two. :o
 
Just got back from playing with my LMF fire steel. Was finally able to light toilet paper with it. Took a little practice but once I figured it out, it was easy. I also tried putting a few drops of lighter fluid on the paper and that lit right up. :) Can't wait for my Misch rods to arive so I can try them out, safely of course. ;)

Heber
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top