Firesteel notch

tueller

tueller

Basic Member
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Mar 16, 2012
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I am thinking of adding a firesteel notch to atleast my larger beckers first and then maybe even all of them. I usually use standard 3/8's firesteels. I am having trouble deciding on using the spine of the blade or making the small choil a little bigger for this.

So what do you guys think? What functions better? Would either location weaken the structure? Do you have pics of either mods? How do you recommend doing it... Just a 3/8's circular file? I was going to start with the bk2, then the bk9. If all goes well, maybe the 16 and 14... Or do you guys think those are to small?

I like the spine location because it would not take away from the blade edge length but I like the choil idea because I think it looks better and I could keep the edge facing away from me when using it, making it safer. Thoughts, concerns, advice? Thanks!
 
All my firesteels came with a striker so I use that. Bits of hacksaw blades make good strikers too. If you just square up the spine and give it a good hard 90 degree edge it will strike a steel fine and also help make tinder. To me the edge at the base of the blade near the handle is the most important because it's where you do all your small tasks. So if you're dead set on a notch, put it on the spine.
 
I put a firesteel notch on my 16 on the spine just ahead of the jimping. Used a 3/8" chainsaw file I believe. Not the best job I've done but worked great for me this summer. No safety concerns for me as I always try to keep the knife stationary and move the firesteel. I prefer the spine because you have more metal there to work with; probably just a mental thing but I like having more metal underneath when cutting/filing into a blade. I'll grab some pics later on tonight.
 
For the spine, just square it up and be done with it. Like bigghoss said, this method also works a lot like a card scraper (woodworking tool) for making tinder. No real need for a notch. I opened up the choil on my 9, 'cause it seemed like a good spot, I wanted to see if it would work and I don't plan on using that knife for a lot of fine work (still can anyway); it functions fine, throws plenty of sparks. I also was using a slightly smaller firesteel, so I didn't remove a lot of steel from the knife. I have yet to see if the new Gobspark will fit/work. For comparison, I've got one of those LightMyFire Moras with the removable firesteel nested in the handle, and that short little rod and the thin SS blade throws a ton of sparks.
 
DSCN5901.jpg


Here's a pic of mine; like I said not my best work. I tried going too fast and the file ended up rounding the front of the notch. Still works great though, throws gobs of sparks with my firesteel.
 
Thx Guys,

Bigghoss, I hear you on the striker but I don't like carrying them. My firesteel is usually in a loop on my sheath and a striker is just one more thing to carry, snag on things and/or make a rattling noise if not carefully kept away from other hard materials (ie, kydex, firesteel, etc). Good point about using the spine for both firesteel and tinder making. I don't think the loss of the edge would be an issue for me though because there is already approximately a 1/4" choil so making it 3/8" would only be sacrificing 1/8" of blade length.

Aikiguy, Thx for the pic. That is exactly what I was thinking if I go with the spine. Just ahead of jimping (or non-jimped thumb area). I am leaning towards that location now. Not sure what you meant about it being messy. Looks fine to me.

GraniteStateofmind, what do you mean squaring off the spine? The beckers' spines already look square to me and since they are stripped, there is no coating issues. I would just add a notch so I always use the same spot and to stop the possibility of side-to-side movement/slippage.

Thx again and PICTURES are helpful if there are more out there. I would like to hear from someone that tried the choil idea.
 
I agree with most of what has been said. I use my strikers whenever possible. But I am in the process of making sure all of my spines can throw sparks too. I started with my ESEE 3 and filed a notch right in the middle of the jimping. It throws a huge shower of sparks from even the cheap firesteels and doesnt make a difference in feel or grip when my thumb is on the jimping while I am using the knife- I also considered filing in the choil area but decided it was not a good idea---I didnt want my fingers that close to the blade if they didnt have to be. If you consider for a second that there might be a possibility of having to use a firesteel and your knife to make a fire to stay alive, than you will agree that it may not be the best idea to have it on the choil. You will be very cold and most likely shaking and having to put your hand near your blade is not a good idea. JMHO---heres a shot of my 3--sorry I havent done it to my Beckers yet so no pics-----

20131121_122802_zpsd2304863.jpg
 
Thx OutdoorsFamilyMan4. Nice looking Esee and great points about the safety concerns. Def leaning towards using the spine.
 
GraniteStateofmind, what do you mean squaring off the spine? The beckers' spines already look square to me and since they are stripped, there is no coating issues. I would just add a notch so I always use the same spot and to stop the possibility of side-to-side movement/slippage.
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What I mean is that the spine needs to have sharp 90° edge; even with the coating removed the edge is too rounded. Bigghoss said the same:
If you just square up the spine and give it a good hard 90 degree edge it will strike a steel fine and also help make tinder.
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Even if you only clean up part of it, it's easier to do and gives you a little more functionality with the tinder making.
 
granitestateofmind said:
What I mean is that the spine needs to have sharp 90° edge; even with the coating removed the edge is too rounded. Bigghoss said the same: Even if you only clean up part of it, it's easier to do and gives you a little more functionality with the tinder making.
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Got it thx. yah, and keep it 90. Do you just use a file to square it off occasionally?
 
tueller said:
Got it thx. yah, and keep it 90. Do you just use a file to square it off occasionally?
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That would be a question best put to others. I did my 2 on a bench grinder and haven't had the need to redo it. I shouldn't think so, ferrocerium is pretty soft.
 
Yeah what granite said. Whether you go with a flat section or a notch, the mechanism is still the same. The steel of the knife is much harder than the firesteel; once you have a nice sharp edge on the spine (or even a slight burr), you shouldn't have any problems getting sparks.
 
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