Firesteel question

Chinpo

Chinpo

Joined
Aug 25, 2007
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1,137
I've used The LMF firesteels a lot and I think I've always used the striker that comes with them. Recently I got a matching steel for my Bravo-1 and I went out last weekend and used the spine of my B-1 to spark it.
I just noticed that the spine of the knife is now scratched up a lot. Big grey scratches. This knife is a user, but I'm just wondering if that's the norm.
 
Chinpo,

Yes you will get scratches and streaks from the firesteel. The Firesteel is softer, so it will not harm your knife. It will only be cosmetic.......:D And it gives character to your knife.

Nice catch that Bravo-1!
CZ
 
Cool. Thanks cz. I've had the Bravo for a while and it's pretty scratched up already:D I knew that the firesteel was softer than the knife and that it was pieces of the firesteel making the sparks. I wasn't too worried, just surprised at how many marks 2 or 3 strikes on the steel left (PBJ balls and my great skill;)) left.
 
no worries

here's the spine on my PSK after a few strikes
MallorysWedding075.jpg




**edit

i rubbed the spine on a piece of hardwood & it's almost smooth now
 
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You can remove those discolorations (heat) and scratches with a scotchbrite pad and some WD 40. The knife is satin anyway, so this won't hurt it. Sand the blade from spine to edge, so the sanding scratches are in the correct direction. Go lightly over the emblem or you'll remove it.

Good as new.
 
Is there any way the heat from a firesteel can negatively affect the temper on a thin blade? The heat from the sparks (3000 degrees) is way higher than temper temperature. If the heat is high enough to discolor the surface of the steel... does it get hot enough all the way through to affect performance?

I used the spine of one of my Spydercos to spark off of a firesteel, and noticed the discoloration on both sides of the blade. I wondered if this might screw up the temper. The Light My Fire/ Tool Logic knife is designed to scrape from the rear of the blade- could this raise the temperature of the steel along the thin edge high enough to mess with things?

Here's an illustration from their website:

http://lightmyfireusa.com/firesteelknife.html
 
A small piece of hacksaw blade works well. No worries about blade discoloration. The temper is not affected by the sparks since they are not in contact with the blade long enough to make a difference.
 
moonwilson,
i asked the same question once and it was pointed out to me that the discoloration is just schmutz from the firesteel (it will wipe off with a damp cloth) and that becuase the sparks are not in contact with the blade for more than a fraction of a second, they aren't harmful.
 
I was also told that they wouldn't affect the blade, because there is a lot of steel and its a heat sink. But I wonder if a spark happened to hit the very edge whether it would be bad.
 
Fiddleback said:
I was also told that they wouldn't affect the blade, because there is a lot of steel and its a heat sink. But I wonder if a spark happened to hit the very edge whether it would be bad.
Click to expand...

I think theoretically it would, Andy... but highly unlikely.... Even on the thin edge it would have to be a freakishly long burning spark to transfer enough heat to draw back the hardness. (I can cast a shower of sparks on my bare hand with no burning other than the ones that land in the webbing of my fingers, and even then, no visable burns.) The chances would obviously increase if you were using the edge to strike with (sometimes the sparks stick to the striker).... which I strongly suggest you DON'T.
 
Yea, that makes sense, and I agree the scenario is highly unlikely.
 
Then again - the ratcutlery team often recommend using a portion of the blade to firesteel. Jeff simply indicates - if you need a fire, why screw around with the spine when the blade is a sure to work. He indicates that this isn't so harmful on the blade and if you use the same section for firesteeling you can sharpen it up later. Of course - this is a user blade mentality. I'm sure your knife would last as long, even if the sparks don't get it, you will be doing a lot of sharpening of your edge.

My solution - whenever I see one of those little $1 knives at the counter in a store, I buy 2 or 3 of 'em. They have this semi-dull blade that works great, much better then included striker and I find more comfortable to use than a piece of hacksaw.
 
kgd said:
Then again - the ratcutlery team often recommend using a portion of the blade to firesteel. Jeff simply indicates - if you need a fire, why screw around with the spine when the blade is a sure to work. He indicates that this isn't so harmful on the blade and if you use the same section for firesteeling you can sharpen it up later. Of course - this is a user blade mentality. I'm sure your knife would last as long, even if the sparks don't get it, you will be doing a lot of sharpening of your edge.
Click to expand...

I wouldn't consider it "screwing around". I would hope that we've actually tried striking with the spine PRIOR to adding it to your kit. Some knives do not have a good spine for striking... Moras are an example... but you can square a spine up with a few minutes on a stone or a few seconds on a grinder/sander. Save your edge for cutting... of course you would use it as a last resort but don't dull your edge for the sake of convenience!

Rick
 
Why would you risk the edge of your knife in a bad situation? I wouldn't.
 
I use the edge of a sak blade sometimes and there isn't any dulling at all. You just have to remember to wipe off any discoloration with your hand/jeans right away or it becomes hard to take off after a while.
 
I have heard some people suggest the reamer of a SAK Farmer. Has anyone had success with this method?
Ira
 
moonwilson said:
Is there any way the heat from a firesteel can negatively affect the temper on a thin blade? The heat from the sparks (3000 degrees) is way higher than temper temperature. If the heat is high enough to discolor the surface of the steel... does it get hot enough all the way through to affect performance?

The temperature would only affect the molecules on the surface if even that. The whole knife depending on the composition of the steel would have to be elevated to a very high temperature for a period of time to affect the temper.
Click to expand...
 
hillst1 said:
A small piece of hacksaw blade works well......./QUOTE]

I like using a piece of hacksaw blade because it's also handy to scrape off dry inner bark and it does a neat job of leaving it in a fiberous state. Depending on what you're wearing and how big a "hurt" you're in, it can also raise a nice little ball of lint off a shirt tail. I test the spines of my knives to make sure they'll do it if I'm ever in a pickle and don't have a hacksaw blade.

Sharp Eye said:
I have heard some people suggest the reamer of a SAK Farmer. Has anyone had success with this method?
Ira
Click to expand...

Oh, buddy! Yeah, the reamer blade throws some sparks! It uses up he firesteel quicker but I've not worn one out yet.
Click to expand...
 
I seriously doubt any harm could come to the edge that a sharpening stone and sand paper couldn't fix

DSCF0035.jpg


If you can see it on this pic, the serrated blade on my LM ST has been used as a striker for at least 3-4 years. I have sharpen it up once or twice with out a problem.

That said, I wouldn't use the edge of my only blade.
 
Sharp Eye said:
I have heard some people suggest the reamer of a SAK Farmer. Has anyone had success with this method?
Ira
Click to expand...

Try with the sipne of the saw blade.It's much better!
I'm a big fan of the hacksaw blade-it works percekt for me. :)
I've also had noticed something.My Ka-Bar USMC and Mora 2000 have gotten some scratches from striking firesteel.Both are hardened at around 56 HRC.
My Buck 110 is hardened to 59 HRC and got no scratches at all :cool:
So i thing i'ts important,how hard the steel is.
 
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