First Attempt at a Wa Handle- Questions

[AlaskanHunter]

What is a good height for a wa handle? Do you make them symmetrical width-to-height? If not, how wide? How much taper do you use from front to back?
Thanks!

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

It varies. I like them with a H:W ratio of about 4:3. Around 1" high and 3/4" wide for a smaller blade handle to 1.25" high and 1" wide on a full size knife. The simplest way is to start with a rectangle shape in the wood blank and find what seems the right size, then knock off the corners.

I also occasionally add a little taper from the butt to front ... not much, but just enough to add some grip control.

 

[AlaskanHunter]

Thank you Mr. Apelt! You have such a wealth of knowledge on just about every aspect of knifemaking, and you share it with the craftsman and novice alike. For that I am grateful!

 

[jdm61]

I was looking at this and one number that I found for taper on the Chefs Knife to Go website were like 2mm per side all around. They sell replacement handles and have the dimensions listed for all three sizes. I would also suggest checking out some of the tutorials on using a core dowel and registration pins.

 

[AlaskanHunter]

I was looking at this and one number that I found for taper on the Chefs Knife to Go website were like 2mm per side all around. They sell replacement handles and have the dimensions listed for all three sizes. I would also suggest checking out some of the tutorials on using a core dowel and registration pins.

I have been searching the WIPs and tutorials; great information, but none that I've found so far give an idea as to thickness and height for the handle. I don't want to start with too small of a handle, but a few of the pieces of wood that I'm contemplating using are very close to Mr. Apelt's recommended size. I need to measure the wood I have, if it's too close (no room for mistakes to be repaired) then I'll opt for a different piece of wood. Depending on the piece I use, I'll either opt for a dowel core or possibly a frame handle-ish sort of design. The latter is probably quite unorthodox (and definitely not a traditional wa handle), but if I can pull it off, I think it'll look pretty snappy.

 

[jdm61]

I have been searching the WIPs and tutorials; great information, but none that I've found so far give an idea as to thickness and height for the handle. I don't want to start with too small of a handle, but a few of the pieces of wood that I'm contemplating using are very close to Mr. Apelt's recommended size. I need to measure the wood I have, if it's too close (no room for mistakes to be repaired) then I'll opt for a different piece of wood. Depending on the piece I use, I'll either opt for a dowel core or possibly a frame handle-ish sort of design. The latter is probably quite unorthodox (and definitely not a traditional wa handle), but if I can pull it off, I think it'll look pretty snappy.

Murray Carter has a basic "frame" handle tutorial posted. He basically uses a tang thickness spacer as the "frame" with a solid one piece ferule. I have seen other guys using multi layer spacers.
Like I said, go the chefknivestogo.com and check out their listing for the maple and wenge replacement handles and such. They list the dimensions for all three sizes.

 

[boy&hisdogs]

Make a few octagons out of scrap/cheap wood and see what feels good. It's actually two birds with one stone, because you also get to practice your octagon grinding technique. It's not as easy as it looks, at least not free hand. I always have to start way over-sized because I end up putting too much pressure on one end and then the edges aren't parallel. I just can't get all the sides to match up quite right to make the "taper" look intentional so I'll be sticking to straight wa handles in the near future.

I just moved and haven't made a knife in a while, but I have made a few octagon handles and failed at making several more. I'm going to either make some sort of jig or use a router table for my next one.

I've done the tang hole two different ways. On the first one I started with two wood scales and chiseled out a tang shaped channel in one side, then glued them together. This works fairly well with really straight grained wood (I used walnut) but the seam might be too noticeable in other materials.

Another way I've done it, and a seemingly popular one with the pros is to drill a hole down the center of the handle, then split a dowel to fill the extra round space on the sides of your rectangular tang. Then you just fit the ferrule hole carefully and it'll cover up the dowel hole.

This is my latest wa handle knife, done using the dowel method. Walnut and brass handle, 1/16" 1075 blade about 3.5" long with an ever-so-slightly recurved edge that bites really nicely. I did this handle taller-than-wide, which is nice on a smaller knife but on a big knife I would want an equilateral octagon.

 

[jdm61]

Do the tapers when it is still 4 sided and do the "bevels" straight. That how most of the wa handles you see are done. Try 2mm of taper per side.

 

[Salem Straub]

I'd echo most of what's said here, 1" x 3/4" is a decent size for many, at the butt, then tapering slightly (I sometimes use 1/32" per side, both height and width) to the front. The taper should be enough to make the handle more graceful, just to a noticeable degree but not more. It's easy to give them too much taper and that looks bad. I like to start with a block ground flat and clean to the major dimensions of the taper (at the butt) and then use a digital micrometer to scribe lines laying out the taper on the block, to grind to.

 

[JeffreyFogleboch]

look at some japanese blades and find the measurements. Use them as a guideline and make sure it looks right on your blade. Take a lot of time to notice the subtle features that make them look right (such as taper).

-Jeff

 

[jdm61]

look at some japanese blades and find the measurements. Use them as a guideline and make sure it looks right on your blade. Take a lot of time to notice the subtle features that make them look right (such as taper).

-Jeff

Even easier. Go on the chef knives to go website. They list the dimensions for all three sizes of their aftermarket wa handles.

 

[comet_sharp]

Here are a few if my wa handles. I shape the sides by eye until it looks right/feels right for each knife and then cut in facets. I usually set my calipers for 4-5.5mm and crosshatch the top and bottom of the block to scribe guides for the facets. Imo wa handles are all about feeling amd balancing the knife and there isnt really a set measurement. Most japanese handles are quite large imo. 2mm taper butt to bolster/ferrule is about the sweet spot though and 110-145mn length unless the knife is very large. Most my height/width measurements are close ti what Stacy said. I make mine kind of egg shaped as it feels best in hand.
-Trey