First attempt at knifemaking - limited tools - please advise!

Joined
Aug 9, 2007
Messages
761
Howdy folks, here's a random attempt at enlightenment from an aspiring cutler in Vancouver.

To my immense pride and joy, I recently took the plunge and began my inevitable foray into knifemaking. I've been years in the reading, but my I have no machining background and my tools are limited, and I'm asking for advice and pointers.

The project I've picked out for myself is that of a medium-large camp knife, with a thick, broad blade in the 5"-plus range - lots of room to varnish my mistakes. It will probably be a saber grind, probably on the shallow side for toughness and ease of manufacture. I'm toying with the ideas of a saw-toothed spine, wire-stripping thumb grooves, a hideaway handle, and etc, but those things will be garnishes that I'll add at the end if I'm feeling it.

My primary building materials for this project is a 1/4"x3"x12" slab of 5160 spring steel, and a block of 3/8" linen micarta. My tools consist of a drill press, a 4x36 grinder, a dremel, and assorted hand tools. Not much I know, but hopefully enough.

The first thing I noticed about cutting metal, apart from how much fun it is, is that 5160 work hardens like mad. I know it's a very even-hardening steel, wouldn't make a good spring otherwise, but I guess this translates to *easy*-hardening. There appears to be no way of cutting this stuff without making it harder to cut. I'm not set up to anneal anything, so I worry I might just be stuck with a hard job. Does anyone have tips for working this steel with a limited, less-than-ideal shop setup? I'm definitely going to outsource the heat treatment when the time comes, but is there a simple way to soften the steel, or is there anything you absolutely shouldn't do to it?

I really appreciate any advice, tips, warnings, pointers, and so on. You can bet you'll get pics when I'm done. Wish me luck!
 
I've got some opinions


Firstly if you are going to outsource heat treat, start with a soft steel, O1 precision ground is butter soft and will not work harden as I've used it.

Start with a smaller knife, Yes it's possible mistakes are made into smaller knives, but start with a small knife
finishing by hand - the effort goes way up as the knife gets bigger.

Call it something in the EDC utility range, it will be so much more useful too.

Go thinner
Damn near every maker wants to start with 1/4" steel, I did too by following other examples, but it's a mistake I tell you, a big mistake

AS suggested with the smaller edc, go 1/8" or even 3/32" thick stock.
Thin is in

I seen a parade of "my first knives" with 1/4 material and scandi edges that go 1/4 to 3/8" up the blade - a 45* angle
, even my hardware store axes have slimmer bevels.

Full flat grinds cut better because they are slimmer.
It's easier to do a full flat than a saber grind, because matching the height bevel grind lines on both sides is difficult.


I'm toying with the ideas of a saw-toothed spine, wire-stripping thumb grooves, a hideaway handle, and etc, but those things will be garnishes that I'll add at the end if I'm feeling it.

Forget that stuff, just make a simple ckean nice knife.




Let's see you post a sketch of your designs.
 
The Count's Standard Reply to New Knifemakers V35

The answer to a student is different than to a retired machinist
With members worldwide, you may have a local supplier, hammerin or neighbour.
Join our community;fill out your profile with location (Country, State, City), age, education, employment and hobbies so we get a sense of where and who you are.


The basics in the simplest terms
Absolute Cheapskate Way to Start Making Knives-Printable PDF
http://www.2shared.com/document/hk4wQruA/Absolute_Cheapskate_Way_to_Sta.html


Web Tutorials
Detailed instructions http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=694673

Things I Advise New Makers Against-Printable PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?8og1ix21j9dcz4n

Handle Tutorial - Nick Wheeler-PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?02ra4do6xyzayeq
http://www4.gvsu.edu/triert/cache/articles/nw1/scales1.htm

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...Wheeler-s-Steel-*-Stuck-in-the-metal-with-you
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/956343-Damascus-integral-tag-along

Bob Egnath how to http://www.engnath.com/manframe.htm

Books
A list of books and videos http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9435307&postcount=43

BladeForums - E-books or Google books http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Books I like:
David Boye-Step by Step Knifemaking
Tim McCreight-Custom Knifemaking: 10 Projects from a Master Craftsman
Clear, well organized, available and inexpensive.


Forging Books:
Lorelei Sims-The Backyard Blacksmith - A modern book with colour photos - forging - no knifemaking.

Jim Hrisoulas
The Complete Bladesmith: Forging Your Way to Perfection
The Pattern-Welded Blade: Artistry in Iron
The Master Bladesmith: Advanced Studies in Steel

Machine Shop Basics -Books:
Elementary Machine Shop Practice-Printable PDF Http://www.archive.org/download/elementarymachin00palmrich/elementarymachin00palmrich.pdf

The Complete Practical Machinist-Printable -1885-PDF http://ia700309.us.archive.org/6/items/completepractic00rosegoog/completepractic00rosegoog.pdf
Right Click and save

The $50 knife Shop-not recommended
Great title, but NOT gospel.
Forging is NOT necessary; file and grind (stock removal)

Forget the "Goop Quench" It's Bullsh*t
Back when they used whale oil, it was still liquid oil
Use a commercial quench oil & match oil speed to steel type;
Grocery store canola oil works for some steels like 1084

Junkyard steel requires skill and experience to identify and heat treat
Forget Lawnmower blades and railroad spikes, start with a new known steel
Good heat treating needs accurate temperature control and full quench
Proper steel like 1084FG from Aldo is inexpensive and quench in Canola

Cable damascus is an advanced project has no place in a beginner’s book

The grinders are the best thing about this book, but 2x72” belt grinders plans are now free on the web


Videos

Don't be this guy
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gEOTtslHARQ

Heat Treating Basics Video-downloadable
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days http://www.archive.org/download/gov.ntis.ava08799vnb1/ava08799vnb1_512kb.mp4

Safety-video
Right click and save this. Watch it once a day for 10 days http://www.howtomakeaknife.net/FreeStuff/SafetyVideo.wmv

Many knifemaking videos are available, some better than others

The best beginner videos I have seen:
“Steve Johnson-Making a Sub-Hilt Fighter”

"Ed Caffrey - Basic Bladesmithing-Full DVD-ISO"

“Custom Knife Sheaths -Chuck Burrows - Wild Rose”
Paul Long has 2 videos, his sheath work & videos are fantastic and recommended, but more advanced-with inlays, tooling and machine stitching

Green Pete's Free Video
Making a Mora bushcraft knife, stock removal, hand tools, neo tribal / unplugged heat treat
Use a piece of known 1084 steel, not a file. This as an example of doing it by hand with few tools
"Green Pete" posted it free
Be sure to look at the other titles I mentioned too - spend some time searching knifemaking torrents

Greenpete Knifemaking Basics-on TPB
http://thepiratebay.org/torrent/499...femaking_Basics_-_Make_a_Mora_Bushcraft_Knife

How to download that video
http://www.utorrent.com/help/guides/beginners-guide

Videos for rent,read the reviews, Some good, some bad, expect to wait months and there have been no new videos in years.
http://smartflix.com/store/category/9/Knifemaking


Knife Design:
Think thin, simple and fixed
Forget swords, saw-teeth, guthooks, crazy grinds and folders for your first knife

Look at hundreds of photos
Lloyd Harding drawings, Loveless book & Bob Engnath Patterns
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=603203

Bob Engnath Patterns PDF http://www.mediafire.com/?qgx7yebn77n77qx

Start with a drawing and post it, we love photos
French curves, graph paper and erasers are vital tools
http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_bHFtVNs9tWA/TEj5Quiq1ZI/AAAAAAAAAI0/rn2EoHoXpVc/s1600/The+French+Curve.jpg

http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1147466-How?p=13120810#post13120810

Then a cardboard cutout template & with handles, pins and such
Use playdough to shape a comfortable handle, good handles are not flat

How to post a photo
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...AL-Displaying-your-photographs-on-BladeForums



Draw Filing Demonstration
YouTube video -Draw Filing-for a flat finish http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dec78RQsokw

Nick Wheeler- Hand sanding 101 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4I4x4QLpfnk

Steel
The “welding steel” at Home Depot / Lowes is useless for knives
Forget about lawnmower blades ,files, railroad spikes and other unknown junkyard steels
For the work involved, it is very cheap to buy and use a known good steel
You will spend more money on sandpaper or soda pop than you will for steel

If you send out for heat treating, you can use
Oil quenched O1, 1095, 1084
Or air quenched A2, CM154, ATS34, CPM154, 440C, Elmax plus many others.

For heat treating yourself with minimal equipment, find Eutectoid steel and quench in Canola oil.
1084FG sold by Aldo Bruno is formulated for Knifemaking, Cheap & made for DIY heat-treat.
http://njsteelbaron.com/
Phone # 862-203-8160
His telephone service is better than his website.

Suppliers List
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=699736

Heat Treating
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showpost.php?p=9143684&postcount=7

You can send blades out for heat treating at $10 or $15 per blade for perfect results

Air Hardening Stainless Steel Only
Buck Pau Bos -Be sure to check the Shipping and Price tabs
http://www.buckknives.com/index.cfm?event=bio.paulBos#
http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/privacy.php#services

Oil Hardening Carbon Steels and Air Hardening Stainless Steel
http://www.petersheattreat.com/cutlery.html
http://www.knifemaker.ca/ (Canadian)

FAQ's
http://www.hypefreeblades.com/faq.html

1095 is a bad choice for a beginner with limited equipment to HT themselves
1095 is "Hypereutectioid" and needs precise temperature control and proper fast quench oil Like Parks 50 or Houghton K
Kevin Cashen - 1095 - hypereutectoid steel
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/673173-Working-the-three-steel-types

If you are sending one or 2 knives out for heat treatment, use 154-CM or CPM-154 CPM-s35vn Elmax, and ship it out to TKS -Texas Knifemaker Supply
It's the cheapest way to do 1 or 2 due to minimum charges


Quenchants for Oil hardening steel
Forget the Goop Quench and Motor oil, especially used oil

Use commercial quench oil & match oil speed to the steel type
Explanation and classification oil speeds
http://knifedogs.com/showthread.php?28197-Hardening-II-Quenching

Grocery store canola oil works well enough for your first knife-if you use the right steel like 1084

Brine and water are cheap for "water hardening" steels W1 and 1095, but use fast oils Parks 50 & Houghton Houghto Quench K
If you use water or brine, expect a broken blade

Hot steel beats plastic, Don't quench in a plastic pail

Glue – Epoxy
Use new slow setting 30 min high strength epoxy to attach handles and seal out moisture
Slow epoxy is stronger and gives you time to work
prep, measure, mix are key in glueing.
Surface Prep is vital, drill tang holes/ grind a hollow, roughen the surfaces with abrasive or blasting is best
Ensure the surface is clean including fingerprints, wear vinyl or nitrile gloves
Use Acetone or Blasting
Don't over-clamp a “glue starved joint” is weak - adhesive is squeezed out

West Systems G Flex http://www.westsystem.com/ss/g-flex-epoxy/
Find it locally http://www.westsystem.com/ss/where-to-buy/
Brownell's Acraglas
JB Weld-leaves a grey line


Grinder / Tools

Hand Tools
You can do it by hand with files and abrasive like the Green Pete video.
Use 1084 instead of a file, spheroid annealed steel is butter soft

Stacy - 10 Tools
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1049666-Ten-Tools?p=11983527#post11983527

Filing jigs
http://www.flemingknives.com/imagesPrime/FileStation/KPicB007.jpg
Http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8486/8152684286_312b9fc8da_b.jpg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r9iNDRwwBQQ#t=330

Grinders
A professional three or four wheel 2x72 is worth it
In my opinion, variable speed and a small wheel attachment are essential on a good grinder.
Tracking problems are usually solved with belt tension. It needs to be way tighter than you first think.

Entry Level Grinders
Sears Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder
Low Speed Modification Craftsman 2x42 belt grinder http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qfYT_m2Tw0


Commercial Production 2 x 72” Belt Grinder Reviews
http://www.prometheanknives.com/shop-techniques-3/grinders


DIY 2 x 72” Belt Grinders

KMG Clone Free Plans
http://www.metalwebnews.com/manuals/knife-grinder.pdf

NWG No Weld Grinder $25 plans
http://usaknifemaker.com/plans-for-the-no-weld-grinder-sander-nearly-50-pages.html

EERF Grinder (EERF =“Free” backwards)
http://www.wilmontgrinders.com/Pages/EERFGrinder.aspx
http://blindhogg.com/blueprints.html
http://polarbearforge.com/grinder_kit.html

What Belts to buy?
Every maker has a different preference, new belts come out all the time, search for recent threads.
Ceramic, trizact and structured belts are expensive and have long life. Aluminium oxide are cheap and wear quickly
Some belts have rigid backing, J-flex have soft backing and can blend curves.
Blaze and Cubitron are popular


VFD Variable Speed made simple

Step pulleys are not as cheap as you may think
Maska steel pulleys are good, plus shaft, bearings, belt

It all adds up to 1/2 the price of a sealed class NEMA 4 VFD like a KB Electronics KBAC-27D

I like direct drive with no belts, a VFD and 3 phase motor for about $200 over the price of the step pulleys with fine instant control.

NEMA 1 VFD’s will keep your fingers out, but the metallic dust intrusion will smoke it.


Motor
3 phase 220v 1.5 HP motor, TEFC, frame 56 or 56C,
RPM is up to you some use 1700 RPM at double speed.
Make sure it has a footed base for the KMG and NWG, or a C flange face mount for Bader, Bee, Wilton and GIB styles.
I get them on ebay, even with paying $100 for shipping to Canada I save $ on used motors

The 1.5 HP combination is the most common
It allows you to plug into any 110vac, 15 amp outlet.
A 2 HP motor requires a 220vac input.


VFD
KBAC-27D
http://www.kbelectronics.com/Variable_Speed_AC_Drives_Inverters/AC_Drives_NEMA_4X.html
http://www.kbelectronics.com/manuals/kbda_manual.pdf
Use the Distributor Locator to find a local source, online sources may be cheaper.

There are cheaper units, but the only VFD I have found that runs a 1.5 HP motor on a 110v 15 amp input is the KBAC-27D

It is NEMA 4, sealed from metal dust

Good community and company support, manuals, hook-up diagrams, photos and settings.
If you buy a bargain vfd, you're stuck with a chinglish manual and ridiculous programming.

Travis W reports running a 2 HP on a 110v circuit, but I haven’t tried it.

Hookup is simple
http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/VS-setup.html


Safety Equipment
Protect your -Eyes, Ears, Fingers, and Lungs – remove jewellery and use safety gear.

Respirators
Chronic lung disease and cancer really suck the joy out of life.

If you can't breathe, nothing else matters.

Wearing a mask and glasses on the top of your head doesn't Count.

The minimum I would consider are silicone half masks with a P100 Filter
The silicone masks are softer and fit better
3M 7500
http://multimedia.3m.com/mws/mediaw...Ox_Uev7qe17zHvTSevTSeSSSSSS--&fn=CH7500FP.pdf

and North 7700
http://www.amazon.com/North-Safety-770030L-Silicone-Respirator/dp/B002C08YCW
http://www.amazon.com/North-7580P100-P100-Particulate-Cartridge/dp/B000UH6PSE/ref=pd_bxgy_hi_img_b.

Use a VOC & P100 combo cartridge for acetone and glue fumes.
Prefilters can snap over the main filter for longer life.
There are 3 sizes of face piece, get fitted in person

Shave, also test the fit every time.

For beards
3M PAPR
Resp-O-Rator
3m Breathe Easy
Trend Airshield Pro
Air Cap II


Search

This searches BF well.
http://www.google.com/cse/home?cx=011197018607028182644:qfobr3dlcra

Get rich making knives ?
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/s...knife-making-worth-it?p=11980504#post11980504

Visit a shop in person
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1166688-How-to-get-a-shop-invite

V35 July 23, 2014
Countavatar.jpg
 
I currently have similar tools to what you describe and my first attempt at a knife (ready for HT minus the pin holes being drilled) was with a piece of 5160 3/16" thick. I did everything with files and sandpaper. Second attempt was with a similar piece of 5160 (almost ready for HT minus grinding the saw marks out of the tang area and pin holes) was done on a Craftsman 4 x 36 using Norton Zirc belts. I have not noticed work hardening but I think my steel was in hot rolled state. My only two suggestions are to use a high tension hack saw for the cutting. The difference between the cheap Nicholson hack saw and the high tension Swedish (not sure the brand) hack saw was night and day. Secondly both blades are close to 5" and starting with 3/16" thick steel was a lot of metal to remove. Especially for someone that had no idea what to expect. Since that time I have profiled and started the bevels on a few more but using 1/8" annealed 52100 and 1080 (not sure the state but seemed nice and soft, came from Shefields). Once again the difference was night and day. I'm sure it was a combination of slightly more experience and easier material to work. I have since ordered and received 20' of 1/8" 1084 and 12' of .093" 52100 to use on my, hopefully soon to be finished, 2x72 grinder being constructed. Good luck, hope you have as much fun learning as I do.
 
This is my first, hand tools only.
If you are going to outsource HT why not go stainless?
This is RWL34 = CM154 very workable with hand tools only

Also KISS, Keep It Simple Sonny!
Leave all the bells and whissles like saw teeth etc for future projects

1e%2520mes%2520aanzicht.jpg
 
Thanks for the excellent pointers folks! Perrin, I especially appreciate you sharing your 5160 experiences; it sounds like the blank I'm working on is slightly hardened. I'm using zirc belts as well, and having a bear of a time. 1-10, I appreciate all your input as well, and have read many of the links you posted already. Your advice about starting small and simple is sound, and I've heard it before, but this is a project I'm already well along on. My original plan was to cut my slab of 5160 into smaller pieces to make several knives, but this was trumped by a recent camping trip to Skookumchuck. One of my buddies' buddies had an ESEE-5 that impressed me so much I decided to live dangerously and make one of my own. Those of more experience may be right to shake their heads, but that's quite simply that. Somehow I sense the learning process will remain uncompromised :-P

Thanks again for all the consideration, everybody. If anyone has more advice, particularly pertaining to working with 5160, I'd love to hear it!

(To answer your question, Hengelo, I shied away from stainless when picking a steel because I hadn't at that time ruled out the possibility of back-yard heat-treating, and also because I'm making a Bush knife, and carbon alloys appeal to me for the ease of sharpening.)
 
Let us know how your progress goes. I am a basic-tool maker too, working on knife #4. I couldn't agree with The Count more with his advice. At this point, I am looking at smaller, thinner knives to get the basic processes down even though knife #3 was much more complex. Best of luck.
 
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