first big one in a while

atakach

atakach

Joined
Jan 17, 2008
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now remembering why i like to make the smaller knives, as this was a real pain in the but to grind on a 9'' flat disc, gonna have to get me one of them beveled ones.

here's how it went., I still need to do some finish work on handle , clean up the false edge, and heat treat the knife. but it's gonna have a satin finish, obviously maroon micarta scales, and nickle silver pins.

the stock is 3/16'' 01, and is fully flat ground

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Very nice! Do you grind your bevels on a disk, and how do you heat treat the blade after it's finished with handles installed (or are they not yet?)
 
P J 234 said:
Very nice! Do you grind your bevels on a disk, and how do you heat treat the blade after it's finished with handles installed (or are they not yet?)
Click to expand...

yes grinding is done on a disc, i have a bader, but only serrerated contact wheels for it, to poor for the flat platen, so i just rough it out with the 36 grt. belt, then goto an 80 grt. disc, then 120,220,40o, ect.

no i just usually always finish the handles before i grind, so i dont have to do handle work with a sharp pointy knife. the pins are temporary, and i just drift them out and replace with new ones, when i do final assembly.

thanks
 
Aside from a beveled disk being needed for a longer blade, overall how is grinding bevels on a disk vs. on a flat platen? I'm right at the stage of needing (wanting?) to upgrade to a real grinder but I'm having trouble pulling the trigger and spending the money. A disk would be a lot less money and easier to swallow at this point, but I haven't read much about grinding bevels with them. One more thing if you don't mind, do you have your disk horizontal or vertical?
 
well, i think a disc is the best way to go. but thats a personal preference, and im sure, someone will chime in with a different view.

i just think that a disc is the easiest way to get a perfectly flat ground blade, or at least the easiest way for me, because , especially on smaller blades, because your grinding the whole blade at once, instead of in sections.

i use mine upright, as apposed to laying down, and cant honestly say what is the best way as this is the only way ive ever tried.

as an investment for what it costs i think a disc grinder is invaluable. i know some are expensive, near a grand or better, and im gonna build one like that in the future, with reverse and all, but as of now i have a washing machine motor, with a disc mounted on it, and it's a little weak, maybe 1/3hp , but i have a 3/4 hp to put on the one im gonna build.

i guess you gotta find what works for you, this works for me, and ive ground every knife iv'e made for the past few years on that little motor and disc, i think the whole thing cost me $79.99, the cost of the disc, got the motor free.

one last note, it is wise and prob. safer to invest in some kind of reversible set up, because the way i grind is a pain in the butt, i grind both side of the blade on one side of the disc, i grind one side edge down and the other edge up.........andrew
 
also i rarely spring for the good zirc discs, which are excellent, but costly, i generally spend about $20-30 a week on sand paper, in varying grits, and a can of spray adhesive, even the cheapest kind will work....ive even used elmers in a pinch, but the actual disc adhesive is about the same price, but for a can half as big.

the advantage of the actual disc adhesive is you can replace the disc, several times without re applying the spray.

well those are my thoughts..........andrew
 
Andrew, thanks for the advice on disk grinders. Maybe I will tinker around with some scrap on my small 6" combo just to see what that feels like to see if I can get a sense of it. When you are grinding a blade, do you hold it in a fixed position, or do you pull it across the disk?
 
Like PJ, I will have to try the 6" on a small blade and see if I like it.

Nice knife, I like the handle contours a lot :thumbup:
 
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i pull it,;):D

seriously though, you need to work the whole length of the blade, so i make passes, after the plunge cut, starting an inch or so in front of the choil, working out toward the tip, then you'll almost feel it float back and forth, on the disc.

one thing that sucks, is that you wear out the first inch of the disc, and still have all that good disc, would be a good idea to have an 8'' disc made.

then you could put the paper on a 9''disc cut it out, use it up, and then take it off and put it on a 8'' disc, recut, and you'd have an almost new disc,since i dont do that i waste alot of paper, :(
 
Andrew , glad to see you put that false edge in my dream knife . This way I can keep dreaming .:D
Sure does look good though .:thumbup:
FYI , you can get an 8" disc at " Kingsley North Inc. " a lapidary supplier for $53 bucks . So when you get your 3/4 hp set up you can have both .
 
jack,

sorry on the design, next one will be the knife of your dreams....eh a i mean anyway, do you use the 8'' method i described?

andrew
 
atakach said:
jack,

sorry on the design, next one will be the knife of your dreams....eh a i mean anyway, do you use the 8'' method i described?

andrew
Click to expand...

I only have an 8" , 1/3 hp. 1725 rpm reversible disc grinder at this time . Got the motor for free and the disc for 35 bucks . Been using it for 12 yrs. now . I just picked up a 3/4hp farm duty motor and 10" disc on e-bay for a total 125 bucks . I'm going to use this to set the initial grind and then move to the 8" for finish . Hope it works out . I'm lazy and use the psa disc so I should only need the 60 grit for the 10" .
 
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