First blade from stock, needing some opinions on quenching.

[i.keenum]

I've made a couple blades from old saw blades by doing some slow grinding and keeping it's native temper. I'm working on my first blade from 1095 bar to knife. Have the shape cut and started on the primary grind.

My questions comes to austempering, this is my first piece and I have done hours of reading and my choices come down to warm canola oil or hot salt brine for the quench for the best chances of not cracking. I'm going to make sure to grind to a high grit and avoid sharp corners so there isn't as many stress risers. I'm wanting to do a hamon using clay and quenching in water to get a nice line. I want to know if you guys think this is too much for to attempt on a first knife and if I should just do a normal quench in oil with clay or no clay. Not sure if it matters but I got my steel from Jantz.

Know 1095 quench is a horse that it been beat to death , zombified and then re beat to death. I would like to thank you guys in advanced for your time.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

Austempering??....That is not what you want to do if you are making a knife.

I would guess you are asking about the HT and quench. The heating part is called austenitization.

1095 needs to be evenly heated to 1475F ( austenitization) and held there for 5-10 minutes ( soak). Then it is quenched in a fast oil like Parks #50. Canola warmed to 120-130F will work, but on larger blades it may not get complete conversion. After the quench and cooling to room temperature, temper for one hour at 400F, cool off in water, and temper again for a second hour.

Brine quench is possible with 1095, but a VERY BAD idea for anyone but a pro. Failure rate is very high with the blade breaking or warping into a corkscrew.

Read all the threads on 1095 HT and on straightening warp...because you are going to have warp issues with a large blade like that.

Good luck and keep us posted.

 

[i.keenum]

Thought brine quench would be a little ambitious lol, I'll forget about that for this monster. I don't have the means for parks and the home made oils options have as many opinions as stars in the sky. Canola was what I came across the most but also saw transmission oil, mineral oil, goop, bacon grease and on. What's your best opinion for a garage knife marker working with limited resources. It's a very thick blade at 3/16" by 16" and I'm keeping the edge to a dimes thickness. To give an idea of my restraints you can see my grinders is a extra custom upside down hand sander balanced on a toddler chair lol.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I would heat it to non-magnetic and then about a full shade redder. Hold it there for a minute if you can, making sure the edge color is what is being maintained evenly. Quench immediately in a gallon or more of 120F canola in a tall metal can. Hold under the oil for a count of five, and then pull out. Using gloved hands, straighten any warps quickly, and then return to the oil to cool down. After five minutes, take out, wipe/wash off, and temper twice in the oven at 400F. Cool in water between tempers.

That should give you a good blade for finishing. If the knife will be used for chopping, temper at 425F.