First Blade

B

Brian.Evans

Registered Member
Joined
Aug 20, 2011
Messages
3,267
Hey everyone, working on my first knife. I am starting on my first straight razor, mentored by several of the razormakers over on The Straight Razor Place forum, but wanted to put up a design for a first knife here to let everyone pick it apart.

Specific questions:
1. I ordered 5/16"x1 1/4" O-1 to use for my razor. Can I use the same steel for my knife, or should I be looking for thinner stock. I'd rather just use what I have, but if I can't, then I can order different in a couple weeks.

2. I'm using files for my razor, so I will be using files for this blade as well.

3. Thinking about putting a thumb notch where indicated on the spine. Yes, no, hell no, other?

Thanks for the critiques. Looking forward to hearing back from everyone. Getting excited!!

Ok, I will put up the picture of the pattern in a bit. It's not working on my dang phone.

Here's the link to photobucket. Can't figure out how to post a picture from tapatalk and photobucket mobile.
b51b7e53.jpg
 
Last edited:
I thought razors were hollow ground.

How are you going to hollow grind with a file?
 
There are several different grinds of razors, one of the most popular for the last 100 years is indeed the hollow grind. However, originally razors were wedges, graduating through near wedge, 1/4 hollow, half hollow etc.

But in answer to your question, I will be making a wedge and hollowing a light hollow with a Japanese tool known as a sen. It's kind of like a chisel, but not quite. More of a scraper.
 
The stock thickness you mentioned will make a very sturdy camp knife, or small chopper. Go for it...O1 is a fine steel for knives also.
 
melsdad said:
The stock thickness you mentioned will make a very sturdy camp knife, or small chopper. Go for it...O1 is a fine steel for knives also.
Click to expand...

What do you think about the profile? I'm thinking about making it a little longer to make it more versatile in camp.
 
medicevans said:
What do you think about the profile? I'm thinking about making it a little longer to make it more versatile in camp.
Click to expand...

You are limited in design due to the width of stock you have to deal with. A longer blade may work well, but I'm thinking of something with a 5" blade max to keep it in proportion to the width of stock you have.

Take your bar stock, trace around it on a piece of paper and start drawing a knife inside the rectangle till you get something that trips your trigger. Have fun! Your first knife doesn't have to be perfect, but try your best to make it perfect. You will learn a ton on your first one and apply what you learned to your next knife, and the next one, and the next one...... It's an addiction!
 
Thanks melsdad. I redrew the blade another 3/4 of an inch longer. I like the length, but I'm not sure about blade shape and the handle yet. Needs another revision. Here's the pic.
abf8d9bc.jpg
 
Last edited:
My mentor through all of this has been freaking awesome. Here's his revision of my original. I like it!

7be417ec.jpg
 
medicevans said:
There are several different grinds of razors, one of the most popular for the last 100 years is indeed the hollow grind. However, originally razors were wedges, graduating through near wedge, 1/4 hollow, half hollow etc.

But in answer to your question, I will be making a wedge and hollowing a light hollow with a Japanese tool known as a sen. It's kind of like a chisel, but not quite. More of a scraper.
Click to expand...

Interesting! I learn something new everyday!

I hope you post some pics when you begin working on your razor. I've wanted to make one for a while, but don't know where to start. (Never handled one, just seen pics.)
 
5/16 is WAY too thick for such a small blade. And while the idea of making an integral is cool, I think that's biting off WAY MORE than you can chew right now. There are many aspects to an integral that require a lot more skill and experience than a simple, full tang knife.

My recommendation would be to order some 1/8" thick steel and make your design from that. It will be FAR LESS work to profile the blade, as well as file in the bevels.
 
Nick, can you expand on the aspects of making an integral that I may not be considering?

Mr. Mitchell, I will indeed put up pictures of my razor as I work on it. Probably will get the knife done first then do the razor. Who knows.
 
medicevans, i agree with nick on the steel being too thick for your first knife. which member is helping you with the razor over on srp? i have a razor that belongs to nun2sharp that i had to repair the edge on and a shave ready razor sent to me by shooter74743 to check out. if you would send me your number i'll give you a call and try to answer your questions.
rje196021@gmail.com
 
Shooter74743 has commented on the thread with a lot of helpful comments, Mike Blue helped me pick the steel and will be doing the HT on the razors, Phillip Dobson has helped with the profile and specific questions on the knife, UPD has helped and given comments on the razors. I will be sending you an email!
 
a few days ago i went to a friends house to visit. he showed me 2 old razors and one was flat ground. he is going to bring it in sometime so i can take some pictures of it. i think i'm going to try my hand at making a razor one of these days and make it a flat grind just to see how it does. i'll have to find someone else to give it a try since i'm not into shaving with a straight razor. i want to keep what skin i have on my neck :D.
 
I think Nick is right most of the time.... cept here.... lol.:p

5/16" is pretty thick for a small knife... then again, you're intent is to make an integral bolster. I'll agree that it's a big jump for a first blade but I think if you are in it to have a good time and have a concept of what you are in for(which you seem to be realistic about) then nothing is really unachievable. I don't believe you need to take baby steps. If the first blade you make is a take down, subhilt fighter with fileworked spine, and pearl inlay... so be it. Take it slow, research, ask questions and HAVE FUN. Are you doing your own heat treat?

I would lose the thumb notch... how much will it increase the comfort? I know my grips change with the tasks I am performing and exaggerated/specialized features always seem to find a way to create hotspots. I would also lengthen the handle a bit to atleast give your baby finger a purchase on the grip. It will go a long way in preventing hand fatigue. Just personal opinion/preference.... the blade looks good.

Have you made a wooden prototype yet? That can tell you a lot!

Rick
 
Thumb notch or finger notch? I actually have a prototype from steel now! Lol. The finger notch is actually much much shallower now. The blade has been lengthened and the tail put back in. It now accommodates my entire hand, including my pinky. I hadn't posted the finished design. Seemed like interest kind of waned here, so I was just plugging along on my own. Just got the blank cut out yesterday, and hope to have it and the two razors I'm also making completely profiled late tonight. Then, this weekend I can start filing the grinds in! Woot! Lol
 
Ps, the thumb notch on the top got completely taken out a while ago. Looked dumb and served very little to no real purpose. Not my kind of feature.
 
I was under the impression that O-1 was kind of tricky to self HT. I really don't want to screw up three pieces of steel just to save a little money.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top