First Car: Buy or Lease?

I guess it's just PNC Bank! I'll call around to several banks in the area, but I know nothing of Credit Unions. If someone could enlighten me it would be great!

A lot of banks don't like to give loans out for used cars...and the older the model, the less likely of getting approved. Of course your income, savings balance, credit score, etc all play a role in getting approved.

As for credit unions they are pretty much banks that treat you better. They offer the same services but usually with reduced fees, better rates, and much better customer service. For example at one point my old credit union was giving a higher interest rate on their checking accounts than Bank Of America was giving on their cd's. When you try to get a loan from them it is a lot more personal. Through the big banks they often call headquarters with your info then either tell you yes or no and thats the end of it. Credit unions also look at credit scores, etc but often its the individual sitting across from you that makes the decision.

For example you may have a student that wants a loan and the big bank will look and see they have a minimum amount of income, and a large load of student debt so they will probably just say "no" outright. A credit union you can talk with them and show them that you have limited income because you're in school fulltime, and yes you have a lot of student debt but you will graduate next year with a doctorate making 6 figure income. Its like the difference between calling a companies customer service and getting an automated voice prompt or a real person.

Some credit unions have requirements to join....you may have to be employed through certain employers, etc. But most people can find a credit union that will treat them better than the big banks will.
 
leased cars are great, to buy used that is. They are well cared for and what I am going to do for my next purchase.
 
Thanks for the link. I'll check it out!

I'll have to see what PNC says about the blank check loan. I just know they said I couldn't get an auto loan on a used vehicle..
 
A no money down cheap lease is not the most economically sound long term strategy, but I have leased a car when I needed a car and needed all my cash for buying my house. In that case, I didn't have enough cash to pay for any kind of a decent car but because of my job I needed a reliable one. I had a steady income but no money for a car since I'd just started my first job and was saving it all for the house. It turned out to be a decent situation and I got some credit history, which i wouldn't have gotten paying cash for a beater.
 
A no money down cheap lease is not the most economically sound long term strategy, but I have leased a car when I needed a car and needed all my cash for buying my house. In that case, I didn't have enough cash to pay for any kind of a decent car but because of my job I needed a reliable one. I had a steady income but no money for a car since I'd just started my first job and was saving it all for the house. It turned out to be a decent situation and I got some credit history, which i wouldn't have gotten paying cash for a beater.

I'm in a semi-similar situation. Instead of paying for a house, however, I have to pay towards school. I do have credit established for 5 years, but simply don't make enough to get a decent loan (I guess now is when a credit union would come in handy) without a co-signer. Luckily, my grandma stepped up and is willing to help me.
 
a helpful tool when you are looking around is to keep this bit in mind. When they are quoting a payment and not the price, for every $16 there is about $1,000 being financed. That's a 5 year note. Just FYI, also the $16 is a general number in your area it could be +- a couple of dollars.
 
I'm in a semi-similar situation. Instead of paying for a house, however, I have to pay towards school. I do have credit established for 5 years, but simply don't make enough to get a decent loan (I guess now is when a credit union would come in handy) without a co-signer. Luckily, my grandma stepped up and is willing to help me.

Then you are buying way too much car. Dude, if you're still in school, buy a $2000 car and have no payments. A $2000 car goes for a long long time.
 
I'm in a semi-similar situation. Instead of paying for a house, however, I have to pay towards school. I do have credit established for 5 years, but simply don't make enough to get a decent loan (I guess now is when a credit union would come in handy) without a co-signer. Luckily, my grandma stepped up and is willing to help me.

There's pros and cons to both buying or leasing ( or buying used vs leasing new). I've done both, bought and leased. I even purchased a car after my lease was up. This has its advantages too... If your considering buying a 2 or 3 y/o used car now, then why not buy a car that you used for three years later on?

The best way to lease a car is when the factory is having a special ( not a dealer , the car's maker). If a maker is advertising a lease special for a specific term, you're pretty much guaranteed to get that deal when you go to the local dealer. The downside is you're shopping for the best lease deal by car maker and not necessarily based on the car you really want. But you get a brand new car , with a new car warranty and a set monthly expense. Outside of the regular maintenance you won't have unforeseen repair expenses. I won't lease a car unless the factory is offering a special lease program, I don't trust dealers.

When you lease your not building any equity in the car, but once the term is up you can usually buy the car at a good price.

When shopping for a lease ,add up any down payment + monthly payments for the term and the ending value ( residual) , compare this to the sticker price. This will give you an idea if you're getting a good deal or not. You'd be surprised,interest rates are low , you can get a good deal on a lease.

I'm not a car dealer, but I've bought and leased a bunch of cars over the last couple of decades
 
There's pros and cons to both buying or leasing ( or buying used vs leasing new). I've done both, bought and leased. I even purchased a car after my lease was up. This has its advantages too... If your considering buying a 2 or 3 y/o used car now, then why not buy a car that you used for three years later on?

The best way to lease a car is when the factory is having a special ( not a dealer , the car's maker). If a maker is advertising a lease special for a specific term, you're pretty much guaranteed to get that deal when you go to the local dealer. The downside is you're shopping for the best lease deal by car maker and not necessarily based on the car you really want. But you get a brand new car , with a new car warranty and a set monthly expense. Outside of the regular maintenance you won't have unforeseen repair expenses. I won't lease a car unless the factory is offering a special lease program, I don't trust dealers.

When you lease your not building any equity in the car, but once the term is up you can usually buy the car at a good price.

When shopping for a lease ,add up any down payment + monthly payments for the term and the ending value ( residual) , compare this to the sticker price. This will give you an idea if you're getting a good deal or not. You'd be surprised,interest rates are low , you can get a good deal on a lease.

I'm not a car dealer, but I've bought and leased a bunch of cars over the last couple of decades

Yeah I keep going back and forth with things. Right now i'm just looking for banks that will let me get an auto loan on a used vehicle. Personal loans just carry too high of interest rates..
 
Yeah I keep going back and forth with things. Right now i'm just looking for banks that will let me get an auto loan on a used vehicle. Personal loans just carry too high of interest rates..

Join a credit union, my credit union finances used cars.
I don't know how close you are to this one, but they will finance a used car as old as 2004.

Pittsburgh Federal Credit Union
317 Brownsville Road
Pittsburgh, PA 15210
Phone: (412) 381-6363
 
It sounds like you have your mind made up to finance, but I have to give it one more try. You say you can afford $250/mo., even without a down payment (do you have anything to put down?) it would only take you a few months to save up $1,000-$2,000 to get a beater. You're getting by without a car now, aren't you? Even if your need is urgent, get the personal loan (if you're only going to be paying for a few months you will definitely save more on not having to buy full-coverage insurance than the higher interest rate would cost you) and buy a cheap car. There are lots of good deals out there from private parties.

Here are some of the reasons I say this- Even if the rate is higher on a personal loan, the time frame will be enough shorter that you will pay less interest. You will save a fortune on full-coverage insurance, especially at your age (I assume you are young). Once you have a cheap car, you can save up for a better one and have the benefit of having cash on hand if something comes up- compared to always being strapped for cash because you're making a payment and paying for full-coverage insurance.

Remember, any car you buy is going to end up needing things, whether its repairs, basic maintenance, tires. etc. It can be very hard to afford those things if your making car and insurance payments. I've actually had friends get stuck where they couldn't afford to fix their car because of the payments they were making, so they were making all these payments and had no car to drive! And how do you borrow money to fix it in that situation?

At least look around and see what you can find cheap before getting involved with payments.

My $.02
 
Check educational credit unions as well, I'm a member of one and it's great. They offer loans on vehicles back to x year, and then also classic auto loans, boat, motorcycle, rv. the gamut.

There are a lot of questions that you need to ask yourself that will determine what you buy. I'll throw this out here because it can save you a lot of money. I have two cars that I just paid off last year, one bought new and one bought used. Even on a used vehicle, financed, you pay A LOT more than the price you think you're buying it for. My Trailblazer which I purchased used for under 18k IIRC is now worth around 5k. It's 9 years old. I would rather buy a 9yo vehicle for 5k dollars cash. I understand you don't have the money to do that, NOW, but later you might, so here's what I'd figure out for myself:

1. Purpose of the vehicle and how it will be used.
Is it just my commuter, school and work, and how far am I commuting?
Is it town or freeway driving? populated area or rural?
Is it just me or is it me and family/friends riding in it?
What's the weather like where I live?
Where will I park/store it?
This tells me what I need in the vehicle as far as gas mileage, size, how modern it is and what features I want/need (long distance driving I want cruise control but don't mind a manual transmission, where with city driving I don't need cruise but don't want a stick. Older vehicles with 2 speed wipers if I'm gonna have a lot of rain might be irritating, but if it is a dry area I'm not gonna care etc. etc), tells me if I want a small easy to park vehicle that is me plus 1 or need a big one that is me +5.

2. How long will this vehicle need to last me, how long till I'll be able to afford another one? Often times vehicles are transitional. The 65 mustang fastback I had as a teenager was one of the most reliable vehicles I ever owned (often times those older cars/trucks are bulletproof if maintained even semi-well) but now with a wife and two kids and a couple of dogs it wouldn't be right for me. I have a buddy that owns a real nice volvo, but when he took a job that was 1.5 hours away he bought a prius because of the gas bills. saved him more money monthly than the payment on the new car.

3. How much work can/will you realistically be able and willing to do? Oil changes are barely worth doing yourself, but brakes and other repairs can really save you money. I can do the brakes on my wifes Honda for 50-60% of taking it to a shop or dealer. You want to know the type of car you're looking at and the usual maintenance and items that go bad, but you also want to know what the cost of maintenance is on them. If it is a very common vehicle then used parts and non-oem parts are going to be more available and cheaper than a car that is less common or smaller number made.

Believe it or not you can often times for under 2k dollars buy a very reasonable, reliable enough car for your purposes. My uncle bought my wife's contour from her for I think 800 dollars, spent about that much on some repairs which he made himself, it got 25mpg and worked great for him till he gave it to his grandson (who subsequently wrecked it). My buddy just sold an older chevy blazer, 4wd, with aircon, auto etc., very well maintained with 150k miles on it for under 2k. I can go on and on. My point is, you may be able to borrow from your grandma or whomever you said would cosign for you, and do this and save the money you'd spend on interest. that might not be an option, but a personal loan that you could afford to pay off in 6mo to a year would cost you less than an auto loan financed over 4-6 years.

I've learned a lot by doing things the wrong way, or less than ideal way. Hopefully we can save you some learning curve and help you meet your needs at the same time. :)

and don't discount motorcycles! :D

Red
 
Here are some of the reasons I say this- Even if the rate is higher on a personal loan, the time frame will be enough shorter that you will pay less interest. You will save a fortune on full-coverage insurance, especially at your age (I assume you are young). Once you have a cheap car, you can save up for a better one and have the benefit of having cash on hand if something comes up- compared to always being strapped for cash because you're making a payment and paying for full-coverage insurance.

Remember, any car you buy is going to end up needing things, whether its repairs, basic maintenance, tires. etc. It can be very hard to afford those things if your making car and insurance payments. I've actually had friends get stuck where they couldn't afford to fix their car because of the payments they were making, so they were making all these payments and had no car to drive! And how do you borrow money to fix it in that situation?

At least look around and see what you can find cheap before getting involved with payments.

This. Ive bought cheaper cars outright, financed my current car, and helped people lease. For my financed current FJ that is all paid off, I didnt fully appreciate all the extra costs that went with it compared to my previous used car. Even with the 4% interest rate I got through the broker from Mechanics Bank, with a substantial bit down, all in all the car ends up running about $900 a month not counting parking. Thats with a monthly payment of just 500. Insurance was a lot more stringent because of the credit union holding the note. I have no accidents, great credit, no tickets, a solid job, a degree, tons o discounts and still as a 25-30 year old guy was paying $150 a month. When i bought it it wasnt really available used and i had my heart set on it, but looking back, and at my friends who have beater used cars and 0 monthly payments and cheaper insurance... I sorta wish I had bought something outright. And leases offer very little flexibility. I know people who literraly went bankrupt from there insane lease payments. A nice fuel sipping used honda compact or toyo light truck is where its at man! Or a vespa?
 
I've owned a couple of beaters and wish I wouldn't have needed to. I've had them break down on the way to work. I've had them break down during my days off. It is a real pain to spend the time replacing a water pump or a clogged fuel filter when you have something else planned (like finals). Get another job and work extra hours and get a better car. If you have access to some budding mechanics or like working on cars as a hobby a beater might be OK. But, I'd stay away from them.
Get the most basic car you can find. When I was working and going to school I found a Chevette with 20k on the odometer from a private seller. No air, no fancy stereo, no automatic. It was the most economical car I've ever owned. There are a host of small, economical autos out there that you might be able to get for a fair price. And don't go into a deal with preconceived notions of what constitutes a good car (I had sworn that I would never own a Chevette).
Recently, I've bought a new car for the price of a 2 year old used car (researched on Edmunds and Blue Book). With rebates and incentives it was unbelievable.
Don't let the dealerships con you. If you have a cosigner with good credit you should be able to get the lowest interest rates. Walk away if you need to. Also, if you finance, factor in gap insurance. Especially if you buy new.
Finally, I spent several years using public transit and hoofing it. If I had gotten a different job, I would have spent several more years doing the same. You will probably spend more on gas than on the price of the car.
 
I sell insurance so let me give you some advice: Go look around and pick 5 or so cars you think you might want. Get quotes on them for full coverage and liability only from several companies, or if you already have a company like State Farm, Farmers, or another reputable one then you can just go with that company. You need to know what the insurance is going to cost so you don't end up owing more than you can pay. If you have a lienholder on the car you are probably going to have to get full coverage. Around here they all require a 500 deductible on comp and collision if you're financing.

If you are young then don't even think about getting a newer car unless you've got tons of money to burn. You will be paying a ridiculous insurance premium on any halfway expensive car. Get quotes before you do anything. Quotes are free and your insurance agent will be more than happy to do them to try to sell you a policy.
 
lots of good info here...

i am debating selling my truck. she has 187k miles and has been great to me.. just not comfy to drive long distance and i need more storage room for trips and future children. its paid for and i have the title. great condition the miles are mostly highway.

my question is since its related to this subject - if i were to sell out right and say i get $9K for it. so i have 9k in my "pocket" and i get pre approved for a loan for however much... the cost of the vehicle i want is $19K. how would you approach the seller to get them to reduce the price. is it better to tell them upfront that you have 9k to put down in cash or wait for them to hit their rock bottom price and then ask for it to be lower bc you plan on paying 9k down?? its been years since i bought any vehicles
 
lots of good info here...

i am debating selling my truck. she has 187k miles and has been great to me.. just not comfy to drive long distance and i need more storage room for trips and future children. its paid for and i have the title. great condition the miles are mostly highway.

my question is since its related to this subject - if i were to sell out right and say i get $9K for it. so i have 9k in my "pocket" and i get pre approved for a loan for however much... the cost of the vehicle i want is $19K. how would you approach the seller to get them to reduce the price. is it better to tell them upfront that you have 9k to put down in cash or wait for them to hit their rock bottom price and then ask for it to be lower bc you plan on paying 9k down?? its been years since i bought any vehicles

If it's a private seller, I don't think it matters, they're going to expect all the cash upon completion of the transaction. Telling a seller that you have cash and financing just shows you're serious.

If it's a dealer you can tell them you're putting 1/2 down , but you don't need to let them know you've been approved for a loan. They figure once they negotiate a deal, they'll get you approved for financing. They always check to see if you'll qualify for a few thousand more, then try to sell you a $2K warranty and usless crap. That's what the finance manager does.

So the answer is negotiate the best deal and then tell them you'll be getting your own financing.

Also if you mention " no trade" and " big down payment" ,they're going to try very hard to not let you get out of the dealership. They know if you have cash and have started car shopping , statistically you 'll buy a car in 48 hours.
 
If it's a private seller, I don't think it matters, they're going to expect all the cash upon completion of the transaction. Telling a seller that you have cash and financing just shows you're serious.

If it's a dealer you can tell them you're putting 1/2 down , but you don't need to let them know you've been approved for a loan. They figure once they negotiate a deal, they'll get you approved for financing. They always check to see if you'll qualify for a few thousand more, then try to sell you a $2K warranty and usless crap. That's what the finance manager does.

So the answer is negotiate the best deal and then tell them you'll be getting your own financing.

Also if you mention " no trade" and " big down payment" ,they're going to try very hard to not let you get out of the dealership. They know if you have cash and have started car shopping , statistically you 'll buy a car in 48 hours.

no private seller. well maybe have not gotten that far yet. more than likely dealer bc the few i am looking at (4 runners) offer 100k warranty on them (basically its a 50k warranty).


i am debating trading it in. for me its so much easier to trade in than to sell outright due to job and the fact that my job is far from my home so being at home at certain times can be difficult. (chances are ill sell my truck out right) couldnt i just say "i will not pay over a certain amount including the trade in value of my truck?" lets say the price is $19k. could i say i will not pay over $16.5 period (this is tax tags ect). i know the real price would be closer to $17K...

as you can tell its been a while.. i hate car shopping. i hate dealing with salesmen even more.
 
no private seller. well maybe have not gotten that far yet. more than likely dealer bc the few i am looking at (4 runners) offer 100k warranty on them (basically its a 50k warranty).


i am debating trading it in. for me its so much easier to trade in than to sell outright due to job and the fact that my job is far from my home so being at home at certain times can be difficult. (chances are ill sell my truck out right) couldnt i just say "i will not pay over a certain amount including the trade in value of my truck?" lets say the price is $19k. could i say i will not pay over $16.5 period (this is tax tags ect). i know the real price would be closer to $17K...

as you can tell its been a while.. i hate car shopping. i hate dealing with salesmen even more.

It's even harder with used cars, because you don't know how low the stealer... I mean dealer will go.

I can remember at least 3 times over the years, a dealer lost a sale because I found an ad in the paper from their dealership , advertising a used car lower than a price they had quoted me.

If you do a trade then they have two figures to play with, the sale price and the trade in amount. Try to get the lowest price on the new car and then tell them you might do a trade if the price is right. They'll give you this BS that they're only going to wholesale your trade, they always say that.

The best thing to do on the trade is get the Kelly wholesale value, that's close to what they use. I just traded in a car last month , it worked out for me because Ford had a $1000 rebate on trades over and above the dealer's trade in amount. So after you factor in the sales tax savings ( in NY you don't pay sales tax on the trade in amount used towards the new car) and the rebate , I was ok with what they gave me.
 
Back
Top