First damascus blade/first wrought iron guard/Bog Oak & Bronze

[Shaw Blades]

Hello all,

I made this damascus (with Chad's help) at Chad Nichols' place. He helped me understand how the "magic" really happens.

I was hoping to get some criticism and pointers from you guys. This knife was really challenging due to the assembly steps I took. I shaped the guard, etched it, then rough shaped the handle and glued it up. The whole type I was very stressed about not marring up the wrought iron for final shaping. I ended up having a little dished out area by the top right side of the handle where the guard meets the spacer. If it wasn't for that I think this knife would have been worthy of trying to sell.

Does anyone have any suggestions on how to approach a wrought iron guard? Next time I think I'll try the alignment pins. I did try them on the first go round but when I tried to tap the wood handle in place to make an indention to where I would drill the whole for the guide pins, the wood split.

What do you think?

Here you can see the dished out area. How do you get a smooth transition from etched wrought iron or damascus fittings to handle with out messing up the etched surface?

Thanks!

 

[jawilder]

They way I've done it is to shape the guard and handle together while attached to the blade. Then I'll take it all apart, etch, reasemble, and epoxy. I know that others have different methods, but that's how I do it.

 

[Shaw Blades]

How do you keep everything all together without it shifting around? Alignment pins, tight of the tang in the handle block, super glue? I did that for the most part but it wobbled a little and then when I glued up I had to over adjust.

 

[jawilder]

all of the above. 1/16" pins are your friend.

 

[Fred.Rowe]

The appropriate size pins are what is needed here. The 1/16" size looks about right. For me the easiest way is with the use of good quality double sided tape. The type used for carpet is excellent. Stack the pieces in place on the tang once you get them close. Put the almost finished guard in place with double sided tape on the side toward the butt. When you place the next piece on it sticks to the tape. Put tape on this piece and add the last piece, which you have already drilled the holes in. Stick it in place against the tape. Now take the stacked pieces off and drill the two holes into the guard, use the holes in the last piece as your guide. Put the guard back on the tang with tape on the piece to the rear. Take the handle with a Closely drilled hole in it and put it on the tang, get it aligned and push it against the tape. Use a razor blade to part the last piece from the guard, leaving it on the wooden handle. Now you can drill the holes in the wooden handle using the predrilled holes on the guard piece as your guide, drill the holes into the handle. When you take the handle apart and remove the tape and insert the pins; all the pieces fit together perfectly.

Get yourself a big roll of double sided tape; its one of the handiest things to have around the shop.

Fred

 

[Shaw Blades]

Nice tip Fred. I'll be going shopping soon. Thanks!

 

[NickWheeler]

Very nice!!!

My process for one like this is pretty close to what Fred recommended.

If this were my knife--- I would fit the guard, then fit the spacer so it has a light (hand pressure) push fit to get it up to the guard. Then fit the handle material up to that.

At that point I pull the handle and spacer off.

Take the spacer to the drill press and drill two 1/16" indexing holes in it and clean off any burs from drilling.

Then put the spacer back on the knife, followed by a couple VERY light drops of the super thin superglue on the handle side of the spacer. Put the handle block back on and hold it against the spacer for a minute. When you pull the handle block back off, the spacer will come with it, and you can use it as a drill template. Drill through it and into the wood.

Then use the superglue release agent to get the two to come apart.

Very similar to what Fred said, but superglue just works better for me, and the push fit spacer saves me having to drill the pin holes in the guard.

Just a different way to skin the cat.

 

[Shaw Blades]

Thanks Nick. I should have been more patient with the guide pins the second time I did the handle. I appreciate the tips and I believe they will help a lot next time around.