First Folder

F

foxbat34

Joined
Dec 26, 2008
Messages
247
Okay guys, dont be bashful let me know what you think.
Where can I improve?

Wharncliffe ATS34, ~3" blade
Nickel Silver Bolsters, Stabalized burl.
Still need final sanding and buff.

Sorry the pics are bad just took them quick.

edit: this pic may be a little better.
Any slipjoint makers please let me know what I can do to improve. I think I am hooked, there is so much to making these. Glad I had a good teacher to help. Thanks
Sean

DSCF3271.jpg
 
Last edited:
Thanks Ben, Ill try to get some better pics.
I understand now why folders are so much more expensive, they are alot of work.

Sean
 
Looks like your spring is standing uniformly slightly flush of your scales, but that might just be the angle/photography. If it feels smooth, good enough for me!
 
Peen the crap out of it let it sit for a bit then grind it off, and never put any kind of lube on it to get it in or it will always show no matter how good the peen. I start out with the flat face of a 3oz hammer, lite taps it doesn't take much at all with NS then when it mushroomed, I switch to the ball peen side and do the same thing, lite taps. I like to let it sit for a bout 10 or 15 min don't know why but it seems to help. Then grind it flat or what ever shape and your done.
 
Rusty McDonald said:
Peen the crap out of it let it sit for a bit then grind it off, and never put any kind of lube on it to get it in or it will always show no matter how good the peen. I start out with the flat face of a 3oz hammer, lite taps it doesn't take much at all with NS then when it mushroomed, I switch to the ball peen side and do the same thing, lite taps. I like to let it sit for a bout 10 or 15 min don't know why but it seems to help. Then grind it flat or what ever shape and your done.
Click to expand...

Thanks
BTW I checked out your site. You have some great looking work.
 
Thank you very much, I have asked the same questions you are asking now not 2 years ago and this is where I got my answers as well. Ken Coats helped a great deal when I had a slipjoint question.
 
Rusty
If your remark about oil was correct, every factory folder's pivot pin would show!
"sunk" pins require a sharp, shallow tapered hole, and heavier hammer work than exposed pins.
Foxbat
Your work is very good.
 
Every or almost every factory pin is done with a machine too! Usually a press with a spinning head that heats the pin and fuses it to the bolster. Guess every one has a way to do it though, I just use the one that works for me.
 
Foxbat keep at it I used to use a dremel cutter for countersinking pins (by hand)
and have since gone to a x-mas tree shaped carbide cutter sold by Supergrit, its
the one directly under the number 14 of thier small carbide cutters in thier catalog.
As far as oil Ive gone to using grease, after both sides are together and before inserting
the blade I use a toothpick and only put grease where it will ride on the tang.
Ken
 
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