First Forged Blade

I grab about every beating hammer that comes my way. I reshape the faces to suit with a 4 1/2" grinder and then polish a bit on my belt grinder. Different hammers for different things. There are a couple that get the lions share of use.
 
PimpinSquee said:
Stacy, i still have my 1080. but its flat stock and i was giong to grab a stick or two of round bar stock.
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Any reason other than to work out your hammer arm? The first step I do when working from a not-the-size-or-shape-I-need piece is to make it into a flat bar (usually 1/4"x1" or 1/4"x1 1/4" or so). Once I've made that flat bar I start work on the blade. If you've got flat stock around already work with that and save yourself the trouble of squaring up round stock.

Just $.02 from back east...

Oh, and when you go to forge the point from square stock, hit back into the corners of the stock at a 45 degree angle to "push" the corners back into the stock. If you try to work from the sides down, you'll create a "fish lip" shape at the end of the point that you'll have to grind out.

-d
 
Dave Bowen said:
Take the extra time to sand out those marks. You know how to make a knife. just do the sanding part longer, until those marks go away, and you have a mirror finish. The difference between a blade and a beautiful blade, is effort. (and skill, but mostly effort.)
Keep up the good work man.
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There's just no way around that is there?!? I admit I sometimes have a hard time spending that extra step with each grit to get the previous scratches out. ("Aw c'mon man, it's good enough!" "No it's not! Remember what Dad always said, do it right the first time, kid!" {yeah, I talk to myself a lot!:o }) But it is worth it, for sure. Because if you don't, there will always be at least one ugly scratch to come back and haunt you later, and make it look cheap and shoddy :mad:
 
Jacob, When I teach forging at a hammer in, I use 1080 1X1/8" and 1.25X1/4" flat stock. It is simple to learn on. Decker already told you about back forging the point to avoid "fish lips".
The order I teach is:
Shape point
Notch ricasso point
Draw out taper and bevel
Refine blade shape
Hot cut
Draw out tang
Grind to clean up
Drill any holes needed
HT
Finish grind/polish; handle; etc.
Stacy
 
thanks guys. im kinda wanting to start forging the old fashioned way with round stock or square stock. i think its because one uncle is a master farrier and the other is a hobby blacksmith. not to mention im sure my grandpa did some when he was younger. i just feel more comfortable with round stock. thats why i want to buy some 1080 round stock when i get paid. but i also want to find some rebar of the same size to practice more on. i just forged another blade today during my hour and a half break from work because it was slow. less hammer marks but still crappy. once it was finished i had to rush back to work. had already done some grinding on it and already had an edge and was sharpened before i left. got to work and tested it on some boxes and it sliced thru like butter and ive been cutting up some sand paper with it and it still shaves my arm. i just made it as a work knife but i dont plan to destroy this one yet. im kinda happy with it tho. and yes i used rebar again. ill post pics once i get a chance to take them.
 
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