So I am making my first frame lock with .140 1095, .125 Ti, and .125 G-10; the blade is 3" and handle is 4". I have been searching around as to what hardware would be best. What size standoffs, pivot, bushings, washers. I realize the spacing needs to be perfect throughout the whole knife for proper deployment. Any help will be greatly appreciated.
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First Frame Lock
- Thread starter dkline002
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Esav Benyamin
MidniteSuperMod
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Tech Support is for website technical issues.
The Knife Maker's Discussion Forums are for the kind of advice you need, especially Shop Talk.
The Knife Maker's Discussion Forums are for the kind of advice you need, especially Shop Talk.
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Look again, other answers to the same question are there and you may find those useful.
Please remember that this is my opinion and there are so many optional ways to do things. So, my shopping list for your hardware would read:
(1) 1/16" hardened steel detent
(4) .20" long 2-56 screws. Slightly less than your scale thickness, plus your finished blade thickness, plus two washers, divided by two. Even shorter if you countersink your screw heads.
(2) stainless bushings threaded for 2-56 screws. Length should be the blade thickness plus washers
(1) .125" stop pin. Hardened steel and .42" long. Press fit into the Ti side.
(1) .25" pivot with screws. You can easily go to 3/16.
(2) washers at .015" each. Material up to you. ID should be just slightly over your pivot.
Pocket clip and hardware up to you.
As far as putting it all together... that's a whole books worth of answer right there so ask specific questions.
Mark
Please remember that this is my opinion and there are so many optional ways to do things. So, my shopping list for your hardware would read:
(1) 1/16" hardened steel detent
(4) .20" long 2-56 screws. Slightly less than your scale thickness, plus your finished blade thickness, plus two washers, divided by two. Even shorter if you countersink your screw heads.
(2) stainless bushings threaded for 2-56 screws. Length should be the blade thickness plus washers
(1) .125" stop pin. Hardened steel and .42" long. Press fit into the Ti side.
(1) .25" pivot with screws. You can easily go to 3/16.
(2) washers at .015" each. Material up to you. ID should be just slightly over your pivot.
Pocket clip and hardware up to you.
As far as putting it all together... that's a whole books worth of answer right there so ask specific questions.
Mark
Last edited:
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If you can download a copy of Bob Terzoulas tactical folder book it is really helpful.
Flat parts and nice squared up holes are key.
Varga Knives gave solid advice for part sizes...
You will need a way to keep everything flat, I hand lap with sandpaper on a surface plate. For nice holes I use a center drill, drill undersize and ream with a well trammed mill (or press). There is a lot to it all and it took me a few years after my first 100 fixed blades to make a good Framelock.
Flat parts and nice squared up holes are key.
Varga Knives gave solid advice for part sizes...
You will need a way to keep everything flat, I hand lap with sandpaper on a surface plate. For nice holes I use a center drill, drill undersize and ream with a well trammed mill (or press). There is a lot to it all and it took me a few years after my first 100 fixed blades to make a good Framelock.