First Handle attempt

[chavez556]

So I have a blank I got that I'm adding handles to. I have cut out the shape and drilled the holes 9/64 and added the epoxy and pins. It is now curing in the shop. Anyway my issue is that I used 1/8 brass pins. The instructional video I watched was for corbies, not brass pins and the guy advised to drill the handle holes one size bigger than the pins.

Now there is a space between the handle, and the pins. Will the epoxy fill this gap, or can I still peen it once I cut the pins ?

Thanks,

Chavez

 

[Bo T]

There is a special drill for Corby bolts that cuts the head and shank at the same time. The fit is almost perfect. If you have wood scales, peening will cause a lot of stress when the brass starts filling the gap that you have. Too much stress and you will crack the scale. I usually mix wood from shaping the scales to the epoxy before gluing the scales or pins. This helps to hide any slight faults.

 

[Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith]

I think you misunderstood the instructions. You should drill the holes in the TANG of the knife blade larger than the pins. I usually drill them 150% of the pin size ( Corby or rivet, doesn't matter).

The holes in the handle material should be just large enough for the pins to slip in without force. I usually drill the hole 1/64" larger than the pin, but you need to check in some scrap wood first, as the pins vary in exact size.

Corby bolts have a special drill, called a counter-bore, for drilling the seated holes. They are the exact size needed for the bolt the match.

If you are referring to the handle material in you question about the knife you just glued up, the epoxy should fill the gap. It will probably hold up just fine, but it may not look as good as a proper fit.

 

[chavez556]

Thank you for the help.....

 

[Bailey Knives]

For the wood, I went to a local hardware and bought a #30 drill bit. It is just a few thousandths larger than 1/8, and it allows the pin to slip in but not have any slop.