first hidden tang, need some suggestions

quint

quint

Joined
Nov 29, 2011
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Was forging last night and a piece of 1084 wasnt cooperating the way I wanted to so went with it and ended up with a hidden tang type of knife. This wasnt the plan and I was going to wait a while before delving into this type as it looks pretty challenging.

My biggest question for this blade is what shape/style of handle do you guys think would look best on it. A classic Bowie style handle, maybe a more straight one similar to a small katana style?

Another question is I am assuming the tang should be thinned out a little to give the handle more material and the area where the tang joins the blade should have little rounded corners right.

Thanks for any input/suggestions/ areas to improve.


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Taper your tang, both width and thickness. Leave as much steel as you can where the tang meets the ricasso and file in small radius where they meet.

As for the handle, trace the blade shape and start drawing handles 'till you find what floats your boat.

Good start, keep at it....
 
Thanks Dewey, I got the radius in and some of the initial sanding done last night. Getting it ready to HT this weekend. Ill get the tang sanded to a taper as you mentioned.

One thing I am a little confused about and this may be the simplest thing ever I just am not getting it. With your guard/bolster fitment. I have read several tutorials but one small portion evades me. Is the guard suppose to butt up against the ricasso with just the tang going thru it or is it suppose to fit over the ricasso a little bit? On one tutorial I saw that it was butted up against it then basically banged onto the ricasso about 1/16" or so then cleaned up so you had a nice fit, but that was with mokume and I plan on using steel so I dont see how that would work very easily.

Thanks for any help in that area. I just wanna get the process down correctly the first time, fit and finish I know will take several blades to get a feel for.
 
I just butt my guards up against the ricasso, then solder. Go slow when you get close for a nice tight fit.

Here's what I do:

Make sure the ricasso shoulders are square. Use a file guide if you have one.

Scribe center line on whatever stock you are going to use. [I don't cut it off untill I get the slot fit. It's easier to hold 6" of stock rather than 1 1/2" when drilling,etc.]

Dill holes all the way thru that are 1 size smaller than the thicknss of your ricasso. From the BACK [handle side] I drill about 1/3rd - 1/2 of the way thru with a little larger bit, using your first holes as guides.[on 1/4" or thicker] This way you ony have to get a perfect fit on half the thickness. Connect your holes with a file or Dremel, being careful to NOT get the holes on the face too wide or sloppy. Now, get comfortable and start flattening the sides of your slot with a small flat file. I usually create a slight angle so the handle side is a bit wider than the front. Be patient and go slow, a booboo here shows from a mile away!! When you start to get close, check the fit often, every 3 - 4 file strokes.

When you are fit up to about 1/16" or less from the ricasso shoulders, put your blade in a vice [taped & sandwiched between leather]. Clamp it down good & tight in a horizontal position with access to the whole tang. Using a piece of hardwood dowel [1" or larger] with a slot cut long enough to clear the tang, hammer the guard towards the blade. You may get there the first time, or not, depends on how close you were to begin with. Tap the guard back off and look close at the face. Any place that is binding will deform the face. File a little more at the problem spots, clean up the face, and do it again. When I get real, real, real close, I cut the piece from the barstock and rough shape.

This method takes some time but it works best FOR ME. Hope it all makes sense and is helpful to you.

[This method was explained to me by Burt Foster. Thank you Burt!!! It may have been modified to fit MY needs, but close]
 
Great description. This clears up the few things I wasnt sure about. I have read Tim Zowada's guide several times but this helps alot. Thanks.
 
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