- Joined
- May 18, 1999
- Messages
- 15,395
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I received the new style AK Bowie yesterday.I couldn't hardly believe the kamis had done such a wonderful job of reproducing the prototype.
The scabbard is lovely,well sewn with only some slight puckering on the back near the point.
The embellishments on the front side are a nice touch and gives that nice hand made flavor.
The balance is about the same as on the wood one,but is a tad further out at the cho because of the tapered tang.
I really like what they did with that!
What is really surprising is that the knife Doesn't "feel" like the 2 1/4 Lbs.it is.
The blade is/was the most highly polished one I have yet seen!
The handle scales have no gap between them and the tang and are pinned on with what appears to be large steel rivets.
I think it's kind of funny because I used some roofing nails to simulate the rivets and thier placement and these are about the same size.
My first impression is that it's pretty close to what I had pictured in my mind.Very well executed in steel and horn.
The scabbard exceeded my expectations with the quality of the leather it is made from.I really like the "rough out" and the grain it shows.
Specs....
2.25 Lbs.
OAL.16 inches.
10 inch blade.
5 inch handle.
6 inch handle including the tang.
Exposed tang thickness from..
0.350 inch to 0.285 inch.
Thickness at spine..0.450 inch average.
Thickness at top of edge bevel which is distally tapered....
Back - 0.300 inch.front - 0.240 inch.
Thickness of bevel at intersection of spine.- 0.285 inch.
Thickness of first fuller approximately.- 0.190 inch.at the front,which is the only place I could get my mic's close enough to measure.
Handle circumference......
Thin part.- about 4 inches.
Thick part in center.- 4 1/4 inch. At the guard about 4 1/8 inch.
I sharpened it and the blade is nicely hardened with _Just_ a _Bit_ softer point and around the cho.
My brand new file will cut both of these places,with an older file not quite biting in as much.
Too the woodpile! I first done some stabs into the endgrain of some well seasoned oak with the knife in a hammer grip.It would penetrate a tad over 3/8",but this was with a heavily increased
grip.The first one hurt a
little.It may have went deeper if I hadn't of felt that shock on the first one.
Cliff called it right when he said it needed a bit more swell at the guard to distribute the force of the blow better.
I then turned the knife edge up and it was easier to penetrate up to 1/2" deep on a stab.That's pretty good when the width and thickness of the point are considered.It also didn't hurt as much.
I also agree with John where he said (I think)"that the handle would be better more rounded."
I should have reviewed his again before starting this one.
I grabbed an oak branch about 4" thick and proceeded to chop.
OH It Loves To CHOP!!!
It may be that being more used to this style of blade that made it easier to handle.I had very good control,but after about a dozen and a half or so chops I noticed a little hot spot at the base of my thumb.I tightened my grip again and proceeded on.I was using a V about 3" wide to chop through with and at about 1/2 way I turned it a quarter turn.After I had cleared some of the wood out I turned it on it's end and started chopping with the grain.It peeled that Red Oak Sap Wood like it was pine!
The cuts on the heart wood left a nice shiny finish.
I played with it a bit more splittin another piece of oak and doing some stabs across the grain and pulling the blade side ways.
I could get about 5/8 to 3/4 inch deep with these stabs and I was pulling good size chips of wood out with no damage to the blade.
The edge was still shaving sharp with this small amount of work.
I Like It!! A Lot!!
When I get a little time I will do as I promised and take it my "sister"s" and give it a real workout on green wood.
This will also be after I rasp the hot spot down and sand the grip with about 220 grit paper.I think it is much too slick without the standard Khukuri handle.
That's the only negative point I have found with the knife though and that will or should be easily fixed.
I also lay this onto myself as the kamis followed the design very well!
------------------
>>>>---¥vsa---->®
If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?
Khukuri FAQ
[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 14 December 1999).]
I received the new style AK Bowie yesterday.I couldn't hardly believe the kamis had done such a wonderful job of reproducing the prototype.
The scabbard is lovely,well sewn with only some slight puckering on the back near the point.
The embellishments on the front side are a nice touch and gives that nice hand made flavor.
The balance is about the same as on the wood one,but is a tad further out at the cho because of the tapered tang.
I really like what they did with that!
What is really surprising is that the knife Doesn't "feel" like the 2 1/4 Lbs.it is.
The blade is/was the most highly polished one I have yet seen!

The handle scales have no gap between them and the tang and are pinned on with what appears to be large steel rivets.
I think it's kind of funny because I used some roofing nails to simulate the rivets and thier placement and these are about the same size.

My first impression is that it's pretty close to what I had pictured in my mind.Very well executed in steel and horn.
The scabbard exceeded my expectations with the quality of the leather it is made from.I really like the "rough out" and the grain it shows.
Specs....
2.25 Lbs.
OAL.16 inches.
10 inch blade.
5 inch handle.
6 inch handle including the tang.
Exposed tang thickness from..
0.350 inch to 0.285 inch.
Thickness at spine..0.450 inch average.
Thickness at top of edge bevel which is distally tapered....
Back - 0.300 inch.front - 0.240 inch.
Thickness of bevel at intersection of spine.- 0.285 inch.
Thickness of first fuller approximately.- 0.190 inch.at the front,which is the only place I could get my mic's close enough to measure.
Handle circumference......
Thin part.- about 4 inches.
Thick part in center.- 4 1/4 inch. At the guard about 4 1/8 inch.
I sharpened it and the blade is nicely hardened with _Just_ a _Bit_ softer point and around the cho.
My brand new file will cut both of these places,with an older file not quite biting in as much.
Too the woodpile! I first done some stabs into the endgrain of some well seasoned oak with the knife in a hammer grip.It would penetrate a tad over 3/8",but this was with a heavily increased
grip.The first one hurt a
little.It may have went deeper if I hadn't of felt that shock on the first one.
Cliff called it right when he said it needed a bit more swell at the guard to distribute the force of the blow better.
I then turned the knife edge up and it was easier to penetrate up to 1/2" deep on a stab.That's pretty good when the width and thickness of the point are considered.It also didn't hurt as much.
I also agree with John where he said (I think)"that the handle would be better more rounded."
I should have reviewed his again before starting this one.
I grabbed an oak branch about 4" thick and proceeded to chop.
OH It Loves To CHOP!!!
It may be that being more used to this style of blade that made it easier to handle.I had very good control,but after about a dozen and a half or so chops I noticed a little hot spot at the base of my thumb.I tightened my grip again and proceeded on.I was using a V about 3" wide to chop through with and at about 1/2 way I turned it a quarter turn.After I had cleared some of the wood out I turned it on it's end and started chopping with the grain.It peeled that Red Oak Sap Wood like it was pine!
The cuts on the heart wood left a nice shiny finish.
I played with it a bit more splittin another piece of oak and doing some stabs across the grain and pulling the blade side ways.
I could get about 5/8 to 3/4 inch deep with these stabs and I was pulling good size chips of wood out with no damage to the blade.
The edge was still shaving sharp with this small amount of work.
I Like It!! A Lot!!

When I get a little time I will do as I promised and take it my "sister"s" and give it a real workout on green wood.
This will also be after I rasp the hot spot down and sand the grip with about 220 grit paper.I think it is much too slick without the standard Khukuri handle.
That's the only negative point I have found with the knife though and that will or should be easily fixed.
I also lay this onto myself as the kamis followed the design very well!
------------------
>>>>---¥vsa---->®
If you mix milk of magnesia with vodka and orange juice do you get a phillips screwdriver?
Khukuri FAQ
[This message has been edited by Yvsa (edited 14 December 1999).]