First knife critique

[Munskey]

On the journey to become what I would call a "Maker" I have finished the pre-heat treatment grind on my first knife using the all powerful Harbor Freight 1x30.



With the platen as is, I am having much (though not unexpected) difficulty getting the plunge lines crisp. A round file helped. And hurt. The tip was a bugger and I ended up grinding it off about .08 behind accidentally.

 

[Munskey]

All in all, I'm pleased with how #1 turned out. I learned more than I thought, I would, and I am looking forward to #2 and beyond.

I used a 1.5" wide 3/16 52100 , and a 2x4 cut at a 3.5 degree angle to get the flat grind close to right, with blaze belts in 60 and 80, then moved to 120 and finally 320 to get the deep grinds out. I'm going to flat sand the handle before sending it out for HT.

 

[Matt Rochester]

Looks good so far! Only design critique I would offer is to curve the spine a little. It looks perfectly straight. Just my preference. Make sure to post the finished knive.

 

[S.Alexander]

It's a good start. On your next one try not to take the grind all of the way up to the spine. Your grinder can get away from you and you can end up putting a divot along the spine.

Here's an example of one of mine. See how the grind stops before the spine, and the grind starts to curve towards the tip.

 

[Munskey]

Looks good so far! Only design critique I would offer is to curve the spine a little. It looks perfectly straight. Just my preference. Make sure to post the finished knive.

Putting a radius on any more than an inch or two is quite tough on this grinder, Though I think I will try on the next one. I'm hoping the wife will hook up a 2x72 in the future that has a more, shall we say, usable tool rest. Lol.

It's a good start. On your next one try not to take the grind all of the way up to the spine. Your grinder can get away from you and you can end up putting a divot along the spine.

Here's an example of one of mine. See how the grind stops before the spine, and the grind starts to curve towards the tip.

That's a good tip. I originally took the grind too high freehanding, put together a quick jig, and wow. What a difference. What looked like a relatively flat freehand was WAY far off once I jigged up. I was taken aback at how many high spots looked less significant than they were. I think I'll cut my jig to closer to 2.5 or 3 degrees, to leave a bit more on the spine.

 

[DukeHarley]

Although Ive only been making knives for a little over a year I think it looks really good for a first knife and maybe even a second or third. I see a few things that stick out that you will want to consider. As mentioned above you may want to add a bit of a curve to the spine. I'd add a few more nicely chamfered holes before HT to the handle area between the pin holes to allow for some epoxy to help with bonding and to remove a little weight.

I'm also not sure due to the pictures but on the next knife I'd leave the bevel height lower prior to HT because it looks like your into your spine with your bevels. For what it's worth on a full flat I leave my bevels about 80-90% from where I want them to finish at. I then finish grind them in after HT. If you did violate the spine area it could still be fixed prior to HT by surface grinding or flat sanding the entire blade evenly on both sides.

Also what did you take the cutting edge down to? I've had blades crinkle like a potatoe chip in heat treat due to the edge being too thin. I'd probably shoot for around .020" prior to sending it out. you have a great foundation on this one to work with man.

Keep us post as you finish this one.

Jay

 

[Brian.Evans]

I can save you some heart ache now. Your front pin hole is too far forward.

Also, you can draw file the entire length of the blade, handle included, to thin the steel a bit and bring that plunge back below the spine.

 

[Brian.Evans]

Also, I believe high temp tools had a glass platen liner for that grinder. Might be worth a look.

 

[stezann]

AAAHH, i recursively fall into digging the spine while cutting the plunge with the file, it is so easy to slip for that bloody split second isn't it?
If it is a superficial scar is pretty quick to fix things up by hand, flats on the granite plate & sandpaper... but it's a sound advice to leave anyway a small flat above the grind line before ht...thus leaving room for post ht clean up.
All considered i like your grind, very thin and also clean....nice start up!

 

[wdtorque]

More pics please.
And of your jig also?
Good start.

 

[Munskey]

Although Ive only been making knives for a little over a year I think it looks really good for a first knife and maybe even a second or third. I see a few things that stick out that you will want to consider. As mentioned above you may want to add a bit of a curve to the spine. I'd add a few more nicely chamfered holes before HT to the handle area between the pin holes to allow for some epoxy to help with bonding and to remove a little weight.

I'm also not sure due to the pictures but on the next knife I'd leave the bevel height lower prior to HT because it looks like your into your spine with your bevels. For what it's worth on a full flat I leave my bevels about 80-90% from where I want them to finish at. I then finish grind them in after HT. If you did violate the spine area it could still be fixed prior to HT by surface grinding or flat sanding the entire blade evenly on both sides.

Also what did you take the cutting edge down to? I've had blades crinkle like a potatoe chip in heat treat due to the edge being too thin. I'd probably shoot for around .020" prior to sending it out. you have a great foundation on this one to work with man.

Keep us post as you finish this one.

Jay

I'm going to add some cut outs on the handle to facilitate the epoxy (I keep T88 around, that should suffice.) The holes as drilled were mainly for my jig. Is chamferring necessary for the holes in the handle if I am just gong to end up filling them with epoxy? I eyeballed the cutting edge the whole way, ended up at .021 except for the tip, brought that down to .0175. I'm thinking that I should have left a bit on the tip to grind off after HT. Hopefully it won't warp.

I can save you some heart ache now. Your front pin hole is too far forward.

Also, you can draw file the entire length of the blade, handle included, to thin the steel a bit and bring that plunge back below the spine.

Looking at it now, it is indeed further forward than I would like. It was mainly for my jig, but I'll have to work on proportions. It looked right to double as jig and pin hole. I ended up digging into the spine a bit. I'll have to draw, it's .025 off each side I'll have to take to even it out.

AAAHH, i recursively fall into digging the spine while cutting the plunge with the file, it is so easy to slip for that bloody split second isn't it?
If it is a superficial scar is pretty quick to fix things up by hand, flats on the granite plate & sandpaper... but it's a sound advice to leave anyway a small flat above the grind line before ht...thus leaving room for post ht clean up.
All considered i like your grind, very thin and also clean....nice start up!

The round file did clean up plunge lines quite a bit, but that dig is going to cost me a lot of work to fix it.

More pics please.
And of your jig also?
Good start.

Here's a start for you.
Jig holding blade to touch up plunge lines.

Grinder side of jig. Screws get tightened down, I scribed a line to align the spine on the jig to keep it even.

2x4 cut at a slight (very) angle for jig. I'll be re-cutting it with a bit less of an angle to facilitate keeping more meat at the spine of the blade.

My jig on my very, very tiny tool rest.

Trugrit carries belts of these little grinders that make a HUGE difference in their ability. Blaze 60 is a VAST improvement and can make these a useable teaching platform if you are so inclined.

I will definitely use the critiques and suggestions in this thread to learn and move forward.

Dig your name Antlerhog
-(also) Jay