First knife finally complete!

G

googlebutt

Joined
Jun 4, 2018
Messages
110
First, I'd like to thank everyone who's offered me help throughout my time here, it's been invaluable.

I started this journey in June, it's been a wild (and expensive) ride. This knife is actually my second attempt, the first of which hasn't actually failed and will likely end up better, especially in the heat treat/tempering department.

I fully filed my first knife shaped object using a Gough jig, and while I was waiting for my Atlas, I decided to start another. My filing jig broke as I was making my first few passes on this second knife, which drove me to buy and then heavily modify a 2x42 (variable speed, etc).

I quickly transferred this second knife to the grinder, preserving my first knife, which was filed pretty nicely. Figured I'd make my mistakes on this second one.

At any rate, I made a ton of mistakes, managed to correct most of them and just plowed ahead without getting too bogged down in trying to fix them perfectly. I didn't want to toil away getting this first one perfect and getting discouraged as a result.

For example, I opted for a Hapstone v7 as my sharpening solution (this knife is my second ever attempt sharpening a knife on any system). Some water got under my clear tape that was protecting the blade, mixing with the adhesive (I assume), staining the blade as a result. I tried to get it off and realized it was actually patina'd at this point. I decided to just go for it and force a white vinegar patina. I wasn't sure how I'd like it, but with the a45 Trizact machine finish, it turned out really cool!

1080 with stabilized koa scales (tru oil + carnuba finish). The pictures don't really do the koa's figure justice, but that tru oil is magic. :

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googlebutt said:
Funny you mention that, I was just shopping for the tools to do that. I'm on a budget, so it's either sheath making stuff or more steel and scales, leaning towards the latter right now.
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You don't need a lot to make a sheath. You can get tools on aliexpress for little money
You need two leather craft needles (un-sharp) an awl or something else to make holes and something to cut a shallow grove for the threat to sit in. You could improvise the latter by cutting a shallow grove from hole to hole with a thin and sharp blade
There are other tools that can make life easier but you don't realy need them.

A knife isn't finished untill it has a sheath IMHO
 
Good job! That's an amazing first knife. I love the profile. I wish my first knife was even remotely close to that good!

Only constructive criticism I'd like to add is that there appears to still be grind lines on the edge of the tang between the scales. If you have a dremel, you can use a sanding drum to go over it and take down the big marks from the 2x42. Then it's pretty easy to clean it up by hand sanding with a nice hard sanding block.
 
Good job.
My eye immediately goes to the lanyard hole being so close to the edge of the scales. This may cause the wood to chp out in use.
The blade probably could have used an hour more finish sanding, but it is well shaped and the design is solid.
I especially like that you put the choil where it belongs.
 
Hengelo_77 said:
You don't need a lot to make a sheath. You can get tools on aliexpress for little money
You need two leather craft needles (un-sharp) an awl or something else to make holes and something to cut a shallow grove for the threat to sit in. You could improvise the latter by cutting a shallow grove from hole to hole with a thin and sharp blade
There are other tools that can make life easier but you don't realy need them.

A knife isn't finished untill it has a sheath IMHO
Click to expand...

I just looked through my tools and I actually have a free leather specific items, looks like I just need a groover, overstitch wheel and contact cement.

Michael Black said:
Good job! That's an amazing first knife. I love the profile. I wish my first knife was even remotely close to that good!

Only constructive criticism I'd like to add is that there appears to still be grind lines on the edge of the tang between the scales. If you have a dremel, you can use a sanding drum to go over it and take down the big marks from the 2x42. Then it's pretty easy to clean it up by hand sanding with a nice hard sanding block.
Click to expand...

I was racking my brain on how to deal with the under side without a small wheel attachment, thanks!

Stacy E. Apelt - Bladesmith said:
Good job.
My eye immediately goes to the lanyard hole being so close to the edge of the scales. This may cause the wood to chp out in use.
The blade probably could have used an hour more finish sanding, but it is well shaped and the design is solid.
I especially like that you put the choil where it belongs.
Click to expand...

That credit goes to you, I stumbled across a post of yours stating that the choil should be bisected by the plunge line!
 
You have a good eye. The proportions look good. Nice handle shape. The finish will improve as you progress. What seemed insurmountable on this blade will be a piece of cake on the next one. :)
 
Really nice. Thats a knife you'll keep forever. I think you'll be happy with the hapstone, it's a good system. I think you can still get the rotating clamp for the v7 through jende industries. It really takes it to the next level.
 
I stopped using those wheels and just use a ruler and mark with a pen/pencil
 
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