First knife for a friend.

[Gendry]

So, frankly I don't even like the idea of giving it away, because it's only like my 15th knife or so, and my second attempt at making a handle. I made one like this just before, for a work knife, and he seen it and wanted one too. I told him it wouldn't be a proper knife, poor heat treating, poor looks, but he wanted it anyways, said he liked how it looked good but not too professional..

Anyways, I suppose I need to remove some of the glue that seeped out onto the blade, and polish it up nice, then put a final razor edge on it.

 

[Brian.Evans]

Is that pine on the handle?

 

[Maelstrom78]

Heck you have to give them away. They'll just pile up on your workbench anyway. (Just like mine).

 

[Gendry]

Is that pine on the handle?

I honestly have no idea... Like I said, its my second handle, sooo I made it out of lathe, free and expendable if I messed it up... Whatever wood that is, then I gave it a couple coats of motor oil to give it some shine lol.

I actually have a shitload of nice maple from an old dresser, but it's too thick, I have to get a belt sander to thin it out before I can use it for handles.

 

[Omega Leather Works]

Motor oil isn't good for skin contatct. I'd just use mineral oil if nothing else it's usually a household item. Olive oil, coconut oil, many things I'd use before motor oil. Danish and blo are very inexpensive if you are going to continue using non-stabilized woods.

I'm sure the others will give you good constructive criticism on the knife itself. I'm curious what steel that is, and what heat treat protocol you used to harden and temper it.

 

[Gendry]

I was at home depot today, and I seen a nice belt sander that would be perfect for thinning out my nice hardwood, and shaping it. Though, it was $150.. Not totally outside of my budget, I considered it, but in the end I decided money would be too tight before payday if I bought it. Next paycheck for sure. I can't wait to use some of this nice hardwood maple for handles, but like I said, it's too thick to use right now, in the way of putting a piece on each side of the handle. Of course, it is thick enough to drill a hole in and just stick a thin knife (tang? That's what you call it?) in, and then glue and form it from there. Actually, might try that tomorrow.

How do you guys form your handles? I have been basically very carefully whittling down the wood to shape (messed up a couple getting too aggressive..) and then just spending a half hour, 45 minutes attacking it with sandpaper from all angles. It works, but it takes a long time, even longer then I think it should.

 

[Gendry]

Motor oil isn't good for skin contatct. I'd just use mineral oil if nothing else it's usually a household item. Olive oil, coconut oil, many things I'd use before motor oil. Danish and blo are very inexpensive if you are going to continue using non-stabilized woods.

I'm sure the others will give you good constructive criticism on the knife itself. I'm curious what steel that is, and what heat treat protocol you used to harden and temper it.

Fair enough, no more motor oil finishes. I shall find something better.

Well, the steel... The best I have access too at the moment is 1040 sheeting, and barstock.. 10 seems to imply that it is carbon steel, and the 40 suggests that it has .40% carbon, no? Seems like it's not the best steel for a knife, yet, it could be worse. At least I know what it is, and it does in fact harden very well, even with my poor technique, a file can't even scratch it once it's been quenched.. (Raise it slightly above magnetic in heat, dunk in water.) For the temper, I just put it in my oven at 500 for 2 hours, then cooled with water. While I'm sure that's not the exact way to do it, I can't complain with the results, the steel is very hard, and still has a little bend to it. As this is all just practice for now, I am working on things like my craftman ship, and how to use the tools, ect. Once I am happy with my results, the science behind treating the steel is something my mind can easily work with and figure out I'm sure, always been better in that area then the hands on type thing.

 

[S.Alexander]

I was at home depot today, and I seen a nice belt sander that would be perfect for thinning out my nice hardwood, and shaping it. Though, it was $150.. Not totally outside of my budget, I considered it, but in the end I decided money would be too tight before payday if I bought it. Next paycheck for sure. I can't wait to use some of this nice hardwood maple for handles, but like I said, it's too thick to use right now, in the way of putting a piece on each side of the handle. Of course, it is thick enough to drill a hole in and just stick a thin knife (tang? That's what you call it?) in, and then glue and form it from there. Actually, might try that tomorrow.

How do you guys form your handles? I have been basically very carefully whittling down the wood to shape (messed up a couple getting too aggressive..) and then just spending a half hour, 45 minutes attacking it with sandpaper from all angles. It works, but it takes a long time, even longer then I think it should.

If your budget is fairly low, then you should use some rasps and files to get the general shape of your handle, and then sandpaper to clean it up.

Also, 30-45 minutes is NOT a long time when you are knife making. Take as much time as you need to make something right, or you will never be happy with it.

 

[Gendry]

If your budget is fairly low, then you should use some rasps and files to get the general shape of your handle, and then sandpaper to clean it up.

Also, 30-45 minutes is NOT a long time when you are knife making. Take as much time as you need to make something right, or you will never be happy with it.

I know, I put that wrong. I realize this is a time consuming hobby, and I am fine with that. It's just that the techniques I am using right now are amateur, ineffective, and potentially damaging to my final product. I have no problem spending hours on a piece of wood for a nice knife, my stress comes from my lack of experience, proper tools and technique. and poor results for now, though I am not near ready to give up.

 

[i4Marc]

I like the design. It's a little light on "style" but that will come in time. Next time start with some drawings. Post them here and get some feedback on the design. After you have that worked out make a template or mock up of the blade out of cardboard, hardboard, plexiglass or some other fairly stiff material with a little thickness to it. Then go slowly, taking the time to do every step with precision and care the very best you can. A few knives done well will teach you far more than a lot of knives made without focus. You don't really need a belt sander for the handle. You will be surprised how fast rasps, files and sandpaper will get you there. It is very gratifying and also scary when someone likes your work enough to ask for one. On one hand you feel kinda proud but also a little scared because it's not as nice as you'd like or may not be heat treated well enough etc. It's ok. Make them a knife. Every knife you make is more experience. As long as you represent it fairly as to your level of experience the recipient will understand what they are getting. If you stick with making knives, and you should, you will get much better. There are lots of very talented and knowledgeable folks who contribute here. Keep checking in with your progress and asking for feedback, advice and technical help. You will get better much faster than trying to figure it all out by yourself.

 

[Gendry]

I like the design. It's a little light on "style" but that will come in time. Next time start with some drawings. Post them here and get some feedback on the design. After you have that worked out make a template or mock up of the blade out of cardboard, hardboard, plexiglass or some other fairly stiff material with a little thickness to it. Then go slowly, taking the time to do every step with precision and care the very best you can. A few knives done well will teach you far more than a lot of knives made without focus. You don't really need a belt sander for the handle. You will be surprised how fast rasps, files and sandpaper will get you there. It is very gratifying and also scary when someone likes your work enough to ask for one. On one hand you feel kinda proud but also a little scared because it's not as nice as you'd like or may not be heat treated well enough etc. It's ok. Make them a knife. Every knife you make is more experience. As long as you represent it fairly as to your level of experience the recipient will understand what they are getting. If you stick with making knives, and you should, you will get much better. There are lots of very talented and knowledgeable folks who contribute here. Keep checking in with your progress and asking for feedback, advice and technical help. You will get better much faster than trying to figure it all out by yourself.

As far as my design, what you suggested, is actually pretty much exactly what I have been doing for the last 10 knives or so.. I will either find a picture of a cool knife and use that, or modify it slightly to my liking in photoshop, print it out, paste it onto hard cardboard, cut it out. From there I can feel what it is like, and see what needs to be changed. From there I trace it into my steel if I am just removing stock, and go from there.
Eventually I will try to come up with my own, totally original designs, I am good with that kind of thing, I did a lot of graphic design in my past... For now, like I think I have said, I need to focus of my application of techniques with the tools and learn them inside and out, THAT is the hardest thing about this, from there, it should go well.. I am creative, I am not unintelligent, I do like to research, and I can understand the principals behind such things as hardening specific steel, or what steel is best for what, ect.. My biggest frustrations are, I have never, ever done any hands on "crafts" like this before so I have no experience. I have rarely used these types of tools before (13,000 RPM grinders... 2700 degree fires.. 30,000 degree plasma arcs... These are serious numbers...) I find power tools scary, despite my safety precautions..

I actually never considered using a file to remove wood material before.. That seems like it would work.. Just like, a regular steel bastard file perhaps? I have heard of "rasps" before, but am unsure what they are exactly.. Will look those up after I post this.. Though, I can't help but think how great it would be to just press a piece of hardwood onto a spinning belt for a few minutes and take half the thickness away, just like that. Unless I am seriously advised otherwise, I think $150 or so would be a good investment for fast wood material removal alone, I do intend to take this seriously, and stick it out for the long haul..

You nailed my feelings.. I was amazed somebody seriously seemed to think my knives were good enough to ask for one, while I am thinking they are little more then bits of sharp, shiny steel... He has seen it so far, and really likes it... I mean, I don't, not really. I could have taken more time, really made it nicer, but he specifically did tell me "Don't go overboard, I want a rough homemade looking knife." I have already decided that in a few months time, once I have my bulk 1084 steel, nice hardwood, and more experience, I will take 20 or 30 hours to make a real knife for this guy to take into the field and hunt with.

 

[i4Marc]

I hope you didn't take from my comments that I thought you were unintelligent in any way. We all come from different backgrounds and experiences. You will discover in time what your natural strengths are. The things that don't come naturally can be learned. I come from an art background. I was always good making things with my hands. I thought when I started my knifemaking journey that I would be a natural but was not. What I am trying to say is that I don't think in the beginning anyone is a natural at this craft (except for maybe Kyle Hanson :grumpy. It is deceiving in it's complexity. It SEEMS simple. It's just a sharpened piece of metal, right? Um, yes and not really. If you are good with your hands and you bring talents from other parts of your life your learning curve will be steeper but regardless of the angle of your learning curve, anyone can learn what they need to know to make great knives with determination. My comments to you were meant as encouraging. But I wanted to push you a little too. Think big. Make excellence a part of your game plan starting with your very first knife. If you make 10, 30 or 50 knives and they all look the same ( I mean in the beginning, not when you are making a series of professional looking knives later on) you are not pushing yourself to improve. You absolutely have it in you to make great knives but you have to be your own toughest critic. Your tools and resources may be limited now but you acquire those things over time. Just do your best effort with what you have and strive to make each knife better than the last. If the belt sander is within your budget go ahead and get it. There are lots of uses for a belt grinder besides shaping handles. Rasps are just like files but much more coarse. You can get files and rasps at your local Harbor Freight for a couple of bucks. It sounds like you have a game plan. That's good. If you have the time, look at A LOT of knives. Begin to get a feel for how great knife makers design their knives; the blades, the handles, guards, sheaths. Develop an eye for how the different parts of a knife come together and create a flow from the tip to the butt. Try to design in some curves for a less stiff and more organic feel both visually and ergonomically (unless you are going for an angular look on purpose). Draw upon your art background. A knife isn't just a tool. It's a companion. People develop emotional attachments to knives they value (just ask Joe Paranee what he thinks of his Lurquin Hurak). It should work well but it should look and feel good too.You're doing fine. Just start taking a closer look at the finer details on the next one. Maybe give a little curve to the line at the forward edge of the handle. Maybe make the butt end of the handle a little wider than the front. Definitely try to get a graceful, continuous curve to the cutting edge. Try to bring your tip to a nice sharp point. Maybe it's just the shadow in your picture but the tip looks a bit soft. Strive to make your bevel grind lines crisp and smooth. Try to get the flats on the sides of your blade nice and flat. You can use tape or spray adhesive to apply a sheet of sandpaper to a piece of glass or a granite surface plate or other very flat surface to sand against. In any case, your friend will be very pleased with your knife.

 

[Brian.Evans]

I've been thinking about this all day. I've written and rewritten it a couple times. So, I'm just going to say it bluntly. Please don't take offense.

You have two choices, do stuff the right way, or do stuff the wrong way.

Now that being said, there is a LOT of fun doing stuff the wrong way, but in the end, you have a knife that is only kinda a knife. More a knife shaped object.

You are going to have to spend some money on supplies to make a knife. It doesnt have to be much. 1084 steel from Aldo is cheap. Files are relatively cheap. Sandpaper and rasps are cheap. Handle material can be oak or maple or walnut, go to a local cabinet shop and ask for cutoffs. If you tell them what its for they will likely just give them to you!

Find Stacy's sticky on how to make a knife and follow it exactly.

Go to Bob Engnath's site, look through the patterns until you find one that speaks to you and print it out, copy it to the steel and start cutting/filing.

Do this the right way and you'll have some great knives. Heck man, you've already made 15 the hard way! You could really make some great knives if you just studied the details of knife making. Every detail is important because the individual details when combined become the whole knife.

Hopefully that doesn't come off like a jerk, that isnt my intention.

 

[S.Alexander]

A half round wood rasp is what you need. It will hog off handle material in no time. Has both a round and flat side for shaping in different handle areas.



Or a cheap 3x21 belt sander would also work well for removing wood material. It's what I first used on my handle materials. I just flipped it over and clamped it down to my bench. That way your can use it as a horizontal belt sander. It would probably run you about $40.