first knife questions

J

jraney

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Aug 6, 2010
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i am thinkin about using some 1095 high carbon steel it is 3/32x2"x18".
would this be a good steel to start with being my first knife and all?
also i cut a small limb off of a walnut tree this past weekend what do i need to do to it now, a guy from work said to soak it in a bucket of water for a long period of time so it would not split, is this the best thing to do or not?
i know the wood is going to need to dry for some time and i am not planning
on it going on my first knifeso it is no big deal on the curing time but i would like to know for future purposes. also the metal i am going to get is annealed flat stock is this what i need to be successfull in my first attempt? that is all i can think of for right now but i am sure something will come to me later when i am laying in bed unable to sleep thinkin of how i want to biuld this knife any probably many more so if you all will just bear with me and i will try to listen and learn.

thanks

j
 
Seems to be a common starting steel. Although, it's a bit thin and I recently learned that thinner stock is harder to bevel than thicker. What kind of knife are you thinking of?
 
I would not recommend 3/32 1095 as a starter steel. 3/16 1084 or 5160 would be a much better choice.

The branch should have the ends cut again ( cut off about 1") and then painted with exterior paint ( paint the cut ends only). Set aside in a cool and dry place for about a year for a 6" limb, and for 2 years for a 12" limb. You don't want to soak it in a bucket of water, BTW. Hopefully you cut a long enough piece, about 2 feet is a good size. Too short and it splits end to end.
 
i could not find any 1084 or 5160 at jantz supply. the reason i am using jantz is becuase i live within driving distance of them and it would be easier for me. so should i try something thicker if possible?
 
I've only bought stainless so I wouldn't know about 1095, but I would definitely listen to Stacy.

Thinner is harder because it's a much shallower angle and you easily grind on the flat instead of the bevel. At least that's what I've been told, and have found from experience.
 
Jantz doesn't carry a great variety of steel.
If you are going to do your own HT, 1095 is a tough one to start on. Add to that the warp problems of thin blades and you may get disappointing results. If you are only getting your steel from Jantz, use their PG O-1. I still wouldn't go thinner than 1/8" for a first project. Another good choice would be to use CPM-154 stainless steel, and send it out for HT. That type can be as thin as you wish.
 
Yup, 1095 has a soak time and a very short time from critical to quench. 1084 and 5160 are much more forgiving to the newbie. That being said, its not impossible to heat treat yourself but you got enough to worry about on your first knife so you might as well make it easier for yourself.
 
well i was already planning on sending it somewhere to be heat treated. i don't think i will ever understand that part of the biuld so better let the ones who know do the work.
plus it is just a small price to pay to make sure it is done right. that being said i want to make this knife as cheaply as possible and i will be doing all this with just hand tools so which steel would be best, high carbon, 440c, or cpm-154?
 
i am not real concerned about the amount of time and effort i have to put forth i just don't want it to be wasted on something to thin or not be suitable for the job i made it for. what would be the thinest you all would suggest i know i can get some of the stainless steel up to 1/4:" but i really don't want anything that thick also. i am really trying not to bore you all just really want some answers it is starting to effect my sleep.
 
Since your gonna send out for H/T get some 1/8" 440-C and get going.440-c will make a good knfe if H/T ed properly and is inexpensive.Since your gonna do it with files and sandpaper I wouldn't go any thicker than 1/8".
Stan
 
jraney
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Stan
 
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