First knife sharpener?

Hey thanks to you guys I didn't waste $ on a Lansky system. I was looking at getting one for a while now, but now I'll go with the DMT system or the EdgePro.
 
AKnife,
I started a thread just like yours here and on another forum. Exactly the same except for one thing. Everyone picked different sharpeners for the same reason. This is not the first time I have researched this issue all with the same results. When you are new at sharpening and ask for advice on a system. You will get 20 responses all claiming that their system is the best. I’m by no means putting these fellow knife nuts down at all. It’s just an observation about US. It's funny because we're sick freaks.:D

I ended up with the Lansky because as many hated it in this thread, they loves it on other threads. Some hated it, some hate DMT, some hate Sharpmaker. Few hated Edge Pro. That was to much in my opinion for a beginner to get down. This is a one step at a time process. Bottom line, Do some research, pick a system and just start learning. God love our fellow forumites. But when it comes to sharpeners. Know body will agree.:confused: But their input is helpful because they have all been there before. BTW: My Lansky comes tomorrow and YES I did buy the stand thanks to help from BF. OK, I’m done.
 
Sandpaper on a mouse pad, seriously. I have a Lansky kit, and a tri-hone, and the sandpaper is by far the better of the three systems. I like convex edges, so the sandpaper on a mouse pad works perfectly. I'm not actually using a mouse pad; I'm using that non-slip rubber stuff that you line kitchen cabinets with.

I get all my sandpaper from Harbor Freight because they're the only place local that has high grit, wet/dry sandpaper.

I use a 250 grit for the initial convexing of the edge, then procede to 500, and to 1000, 1500, and 2500. Then strop it on the phone book (clay coated paper).

I use dawn/water in a spray bottle as lube.

I can get my blades uniformly sharp enough to shave with, which isn't really that sharp; but it is a good working edge. I'm still working on technique, which seems to differ between steels, blade shapes, and sizes.
 
In addition to convex sharpening, sandpaper is also good for a straight V bevel (with a hard back instead of the mouse pad), a really cheap way to try out free hand sharpening, or add additional grits to your existing gadget sharpening system.

A leather strop is also a good backing for sandpaper for convex sharpening.

A little strip of leather on a paint stick + a few strips of different grit wet and dry paper makes a very light, small, packable, portable, and cheap free hand sharpening system. Great for carry along in the pack or luggage and for survival situations.

Make your own or buy one here with the compound.

Watch the convex sharpening videos and how to make a strop here. Video #5 covers making a bench strop. The last video (#11) covers making and packing a field strop on a paint stick. Pretty slick and works well for maintaining a convex edge. Convex is probably the easiest edge to maintain in improvised situations.

I like some knives with a convex edge and others with a V grind.

Just remember when using sandpaper to use trailing edge (stropping) strokes so you don't cut into the paper or scrap off the grit too fast. Also if using paper loose (not glued down) the blade edge needs to be pulled away form the paper edge that is being support (pinched with the fingers against the stick) so the paper doesn't roll up behind the edge and round it off excessively.
 
I bought the DMT Aligner with the diafold stones and the magnetic arm. Like others I tried it out on an old folder. Works well within it's limitations. Noticed the instructions indicate the clamp is only good for knive blades up to 3/8" thick. The angles per setting indicated in their documentation are rather ballpark compared to the idea of basic 30 and 40 degree inclusive angles. I think you'd have to measure your work somehow to really know what you're getting. It did put a nice bevel on a folder blade rather quickly with the Xcoarse and coarse diamond diafold. I suspect each time you mount the clamp there's some difference in the edge you grind unless you somehow place the clamp in exactly the same spot each time.

I also have a spyderco sharpmaker and after playing around with clamps and moving the stone around on the DMT Aligner, I really appreciate the simplicity of the sharpmaker.
 
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With any method of sharpening you will save a lot of time if you can keep the existing bevel angles. If you want to change the angels most of the little gizmo's are not great for this.

Free hand sharpening, the EdgePro and the DMT Aligner used with a bench stone as a guide would be some exceptions that come to mind. The DMT is also sold just for use with bench stones (without the guide rods and stones) if you have your own bench stones or want to invest in them for free hand use later. It is also only about $10 by itself.
 
So what you guys are saying is that these “systems” with the alighners are not the best way to sharpen. That’s good because this is what I’m hearing from all the folks like yourself who know what they are doing. If I’m correct, it’s a good way for a beginner to get an edge and learn the basics along the way? Because I honestly have no idea what most of you guys are talking about otherwise.:confused: Right over my head.:)

Please tell me I got that much down.
Thanks.
C1
 
I think a good way to go is a clamp system for reprofiling, a crock stick system for touch ups, and a strop for the final edge.
 
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