First knife to sell....

silver_pilate

silver_pilate

Joined
Oct 30, 2002
Messages
3,974
This is the first I will be selling. I made it for a former patient of mine, and he's getting a free pass for a knife in the future along with a discount here.

-Full flat grind 5/32" O1 finished with very slight convex; full quench and triple temper, spine drawn back with torch.
-Linen micarta
-NS, stainless, copper Posner mosaic pin
-stainless lanyard tube
-vulcanized red spacers
-sharp:eek:

Hope you enjoy it!

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--nathan
 
I'm waiting on a rivet press and dies, then I may rivet the sheath and grind it down vs. the chicagos.

--nathan
 
Thanks Nathan and Original!

Also, forgot to mention if you can't see it, zero edge grind (no secondary bevel).

--nathan
 
Thanks guys!

Zero edge at the customer's request. That's also partly why I finished with a convex, to give a wee bit more meat behind the edge. Kinda looks and feels like a mini, flattened samurai sword. Also makes it look slick :).

I've always prefered the rounded pommel that fits right into the meat of your palm by the 5th digit for daily/general users. Very comfortable to hold and very secure, especially for a push, and they don't print as much for concealed carry under a shirt. For a heavy user I prefer a larger handle past the fifth didgit.

--nathan
 
Hey Nathan,

This is the first pics I've seen of your work, and it looks really great! What does your logo mean/say, and if you don't mind sharing trade secrets with a newbie, how did you finish the micarta and blade?
 
Thanks, P J.

The blade etch is a backwards "B" with a "K" coming off of it standing for Burgess Knives. I know it's vague, and I know I need to invest in a maker's stamp to better id. my work, but I'm trying to be on the cheap lately (getting married).

I don't mind sharing at all, as I'm pretty close to being a newbie myself :D, and I would know nothing if it weren't for all the wonderful makers on this site who have helped me in the past. I shape my handles mainly on the belt. I grind bevels to get the edge of the micarta down to thickness, and I then switch to the slack belt to shape the meat of the handle. I start out at 80 grit for most of the shaping, moving to 150, to 220, and to 400 grit progressively. I hold the knife parallel to the floor, but I continuously rotate the knife back and forth from spine to edge side of the handle to get a nice shape. I finish the handle with a very flexible 800 grit slack belt. Then I clamp the blade in the vise with leather, and I use files or sandpaper on backing sticks to shape or round off the finger areas if needed. I finish that with a 1" strip of used up 600 grit belt (because it's what I have) using a wrap around and shoe-shine motion. This smooths out all the edges. Lastly, it's over to the buffing wheel with white compound for a little pollish.

I finish my blades by hand. I try to be carefull when grinding to avoid deep gouges from larger grit belts (don't push too hard). Then I hand sand prior to heat treat from 220 to 400 grit with honing oil. I heat treat, temper, draw the spine, etc. and then take it to the grinder for a couple of light passes at 400 to remove scale. Then I start again at 220 by hand with a micarta backing block with honing oil and work up to 320 and 400, eventually finishing at 600 grit with the paper around my thumb. This goes pretty quick if you do a good job cleaning up prior to heat treat. I then tape the blade, fix and shape the handle, and perform any finish work before I let the knife leave the shop. I still have a little hand finishing at 600 to do on this knife as well as a quick fresh sharpening (been slicing things up for grins) before Blake gets it.

--nathan
 
I kind of like the simplicity of the maker's mark, I just couldn't quite tell what it was. Thanks for the finishing lesson as well, it was far more than I was hoping for and I've book marked this page so I can refer back to it!
 
Thanks everyone! Gonna call him up today and see if he likes it. If not, I'll sell it and make him something else. Wish me luck.

On another note, be careful while hand finishing knives that are sharp :D. I sliced myself in the index finger when I went a little too far on one sanding pass (different knife), even with a micarta backing block. I washed and superglued it up, then stabbed myselft HARD right next to the first cut not a minute later. That one bled profusely, and I had to pressure wrap it to get it to stop bleeding. After that, I just went to bed: live to fight (and bleed) another day. I superglued it this morning, but cut some cutaneous nerves and it's a bit tender and numb at the same time. Now I can say I truly put blood and sweat into the knife!

--nathan
 
Nice knife, though I don't care for the flat head screws/rivets on the sheath, just screams 1980. Torque head screws is the modern application that this sheath needs.
 
Good call. I agree about the flat heads, but it's all I've got right now. As I said, I'd like to rivet using kydex rivets for a cleaner look. Just gotta wait to mid April for that.

--nathan
 
Beautiful knife Nathan, super fine look and just the right size for a necker or an edc belt knife!
Umm, how much it selling for?
 
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