first liner lock folder help

sweet!
all this help is wnderful!
another forumite is helping me with some Ti..
but that leads to another question.. so i cut the lock.. how do i bend the Ti so that it will want to spring over? just bend it? or do i use heat?

i appreciate your comments about my skills.. but.. the results you see are more adue to help like this than my skill..
(p.s. all i have is a $100 (but free for me) drill press..) however.... i have access to a couple milling machines... *grins* i love working at NASA
thanks again!
~chris
 
just bend it. I personally prefer 15n20 for liners and locks. It is also nice and springy as it comes and you can solder bolsters etc. to it. it is also easier to drill and tap.
 
In Terzuola's book, he notches a piece of wood the depth of the lock, puts the liner in the vise and then with the notch slipped over the lock spring with the edge of the wood close to the end of the cut (in the middle of the liner), slowly bends, releases, bends, releases until it is the right angle. This way the wood supports the Ti to keep it from bending unevenly. Also, once the knife is all together, open to the locked position and rap the spine on a soft wood block to set the lock and blade angle. It will also test to see if the lockup is firm (so watch your fingers when you do it!).
 
Chris I can’t wait to see what you do with this.
Your work shames me.

Bob's book is great, photos are dark and not colour, but all good content.
I wish i had bought a few before they went out of print, can't find it now.

“I don’t have a detent ball... but can I use a very small ball bearing?”
Click to expand...

A ball bearing is the whole unit, inner race, outer race and steel balls.

The knifemaking suppliers all sell detent balls

You could also buy loose balls known as rolling stock from industrial bearing suppliers.
You will want the stainless 440C as opposed to the 52100 alloy steel
Less prone to rust

http://www.texasknife.com/vcom/product_info.php?products_id=2041

(And no it doesn’t hurt to have 100. count on losing a few.


Titanium liners
Just buy sheet titanium instead of milling it down from bar.
Faster, nicer finish…
6Al 4V is the alloy that acts as a spring. (6% Aluminum and 4 % Vanadium in the alloy)
Commercially pure titanium is not suitable as a spring.

.040” to .070” has been suggested.
Depending in your design, .070” may seem too stiff?? Up to you.
The shorter the spring, the stiffer it will feel.

Halpern titanium
http://www.halperntitanium.com/default.htm

http://halperntitanium.com/pdf/pricing_titanium.pdf
They will shear it to usable size if you specify- nice service-


Chuck Bybee at Alpha Supply
http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/

http://www.alphaknifesupply.com/ti-small.htm


Aluminum Scales (not liner)
Aluminum will not grind nicely, it will mush and smear. It’s very messy.
However, it will drill, tap, mill, file, and hand sand very easily.

You may consider using carbon fibre, or g10 as scale material.
It will grind nicely.
 
thanks steven!
that is alot of really good info! i really appreciate it!
actually.. another forumie just sent me some titanium and some detendt balls, and pivots and he like... great guy.

but on the topic of detend balls.. how far do you drill the hole for the detent ball to sit in.. and do you gle ut in? solder it? what?

i have some carbon fiber, and some more exotic stuff.. i may try some of that.. but the titanium liners are gonna be good... it is .63"

so after i cut the lock, i just bend it over for the lock?

i am really looking forward to doing this... and actually will prolly modify the design a bit after reading a bunch of tutorials... but thank you for the kind words.. this forum keeps me from having to learn things the hard way.

thanks so much!
Chris
 
Chris

The detent ball is a pressed in fit.
P 98 of Bob’s book

For a 1/16” (.0625) ball:
Drill a through hole using a #53 number drill .0595”
This is a .003” interference fit.

Press/hammer it in, leaving it show above the liner just a few thousandths less than the thickness of your washers.




Bending the lock:
P 102 of Bob’s book

Do this before grinding the lock face.

Like TekSec said-

You want to put the bend in as a long arcing curve along the front 2/3, not one sharp bend.

Using a piece of bar from wood, plastic or whatever, have a small slot at one end perpendicular to the length of the bar. Taking small bites bend a little at a time all along the spring. (Or could use a press and curved dies)
 
I Just wanted to add, only bend it until it reaches the other side of the opening, almost touching the other liner. If you bend it too far, it will be too stiff and hard to unlock. It will also place too much pressure on the detent ball and blade.

If the detent allows the blade to open too easily, it can be bent a little further.

Best wishes, Don
 
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