First Linerlock WIP

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Jan 8, 2007
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After a lot of reading and planning and parts gathering I have started on my first linerlock. I know many people that get into knife making to make big blades, but my goal has always been to be able to make a folder that I could carry every day. I know, I know, a small fixed blade is handy and I have those too...but I digress. This isn't intended as a how-to, but maybe some of the responses from more experienced makers will help people like me. Also, taking pics as I go has given me even more respect for those who have made the really great and detailed WIPs on this forum, so a huge thank you to those people. Now let's talk about the knife...the blade is about 3.5" give or take, desert tan g10, 3/16 pivot from alpha knife supply, 2-56 screws, hardened 440c .1559 stop pin, .063 titanium liner. The blade for now is plain old .145" 1095. I'm making this knife as a template and I'll make a new blade later...stand by for pics
 
Ok, I guess I have to be a paid member to upload attachments? Been meaning to do that anyway so quick pause while I take care of that. Stay tuned!
 
Ok, I thought I took way more pics than this...but here's what I have. Oh yeah, the blade in the pic with all the pieces separated was a mess-up...the second one I ground crooked, so it will have to be redone as well...thank goodness for cheap steel. :)
 

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Also to give credit where credit is due, this is based on a drawing for they yet to be released bark river bravo folder, but smaller dimensions. I hope that's not a no-no, as I'm not making this for profit, I figured it wouldn't be hurting anyone.
A couple of issues that I've run into so far and would appreciate any input:
1. I've read that a standard drill bit can be used for getting the pivot head flush with the scales. I tried this and it seemed to make the pivot cant to the side...I'm thinking this means I have too much play in the diameter of the pivot shaft, but it wasn't crooked before, and I drilled and reamed the hole.
2. I still need some grinding practice, as the blade tapers unevenly on the spine towards the tip. I flat ground this blade and as I near the tip, I pull the handle towards me...is this how other people do it?
3. Referencing #1, anyone know where to find a .290 counterbore with a smaller than .1875 pilot? And for the other side, I've found my keep jig bit is perfect, but if I ever do metal bolsters I'll have to find something else.
4. I'm about to the point where I need to cut the lock, and I'll be doing the dremel cutoff wheel in drill press method...any advice on that?
5. I guess that's it for now.
 
Just thought of another question...on the stop pin, I installed with press fit on the lock side. Would there be an issue doing the same thing with the female side of the pivot?
 
1. I've read that a standard drill bit can be used for getting the pivot head flush with the scales. I tried this and it seemed to make the pivot cant to the side...I'm thinking this means I have too much play in the diameter of the pivot shaft, but it wasn't crooked before, and I drilled and reamed the hole.


Just thought of another question...on the stop pin, I installed with press fit on the lock side. Would there be an issue doing the same thing with the female side of the pivot?

What scale material are you using? I've pretty much been using a regular drill bit to counter bore all of my screws. I would think that maybe your drill press setup isn't very square, but if you're using it to drill and ream your pivots and pins, then it's probably not the problem.

As for the second one, I don't see a problem with that, I thought AKS pivots were specifically designed to be press fit on one side. Only thing that might be an issue at all is getting everything lined up during assembly. I usually go with a snug slip fit, but what do I know, I'm barely half way through my third folder.
 
I forgot to say, nice design by the way. I'm looking forward to seeing how that knife and this WIP turns out!
 
I definitely need to look up some articles on making sure my press is square. It's an older craftsman 15" floor model. The handle scales are g10, and I can't take credit for the design but I hope to come up with my own on a later attempt.
 
Probably a good idea to check for squareness anyways, especially if you're doing folders.

Lots of different ways to do it. You can put a big rod in your chuck and butt up a square against it, you can use a bent coat hanger and see that it touches the table evenly throughout its whole sweep, or you can use a dial test indicator. I used a $15 dial indicator, some paper shims, and a little jig I made in 15 minutes.

RDF79Da.jpg
 
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