First plate quench results

Dan Pierson

Dan Pierson

Joined
Nov 24, 2003
Messages
2,357
A while ago I mentioned that I was switching from O1 to A2, at least for thinner blades because of problems getting a good coat with PBC (and the total failure of white out).

Here's the first set of blades just out of the foil. While the pic doesn't capture the subtle colors, it does show how clean they are. Wow :D:D:D:D this is soooooo much nicer than oil quenching.

First plate quenched blades.
 
i have been thinking about switching over to air hardening steel. how feasible is it to forge it?
 
Just a quick note, which I notice on your blades (I think) Definitely if you haven't already or for next time, clean off the blades with acetone before you put it into the stainless steel foil and the color should come out an even rainbow tone without the white steel colored spots...which unless you are grinding completely the layer off, is a real bitch to sand off by hand and will show a ghostly pattern to it. Using a buffer makes this alot easier, but definitely clean off the blades very very well before putting into kiln and the tone should be very even.

And if you did completely clean off your blades with acetone or some kind of solvent, I am nuts and don't listen to me! I notice that happening to 2 of my blades on saturday when I didn't take my own advice. It doesn't do anything to the actual hardening, but is a real pain in the arse if you're hand sanding the blade.
 
Dan, I too like plate quenching deep hardening steels. Your shallow and medium hardening steels can be coated properly with PBC. A part of what I learned early on is that the steel need be completely heated through out its cross section before coating. I never dip the blade into the PBC. I prefer to sprinkle onto the blade and then place back into oven for another heat up for a second PBC coating to catch any blade areas possibly missed. Plates are great for me for deep hardening steels but where PBC is needed I preheat to 550 F. and hold blade at that for 15 minutes, then coat and return to 550 F. for another 15 minutes then coat a final time, then return for ramp to heat treat. They never come out pretty, and will not, but there is no scale and decarb of any degree is very seldom.

A word of caution I have learned the hard way: If using PBC any blobs of PBC left behind in your HT furnace can eat through your foil wrap at deep hardening steel temperatures (lean a foil wrap up against PBC residue and heat to high temperature and a hole in foil can occur).

rlinger
------
 
Did you include something in your foil like a small piece of paper?

Spencer
 
Leu, no I didn't clean them well. In fact there was a slight film of WD-40 on them. I'll clean the next set carefully and see what happens. Thanks for the advice!

Spencer, no paper. It seems that some people include it and some don't so I decided to try without.

rlinger, I do sprinkle, reheat and re-sprinkle with the PBC. It seems to me that thin blades (3/32, 1/16 and .045 bandsaw steel) just don't retain heat long enough to
melt the PBC evenly. I do get most of the blade coated but always have some problem spots. I'm sure my technique isn't very good though.
 
dipierson: Well it's not the end of the world, just makes it more work for you and perhaps you have to grind/buff in a bit deeper to get off the ghostly white appearance off the blade. It's actually kinda neat in some ways, almost like camoflauge on the steel.

Try putting a piece of kraft paper (shopping bag) about maybe 1" x 1" with your next blades into the foil with the blade and crimp edges 3 times over and use some kind of roller. I use a wallpaper roller to flatten the edges and a hammer for the corners.

I notice that the first time ever when I did a thorough cleaning of all the blades, wore gloves while i was cleaning them with acetone and put a piece of kraft in each envelope (to burn up excess oxygen left in the envelope)...the blades all came out a nice rainbow/gray tone and two passings on the buffer and all of it came off evenly! Good luck!

PBC? I don't think you need that and stainless steel foil. Just use either one. I think stainless steel foil is a hell of alot easier IMO.
 
JT: I wouldn't try forging A2. It's not really a steel that was designed to be forged. By forging you change it's chemistry makeup and heck, it might no longer harden after you beat on it with a hammer and yadda yadda...or if might harden the point of being too hard as that is a problem too if you take it over 1800 degrees.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top