Steven, my intentions on making this sword are to make a user, with interesting and pleasing aesthetic, sturdy and strong simple clean design, exposed pretty wood. it would have looked a bit more like a katana or a sabre, as was originally intended but during straightening after heat treatment the very tip broke clean off (in fully hardened state when it broke), so in order to still keep the tip functional, I had to grind it curved down to have the entire tip remain hardened steel due to the hamon. It was never really based off a historic sword, but not based off of any fantasy sword either. Not made for an order, made to gain expeirience fitting hilts on swords and to end up with a finished product I can test to gain a better understanding of how things work.
Lorien, it swings VERY nice, cuts very well, feels well balanced. When you first hold the blade it feels a bit blade heavy, but when you swing it it does not feel overly so, very powerful cuts.
Keith, I am in the process of putting the sword through it's paces, as pertaining to a sword (no chopping 2X4s or batoning just yet). Edge holding by cutting abrasive materials like thick cardboard, balance and comfort of handle by cutting alot of things repetitively, toughness by cutting hard targets.
Brian, I know many swordmakers who stock remove, no one ever said swords had to be forged

.
Chuck, I was thinking of adding a bit of curve to the tang, but even with it straight it is in line with the curve of the blade.
thombrogan, how would I go about finding the rotational nodes in the handle, is it similar to finding the sweet spot out on the blade? As to why a hamon, I can give no better reason other than I simply wanted to do one. I realise the shortcomings of a differentially heat treated blade with a pearlite spine and martensite edge as opposed to a through hardened blade fully martensite, and felt that for personal and aesthetic reasons I would gain enough resiliency as to be satisfied yet still be able to have a hamon. It's impossible to make any sword indestructable, botch a cut bad enough with any sword and you will end up doing damage. The blade is not so thick, 3/16ths at the base and a hair over 1/8th at the tip, yet very ridgid and tough.
Possum, I tend more to start with a bit of a plan now when starting a new project, but this blade was made freehand, not to any specific design. I started with a blank and basically hit it with a hammer until it looked good, the fittings were all freehand designed as well, the day I ground out the guard I just grabbed a peice of bar stock and ground away until a shape I liked started emerging then I ran with that idea, then made the pommel to match and used the zebrawood because it was the nicest wood I had on hand the proper size and I thought it would look good. Sort of like a hybrid, messer hilt with a short blade that would have had a katana like tip had it not broken. I have had this blade hanging around waiting to be finished for months it is very nice to finally have it done.