First sword project - need advice

Well..let's see. During the British Coronations, 5 swords are in Westminster Abbey, and the Vienna Sword of St. Maurice, which was once housed in a Chapel, are two noteworthy examples. There's really no "use" at all for a sword in a Church, other than ceremonial or decorative, although we could make the argument that during the Viking raids of England, swords were certainly present-and used- in churches and other religious places, because that's where the money was, and I'm sure more than one Christian place of worship was defended with swords during the Crusades.

Again, not for religious ceremonies. Other functions such as coronations and memorials. You have forgotten endless effigies. Religious swords in the bibles are metaphoric. You will see stained glass, masonry and cabenitry in churches displaying swords in the context of scripture. Some quite bloody, such as the Maciejowski Bible. However, sermons and masses do not use physical swords. A coronation is indeed blessed in a religious ceremony but not with a sword. in the case, the sword leads a procession. the crown set upon the individual blessed and holy in that sense but the property of the individuals The swords in such functions are strictly smybolic of unity of strength and stature/rank. You will not find a Christian religious leader wielding a sword in a church. Several saints and others of Jesus' fold did have swords but did not preach with them. Sins such as war and murder are absolved.


Snakes and musical instruments? Sure ;) I could jokingly call you all a bunch of zealots but I hope some may see what my points are.

Cheers

GC
 
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Way I see it, the church will either want it or not. If not, he can keep it. Frankly, if it's a first sword, odds are very good that it won't turn out well enough that he'll want to donate it, one way or another. While I think Glen is probably right that it might be worth checking with the church leadership to see if they would even be interested in such a thing (and I too have my doubts), that doesn't mean it wouldn't still be a fun project.

I would probably use 5160, or one of the more impact resistant 10-series carbon steels, unless you have the equipment and money to want to work with 3V, and would echo questions about what sort of equipment you have to pursue this project, what you're thinking as far as heat treat, and what your past experience is. Swords are not even remotely in the same league as knives, particularly not if you've only made a few. Whoever you have to do the heat treat will need to be very good at handling warp, for one. Grinding a long blade takes a different technique, for another. And this sounds like a double-edge. Have you done a dagger before, at least? That's a challenge all on its own, and that's not even getting into the plunge lines.

Take everything VERY slowly, and measure at least thrice before you remove anything. Then measure some more.
 
Horse, I understand and agree totally with your premise. It was never intended to be part of any service or sermon. Just a symbol they can use on the odd occasion where it would be appropriate and symbolic. That's all.

And Ichor, I explained the theme of my project so that it could be understood what I was wanting to do, and the REAL theme of my post was simply asking for advice about such a sword's construction, and was in NO way prostelitizing in ANY manner. People believe pretty much what they WANT to, and I long ago recognized that. As I said, it's MY little project, and all I was looking for or asking about was advice from those who've made swords before how best to go about it. To make my aims clear, it was NECESSARY, I thought, for my purpose to be understood. Nothing more. Nothing less. The hostility of some toward religion and even the merest mention or allusion to it seems to have been brought to its ultimate fruition in the current Oregon school shooting, and others. I was not trying to be offensive in ANY manner. Just trying to explain what my purpose was so that proper advice might be given, but if you're offended by any mention of any aspect of religion, I can't very well be responsible for that, can I?

The hostility displayed here is VERY uncommon among knife folks. I know we can be an opinionated lot, which is characteristic of any artist in any field, but I really, truly didn't expect this kind of reaction to my post. I can't very well apologize for stating my purpose. Blades have always been symbolic in their designs and representations, and the essential theme is an integral part of many blades, so I thought, and intended for it to be, very innocuous. If I erred in my intent, I apologize for the error, but not for the content or my original intent. The hostility toward religion now in so many may have merited a little more contemplation, but if so, I still can't see it. I know we live in a very PC world now, but I'm just not very PC, and have always preferred to just state my case very objectively, and without fear or trepidation. If you're offended, I'm sorry for that, but I really don't know how I could have "danced around" anyone's delicate sensibilities on this project, and still made my purpose in the design clear. How that becomes offensive is, frankly, a mystery to me, but then, us un-PC types don't understand a lot of things these days, and for that lack of understanding I DO herewith apologize.

But I still appreciate any advice anyone wishes to give me on it, and thanks to any who are not so offended by my simple description of my plan and purpose for it. Thanks to any who can and will contribute.
 
Just wanted to say thanks to David S, madcap and kaoticross for the advice and also for the support for my concept. Special thanks for possum for the links, and I'll do my best to go to school on them. At present, all I really have is the basic concept, and need to learn and decide how to bring it to fruition, and these will help greatly, I'm sure. And the historical accuracy is only a very minor consideration here in this particular case, though I highly respect the efforts of many to recreate significant blades of the past. Amazing work!

And kaoticross, you really nailed my intent with this thing. Thanks. Wish I'd said that myself.

And thanks to all of you who've given me good advice. It's what I need now, and is VERY much appreciated.
 
HC, thank you very much for that link to answering-islam.com. I just read it, and one of the links to another thread in it, and it was really great. And your point is very well taken. This sword, though I intend for it to be a fully functional one with pretty sharp edges, is still meant to be symbolic in its entirety. I just want it to be functional since non-functional stuff really has no place, IMO at least, in any church or religion. Very good link and point. Thanks.
 
Not sure where you have seen any hostility? I am happy you took some time to read through the context of Luke and violence. I hope your build goes well.

Cheers GC
 
Thanks, and also, I forgot to thank the poster who recommended I consider 5160. That was my first consideration, and the only reason I mentioned cosidering 440C was because this is to be a symbolic sword, and not one that would be likely to be used as real swords are traditionally used. Therefore, was just considering the suitability of well polished 440C in a symbolic sword. Its stainless quality would necessitate much less care, and make it as resistant to neglect as possible. Lots of stuff to consider, and since this will likely be a one time thing for me, and the greatest challenge I've ever undertaken, I want to get it right, so the planning stage is pretty critical. The execution stage will, I'm thinking, involve a lot of hand sanding to get the spine and angles as perfect as I can get them, and keep the sword straight in the heat treating as closely as I can achieve it.

Planning on probably having it professionally heat treated, but have considered building a temporary forge out of some oven brick on hand, and seeing if I can do it myself, but that's a bit intimidating for me. I'm kind'a really flying by the seat of my pants on this, which is why I came here for advice and counsel, and all the input I can get. And again, thanks for all that has been provided. I'm approaching this idea slowly, since I'm totally inexperienced at sword making now, but have wanted to learn for at least the last 30 years, and have learned all I could along the way. You guys who've done it really have my respect, FWIW. They're STILL some of the most amazing implements ever made by the hands of men, and you who've done it, and done it well, have earned far more respect than you'll ever get. But that seems to be the way with all art and artists today, so I guess it's no big surprise.

It's been said that those who WANT to be an artist will find only disillusionment, sacrifice and will see little rewards for their efforts, and will wind up disappointed, but those who HAVE to be an artist will never find peace and contentment at anything else. I think there's a lot of Truth in that, and I admire all those who have the great skills necessary to make really good ones. Very few but the makers really realize what all goes into making one. I do, but am trying to commit to it anyway. After all, what is a man with no aspirations or goals?
 
The crusades were a con and a travesty and had nothing to do with Christianity and are one of Western Civilization's greatest shames. Make a crusader sword for fun or for historical value, but putting it in a church is kind of perverse, especially considering Jesus' stance on the matter of the sword.

That being said, I would still use 5160. Just oil it. And make sure you don't get 5160R.
 
You definitely don't want to do 440 if you're going to attempt the heat treat yourself. If you're going to do it, in my opinion do it right. 440 isn't really the steel to use for a sword ever. I'd still like to hear more about your tooling and background. It's going to be awfully hard to give advice without knowing that.

Honestly, at this point I'd lean towards getting a bare blade from someone who knows what they're doing, and doing the fittings yourself, assuming you're set on your plan. As far as the hostility, IMO you need to relax a little and stop reading so much into comments. Aside from maybe ichor, people aren't expressing hostility towards religion. We just have doubts about the soundness of your idea, and have recommended that you communicate with the church and see if they're even interested. If they're not, that may simplify things quite a bit. I personally think this project will end up being a personal one just for you, whatever you may think now. I'd be very surprised if you were able to make a sword worthy of being a good symbolic gesture on your first try, for one, and for another, there are all the points raised by others in this thread.

Honestly, a lot of what people have said thus far will probably start to make more sense as you progress in the project (which I applaud, don't get me wrong, I just think you don't really understand what you're getting yourself into), and after you talk to your pastor/priest/etc. None of that is combative in any way.

Part of the reason I'd use 5160 is that it's a lot more forgiving. It's also much cheaper. You seem to be assuming that you'll get it right the first time. Without knowing what your background is, and what kinds of projects you've been able to do so far, I'd guess that you might be underestimating the difficulty of the task. You also mentioned you want it to be functional. 440 of any variety, and pretty much all stainless steels, have no place in functional swords. They're too brittle.

Why don't you start by dispensing with the complaints about any perceived hostility about religion (that serves no purpose, and is frankly annoying, as we've asked you numerous times for substantive information about your tooling and skill level and gotten ignored every time in favor of more complaining about how hostile everyone is being). Put anyone on ignore that you feel is being hostile, so the rest of us can get necessary information without any further distractions. Then tell us whether you've done a long blade before, and if you've done a double edged blade before. How do you plan on doing the fittings, and what equipment/tooling do you have to complete the project. What specs are you thinking about? Have you ever done distal taper? Are you planning on a milled guard, or an integral?

What plans do you have for scabbard construction? What's your budget for materials for this project? Do you expect the wood to be exposed, or are you going to cover with leather or lacquer?
 
Thanks, Falcon. All responses to the hostility that seemed to be coming initially are dispensed with, and gladly.

You bring up very good questions, and that's why I came here to start with on this. I've ground maybe a dozen or a little better blades, mostly flat ground, but several hollow ground when I had access to a good Burr King grinder. The one I have is a cheap little Taiwanese 2x48" grinder that the motor went out on and I replaced it with a washing machine 1/2 HP motor that's been running well for some time now. Have setups for 4 polishing wheels, and have done a fair amount of polishing on guns as well, but round gun barrels and flat receiver sides don't "grab" the wheel like knives can. Learned that when I did an "oops" while polishing one of the blades I'd ground, and it stuck through my shoe into the concrete touching but not piercing my toe! I know a sword would be, at least potentially, likely to cause a lot more damage in polishing it. Does keeping the sword at a 45 degree angle eliminate that very effectively? Found that tended to work in my gunsmithing, so long as I was VERY careful with the wheel and whatever I was polishing. Getting the surfaces dead flat, when doing a good polish job/bluing, was always the crucial part.

My grinder will need a new and good, dead flat platten, which I will be adding before even thinking of tackling this or other knife projects I have in mind. I'm retired, so putting in the extra time and care isn't a problem. I'm kind'a anticipating (?) having to do the final grinding/sanding/polishing by hand so as to cut slow enough to get the center line down good and straight and centered.

As to the heat treat, I've done some in the past, and pretty well know what "cherry red" and "straw" colors look like from that experience, and from talking with blacksmiths and knifemakers I've known. I MAY (???) attempt it myself, but if I get the blade down good, I'd hate to have all that work wind up being for naught, so will likely have someone who's experienced do that for me. I'm looking at it taking a year or more to accomplish this. It'll be a project I take up and work with, and do a lttle along, and then rest and go to other projects I have. I have some health problems, and my hands aren't as steady and my eyes not as sharp as they once were, but I think I can deal with that by mounting fixtures to the bench where I can steady up my hands. I have a little neuropathy in my hands, but still have a pretty delicate touch most of the time, and that's when I'd apply myself to the sword project.

As I said to begin with, I realize this is kind'a a grandiose thing for me to attempt, but again, what's life without a challenge. I can get 5160 for $18 + shpg. for a blank, and my time's always well spent if I do nothing but learn from it, and at the price of 5160 blanks, I can afford to take a couple of stabs at it before I get a workable and decent blade. With these type things, it's always the challenge that makes it enjoyable, and I don't intend trying to become a general sword maker. Just do this one-off job, mostly for my personal satisfaction in meeting what I know will be a VERY great challenge to me and my skills as they stand now. But they'll never be any greater if I don't challenge them.

Made my first blade for my son with the equipment I have now, and a guild member was very complimentary of it as a first knife. He still uses that blade now some 26 years later as his main blade when afield. My knifemaker friend up in the mountains did all my heat treating of the 440C, and that taught me the difference between what 440C is from the stores, and what really well heat treated 440C can be and do.

Basically, I'm just at a point where I'm ready and willing to at least give it a whirl, just to see if I really CAN do this. And that's why I came here for help in it and advice. It'll all ride on my own judgment calls and skills, and I know that. All I need here is just some advice about things I definitely do NOT want or need to do. More or less, things to keep me out of trouble. I know to grind slow and not to turn the steel blue. I know about heat treat and the polishing wheels grabbing the blade, and that a sword CAN cause some grave injuries. Recently read or heard about a knifemaker getting killed by a blade while polishing. My sense of touch has always been a great asset for me when I've had the time to try things like this and in gunsmithing. Have a good amount of time with polishing wheels, and have learned to do a REALLY good polish with them - smooth and straight and flat and bright when that was what was needed.

I'm honestly just hoping I can pull it off, because I DO know it's one whale of a big project, and I don't want to waste my time, but have lots to put at risk in such a project,a and again, kind'a like the robber in "Dirty Harry," I "gots ta' know."

For at least 30 years, I'd always wanted to learn to forge damascus and make at least some fairly decent versions of the old Samurai swords, and have read up on them as much as time would allow, and every issue of Blade and Knives I found that had info on those, or other things I found interesting, I bought off the news stands, plus the old Viking swords. I just don't have the oomph in me any more to build or operate a good forge, but I figure I still have the wherewithall to do a stock removal blade, if I don't try to hurry it up and am patient with it.

Does this give you a good idea of where I'm at with this? All the blades I ground from the 440C were each better than the last, and I sold them all for about what I had in them in steel, belts, etc. and the last I heard, they're all still in use today and going strong and holding up very well. Having a friend who is in the guild really helped. He got me off on the right footing. My grinder isn't pretty or nearly what I'd llke. I really like the Burr King. MUCH quieter than the Square Wheels I've seen, and I just like the way it has both wheel and flat platen readily available and quickly adjustable to get either. If I ever get a really good grinder, it'll be the Burr King, or at least that's the plan right now. Have access to a Burr King a gunsmith friend of mine's, but it's 5 hours away now, one way. I do like to visit him as much as I can, though, so it'd probably be available if and when I need it on a temporary basis. My grinder has produced most of the knives I've made, and it ain't pretty, but with care, it can be done with it. The washing machine motor is powerful enough for me, at this stage of my "knife making career" if you can call it that, and I just find it satisfying to engage in doing something "the hard way" sometimes, just to see if I can pull it off. So far, thanks largely to my guild member friend's early advice and instruction, I've done pretty well, and at least have come to know what all is involved. I remember reading David Boye's book, where in the final pages, he notes that when you've completed your first knife, and done well, you then realize that the NEXT one you make will require just as much work as the first one.

I think I have about 5 books on knifemaking, both forging and stock removal, and have read them all more than once, and tried to "go to school" on them as much as one can from just reading a book. Learned a long time ago that reading and doing are two vastly different things, but the reading CAN at least guide your efforts, and with knifemaking, that's important, especially at first. The rest is experience, and the "school of hard knocks." That knife through my shoe that touched but didn't pierce my toe was a really good lesson. Can't get a lesson any more attention getting than that without paying in blood. The blood came from the grinder, and that was minimal, but very good as a "reminder" now and then.

If I didn't think there was at least a decent chance of pulling this off, I wouldn't be wasing you guys' time here, but of course, I COULD be overestimating what I can do, even with the greatest of care and advice. Again, I've just got to see for myself, and you guys' help and advice is VERY much sincerely appreciated. Mostly, though, I think I've just got to get the blank and see what I really can or can't do.
 
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Don't make a full tang/slab sided handle. Swords typically have a "rat tail" tang to help isolate shock from your hand.
 
Thank you sir! About size do you recommend for a tapered 2x28" blade for the tang width? Would 3/4" wide be too wide do you think? A sword of this size and weight should, I'd think (???) need a strong tang. I'm thinking it should balance about 1/2-1" in front of the blade, if I can achieve that. Am I in the ball park on that? Feel is a very subjective thing, and we all knkow when something feels right, but sometimes it's really hard to put things into a set formula, or set of specs. My greatest strength in this is that I realize how much there is that I don't know. Read an article on the net in the past week about draw filing it to get the lines right and straight and flat, and that was very helpful. I've done some draw filing in the past, so that'll be a big help. I know I'm a babe in the woods in this, but took delivery on enough stock to make 10 knives with today, which will take me a while. Hoping I can get them done in time for Christmas, but may not make it now. They'll be for getting my hand back in and getting as much "feel" for the operations as I can before jumping in on the sword. Plan 6 more after this, and they'll be big Bowies, which may help a bit more. 16 (or maybe 18?) kinves, and I think I'll be as ready as I can get myself to be for the sword project. My greatest asset is my patience, not being on a time clock, and just WANTING and INTENDING to do it right, whatever it takes. If there's one thing I've learned in life, it's that these things along with persistence and careful study, CAN, with some judgment, produce results that can surprise me at myself. The key now is TIME. I have it now to "throw away" on a grandiose project, even if when I walk away, all I may have is the satisfaction of saying "I tried, and gave it my best." That ain't exactly chopped liver! I do NOT intend for it to be so, but if it should wind up that way anyway, I'll take it. If a man can't take his lumps, he'll never wind up doing or even trying to achieve very much. A little grandiosity, tempered by self knowledge and determination and patience, has allowed me to do some things that have had me surprised at myself. Won't know how it'll go 'till I give it a whirl. And thanks for the tip.

Anybody else got any insights on a 1/4x36x2" tapered sword? Balance, etc.?
 
Anybody else got any insights on a 1/4x36x2" tapered sword? Balance, etc.?

http://www.vikingsword.com/
http://www.myarmoury.com/features.html

I'm not sure if you are basically looking for blueprints but some spend a lifetime researching, handling and measuring period swords. At what point does one's own project become a copy of someone else's work?

That's not to say someone won't pop up and offer you blueprints but you may want to spend some time learning about medieval swords. Aside from the two links above are some books you may benefit from. A good and inexpensive primer is Ewart Oakeshott's Archaeology of Weapons.

Much of those thoughts are contained in those two links above. IMHO, better venues for studying those types than Bladeforums can ever be. Sword Forum International as well. http://www.swordforum.com/forums/ Search for Angus Trim there and Michael Tinker Pearce.

For a lot of reviews of modern made swords with some specifications, also check out https://sbg-sword-forum.forums.net/


Cheers

GC
 
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Thanks, GC. The more I've come to learn about swords, the more I've come to realize just how little I, and maybe we all, really know about them. When the balloon went up, people used to do what we still do today - pick up the best we have to work with, and just go.

My sword, and I seriously doubt if I ever make another - even the grandboys would have to REALLY motivate me to do another, I think - so this one's really meant to be more of a showpiece rather than a warsword. But symbols SHOULD, I think, be at the very least, applicable to the purpose for which they were originally designed if the message is to be taken seriously. Just my opinion, of course, but since it's my sword build, that's the only thing I really have to give to it.

One of the things I seem to keep re-learning over and over is simply that what I said initially - that we take the best we have available and go forth with it, is exactly what those knights and combatants of olde did. It's really all any of us CAN do. With all the non-functional stuff being made and sold, this one won't have to be a centuries old Samurai or Viking quality blade, but I want it to at the very least be serviceable. Just seems to carry the message I want to convey with it better that way. And for mine, at least, it's the message that is the more important part of it.

Thanks for the great references, and I'll be checking them out. I have 16-18 knives to make to get my sense of "feel" back as close to in the groove as I can get it before jumping in on the big blade. Just got my steel for them.

Again, thanks to all who've helped. Most of this is just going to be plain, old fashioned hard and very careful work, but I'd never even attempt this without doing all the research I can, and you guys have given me some good suggestions and things to think about. I appreciate that.
 
As far as the polishing wheels go, you want the wheels rotating AWAY from the edge. You shouldn't have any issues with them grabbing the blade if you're holding the blade more at a tangent, and you get the edge of rotation right. I flip mine around so that if they catch, the blades get flung away from me, honestly.

Let's see. Lots of things to think about here. I probably would NOT try to get the balance perfect your first go. It takes distal taper to make the sword really feel alive in hand, and that's a devil to grind in. You're better off on the first attempt doing it closer to how you do it with a knife, IMO. You very likely won't be able to get it to balance an inch in front without major counterbalance on the pommel, and you probably want it a good bit further out, TBH. I'd guess for a blade that length, you would be looking more for a balance point at least 5" out from the guard. If you haven't already done a double-edge blade, I strongly recommend you try one before you start the sword. Everything is different about swords. Grinding a blade that long can't be done with the same grinding technique you use for knives; I have to use my arms and shift my body weight to get my grinding stroke consistent. Rely on draw-filing a lot to keep it even too. You can pretty much bank on the blade warping when you heat treat it. You don't have that problem with knives, but once you get up to the 18"+ range, it's going to be an issue. If you're not good at dealing with warp, you may want to rethink doing the heat treat yourself.

The other thing I recommend is that you plan and measure and draw a lot before you start shaping. Getting the bevels to line up on a double edge, and getting those plunges to look clean, is pretty challenging if you haven't done it before. I would recommend using a file to cut those in, because it's a lot easier to control the plunges that way.
 
Let's start with the very basics. You order the steel, 5160 or the new and improved version of 5160, 80CRV2, if you get a good flat, straight piece of steel then you are already ahead of the game. But there is also a good chance the steel you receive will be bowed, so straightening it will be necessary. The steel should be annealed already, that is, it should be soft. Now, what size did you order? I assume 1/4X2x48 inches, or perhaps 1/4 x 1.5 x48. You haven't mentioned if your plan is to forge it or do a stock removal blade, but I assume you will do a stock removal so you will need to draw up your blade and transfer your drawing to the blade. You will then need to create the blade and the best way to do that is to use an angle grinder with cutting disks. This can lead to serious injury, so great care is needed. Wear safety glasses, or even a full face shield, heavy gloves and clothes and just use common sense. Once you have the blade outline cut out of the steel, you will need to decide what kind of blade you want. Do you want your blade to have a diamond cross section, or do you want a flat ground blade with a fuller? Here's what I suggest, since this is your first sword. I suggest you use a file to create bevels and your plunge lines. Yes, it's a huge task, but also fairly foolproof. Stay away from the grinder, or if you do want to develop your grinding sword skills, get some cheap practice steel and work at it for at least a few months before even attempting your sword. I guarantee the moment you touch your steel to the grinder you will screw it up.

So, let's assume you file worked some perfect bevels on your sword, and you are moving on to the tang. Leave the part of the tang closest to the blade a full 1/4" thick, and a 1" or so wide, then taper it down to end at approximately 1/2" and make it approx. 8to 9" long.

When all of this is done, here's where you will face the biggest challenge of all, and that is heat treating and tempering the sword. Normally, heat treating 5160 is not terribly difficult, but you are dealing with a long blade here and actually, the heat treating isn't the true issue, tempering is. You need a controlled oven big enough to hold the blade. Not something easy to find, and getting someone to do it for you is also difficult.

There's no need to discuss the guard, handle or scabbard yet, you have a solid six months of work ahead of you before we get to that.

By no means, however, do I want to discourage you, after all, everyone started from the same place. You are going of a journey, have fun and be sure to post pictures and questions.

To all the other readers of this post, if I have inadvertenly given some bad info here, please feel free to chime in, I am far from perfect.:D
 
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