First Tactical Tomahawk? Which RMJ for Hurricane Survival kit?

Hmmm...for post-disaster use I'd personally have suggested an Estwing Rigger's Axe. I think the nail puller notch and hammer face would come in handy with greater frequency than the spikes conventionally found on most 'hawks.
 
Don't keep us in suspense, tell us what you chose?:cool:

And pics when you get it too please.

I placed an order for a standard Shrike on May 23 and received it on October 16th. I chose the Shrike because of my perceived need when it came to Hurricanes. After Katrina, there were some downed trees, but the bigger issue was flooded houses and buildings. Doors were swollen in the frames and needed to be busted out in order to gain entry. People had to chop through their roofs due to rising water, etc. Looking over the models, I felt the Shrike would be the best choice if I needed to breach in our out of buildings.

Now that I have the model, I am very pleased with the product. The quality is very apparent. I haven't used it or taken pictures at this point.

The only downside was the wait. Apparently, a military unit placed a 65 piece order that bumped mine. I have no problem with that, but I wasn't notified that my order would be delayed. A bit better communication and there wouldn't have been an issue at all.
 
Great choice. I'm sure that if the time comes you need to put it to use, you will not regret your decision.
 
New here and just looking around but have love hawks for a long time. Had a CS Spike Hawk for years and now really like their Trench Hawk. I've beaten both to death and they have held up very well. So, if you could help me see what more I would get out of a $400 hawk I would appreciate it. Not challenging anything here just trying to understand differences. It took me awhile to get the differences in knives too and went from CS to Spyderco pretty much completely at this point. But I already had some complaints with their edge holding and weight. Don't have much I don't like about the Trench & Spike. I even put a Spike on the 30" War Hammer handle just to hit things harder and it's still alive and well. Added langettes also (came with the War Hammer handle.)
 


i used the loggerhead a lot espicially on camping trips with my BK16 knife its more utilitarian than the 2. The shrike is mostly work related as a breaching tool mainly very effective and light compared to commercial breaching tools we had on our toolbox. The berserker will my wife give it to as a bday present its heavy but its very effective so far on processing wood cutting bricks on my garden but very expensive for day to day use and what not.
 


i used the loggerhead a lot espicially on camping trips with my BK16 knife its more utilitarian than the 2. The shrike is mostly work related as a breaching tool mainly very effective and light compared to commercial breaching tools we had on our toolbox. The berserker will my wife give it to as a bday present its heavy but its very effective so far on processing wood cutting bricks on my garden but very expensive for day to day use and what not.

Why the electrical tape on the handles?
 
Actually i wrapped it in 550 cords then wrapped it again with camo tape then finally the inner tube (ranger bands) applied for grip enhancement.
 
Hmmm...for post-disaster use I'd personally have suggested an Estwing Rigger's Axe. I think the nail puller notch and hammer face would come in handy with greater frequency than the spikes conventionally found on most 'hawks.

Post disaster isn't quite like building/remodeling. The basic job is to get things apart quickly without much worry about finesse saving trim and nails. The first task is to free trapped victims - a house to house search is necessary to clear what buildings may still be standing and insure no one is stuck under a partial collapse or behind wedged doors that no longer function. Since the able bodied are more likely to evacuate, it's the physically challenged who remain behind and can't climb out windows or free themselves. Dismantling connected stick framing means using a pry bar, and a spike hawk with a convex top can be used for that. The longer the handle the better, up to a point. In comparison, the Stanley Fubar is too heavy to bother lugging around - my son tried it in post-Joplin clean up and it stayed home after one day. The spike doesn't need to be sharp, either, it's basically a wedge to get into a joint to separate connections.

In demolition, same thing. I've used boy's axes taking down lathe and plaster, that and a short crowbar made an nice combination to knock it down. For larger framing a single tool would do as well, which is why I picked up a spike hawk. It's also useful for limbing trees, which is another first stage task - it's hard to get down the road if it's blocked. To cut up a tree that is entangled with another means there are limbs under significant stress Freeing them could result in a kick back that can kill a saw operator. That is how we lost our third victim to a tornado here in 2003.

Chopping the smaller limbs away to view the main branches and trunks is absolutely necessary. Anyone who has cut down trees for firewood understands the process, but those new to it under adrenaline don't see the potential energy stored in a 12" limb bent back at 90 degrees, much less the thousands of pounds of heavy wet trunk that gravity will pull down.

I don't see a short handled hatchet with hammer poll and nail notch being as much help as a spike hawk in that work. Same for opening up cars that have been rolled along the street in 200mph winds - the roof is beaten down and the doors jammed shut. If the occupants weren't sucked out, ejected, or killed outright, then the job is to pry open the most likely opening and remove them in a fashion that won't aggravate their possibly extensive injuries. Again, you need a pry bar with leverage, and the spike hawk does that, too.

It's a disaster in many other ways than worrying about which nail to pull. Most of the injuries after the even is over come from rushing in with the wrong tools in a frantic attempt to free family and neighbors. It's actually a slow exhausting process to make sure YOU don't become another casualty increasing the load on the already overloaded medical system. Joplin had to evacuate a complete hospital with patients undergoing surgery as scheduled at the time. Who knew?

I would look to more than just a hawk for disaster gear - heavy soled work boots at least ankle high are needed to protect the feet in the sharp debris, heavy canvas pants, work gloves, long sleeve shirt, hydration, a dust mask, and some kind of bump cap at the minimum. If it sounds like it's overboard, that was the standard uniform for volunteers here for the entire summer during clean up - in 110 degree heat, the third hottest on record. Most clean up injuries are cuts and perforations from sharp objects, up to and including fatalities from large limbs and trees kicking back or falling. Each of us has to understand what we can spend to acquire the necessary tools we hope we never use, but more importantly, how that tool is shaped to do the work is important, too.

Not to forget that any tool is better than no tool at all - we use them to multiply our rather meager human power to accomplish things we otherwise would never get done. It is important to point out that the RMJ line of tools is selling to those who need a light handy hawk for search and rescue - not an Estwing carpenter's tool. Those are common as dirt and well known, but they aren't getting money spent on them and packed for a tour overseas. Spike hawks are, and chosen by LEO/Fire personnel, too, much less DEA. There's a reason for that, and it's not as a weapon as much as a better choice of tool - for a lot of the same tasks as we need in disaster relief.
 
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