First time damascus WIP

As far as the acid goes use windex. The ammonia in it is what neutralizes it.

 

Ok let’s see if I can help.

First up when you say weld are you talking mig welding every layer closed or just running bead lines down the stack to hold it togather. You don’t need to go crazy with the welder. The more you weld the more material you have to grind off to remove the weld.

I wound just start with a random pattern. And I would shoot for 150-200 layers. As for the flux and your forge that’s a more in-depth topic. ITC-100 is flux resistant but that’s not why we use it. We use it to reflect heat energy. It’s quite expensive so usually it’s not a very thick coating. In the past it was common to use wool and a liquid that would harden up the wool. Then a coating of Satanite that was rather thick. On top of that you would put a thin layer of ITC-100. For the floor we would use Bubble Alumina and make it thick. This would hold up really well to forge welding. But flux builds up on the floor and with scales creates a big sticky lump on your floor. So all that being said, how is your forge constructed?

When you restack you bars in 3 to 6 layers just grind the surfaces clean and tack them togather with the welder. Then heat and lightly flux befor it gets to hot. Then bring to welding temp and reflux and re heat. Remember flux is not glue. You just need a light coating. If it’s running off your billet and all over the place then you used wayto much.

Mix your feric chloride in a 1:3 ratio with clean water. And then use windex you neutralise the acid after etching.

 

I would advise finding some kiln shelf tile and cutting it up to create a "sacrificial floor"

 

To neutralize I also use windex, but also sprinkle some baking soda on the blade along with the windex.

 

Do not heat it. The hotter it is the faster it etches and the faster it etches the worse the finish. Flux Normaly affects the floor unless you go crazy with it and it foams up when you put the steel in and the foam blows off and sticks to the walls or roof. Just watch the flux so it does not run off the brick and onto you forge lining. Flux eats wool like a fat kid going after Cotten candy.

 

Looks good! Keep on posting. Next time don't be afraid to grind the tack welds smooth with the billet before forging.

 

You sure the thicker steel is 1084. 1084 Moves much easier while forging. This is why you use thicker steel then the 15n20 when you start. When you forge the billet down if both steels are the same thickness then the 15n20 is usaly much thicker.

 

When you quick etch, the oxides on the 15n20 appear darker but when you clean off the loose oxide on the finished blade, the 15n20 will be bright. Don't worry about it, looks exactly like it should at this stage.
Darcy

 

The contrast won't really start to show well until you've hardened it.

 

If you are looking for a less caustic welding flux, kerosene works well. The advantages are; it will not affect the forge lining and the welding surfaces are much cleaner than when using Borax. Borax works well, I've done a lot of welding using it but these days I use kerosene or any quality parts cleaner to weld with; my forges appreciate it I know.

Happy grinding, Fred

 

Wouldn’t using kerosene just be dry welding? I know people love it but is it truly a flux? I consider a flux something that desolves oxides and cleans the steel and flushes the gunk out of the weld area. Seams like kerosene just shealds the steel from oxygen as it burns off. But with a rich reducing forge you don’t have to worry about oxygen.