I read an article years ago (in G&A i think) recommending a S&W K-22 617 in 22 lr paired with a S&W L-frame 686 .357 magnum. They have almost identical weight and feel. Learn to shoot cheaply on the 22 and occasionally shoot the .357 so you know how to deal with the heavier .357 recoil.
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First time handgun buyer questions
- Thread starter fishbulb
- Start date
Yeah thats true. I think a 500 round brick of 22 and a box (or maybe 2) of .357 a month would be sufficient. With a heavier revolver like the 686 (with a 4 or 6 inch barrel) the recoil isn't that bad.
I have a S&W 617 and a buddy has a S&W 686 they are pretty close in feel and weight. When i shoot i shoot mostly semiautos but i do like the both the S&W's.I found the 22 S&W to be really great for learning to do quick DA shooting.
Grappler1911
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SW is worth the extra money.
Contrary to popular opinion, revolvers do jam and are actually less reliable than a good semi.
Drop one in the sand and you'll see what I mean.
SW is by far the most reliable revolver.
Contrary to popular opinion, revolvers do jam and are actually less reliable than a good semi.
Drop one in the sand and you'll see what I mean.
SW is by far the most reliable revolver.
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Well, since you already purchased one, any further advice of what to get is moot....
As for larger, better grips, I would suggest Pachmayers. These will soften the recoil, give a place for your pinky and until you want to conceal it in a pocket, will be just fine.
The model number of your S&W .38 is found on the frame, where the crane falls away from it when you release the cylinder. If you have a fully exposed hammer, you most likely have a Model 36, or the original "Chief's Special."
It's a classic, and one of the best .38's to be had.
Gold Dots aren't bad, but for a snubby, the load that seems to do the best in stopping folks is the 158 grain lead, semi-wadcutter hollowpoint. (LSWCHP) Most ammo makers produce their version of this, but I favor Federal.
It's capable of more accuracy than most people think. The thing is, it's hard to obtain that accuracy out of it. If you're not punching golfball size groups at 7 yds with it, then you need more practice, as the gun itself is easily capable of the feat.
I'd suggest getting some speedloaders for it. HKS is alright, but the Safariland Comp 1's are best. Get a couple.
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As for larger, better grips, I would suggest Pachmayers. These will soften the recoil, give a place for your pinky and until you want to conceal it in a pocket, will be just fine.
The model number of your S&W .38 is found on the frame, where the crane falls away from it when you release the cylinder. If you have a fully exposed hammer, you most likely have a Model 36, or the original "Chief's Special."
It's a classic, and one of the best .38's to be had.
Gold Dots aren't bad, but for a snubby, the load that seems to do the best in stopping folks is the 158 grain lead, semi-wadcutter hollowpoint. (LSWCHP) Most ammo makers produce their version of this, but I favor Federal.
It's capable of more accuracy than most people think. The thing is, it's hard to obtain that accuracy out of it. If you're not punching golfball size groups at 7 yds with it, then you need more practice, as the gun itself is easily capable of the feat.
I'd suggest getting some speedloaders for it. HKS is alright, but the Safariland Comp 1's are best. Get a couple.
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Yes, it is a Model 36.
I put some larger and more comfy Hogue grips on it after my first trip to the range.
I believe I understand your point, but I'm afraid I don't agree. Money is absolutely an object.
I could certainly continue to spend more and increase the level of "protection" at my disposal ad infinitum. I'm more interested in identifying and pursuing the point where ROI is maximized and diminishing returns starts to set in.
I certainly could have spent more and attained a hands-down better weapon than a simple but solid .38, but I judged the advantages of such a decision to be existent but largely insignificant; particularly considering the likelihood that the weapon will never be drawn or fired outside of training.
To look at this in another light, I could invest near-infinite amounts of money in my vehicles to make them safer and decrease my (and my loved ones') risk of death or injury in a car crash, but at some point a judgment call has to be made that enough is enough and that a certain degree of risk must simply be tolerated.
I put some larger and more comfy Hogue grips on it after my first trip to the range.
I believe I understand your point, but I'm afraid I don't agree. Money is absolutely an object.
I could certainly continue to spend more and increase the level of "protection" at my disposal ad infinitum. I'm more interested in identifying and pursuing the point where ROI is maximized and diminishing returns starts to set in.
I certainly could have spent more and attained a hands-down better weapon than a simple but solid .38, but I judged the advantages of such a decision to be existent but largely insignificant; particularly considering the likelihood that the weapon will never be drawn or fired outside of training.
To look at this in another light, I could invest near-infinite amounts of money in my vehicles to make them safer and decrease my (and my loved ones') risk of death or injury in a car crash, but at some point a judgment call has to be made that enough is enough and that a certain degree of risk must simply be tolerated.
This is interesting. I can certainly see where a revolver would be more likely to fail due to contamination from sand.
However, I don't consider this to be significant for my application simply because I don't have any obvious sources of such contamination inside my house. I like that the revolver will continue to operate normally without energy input from the ammunition. Perhaps I have my priorities out of line.
Really, I consider handgun reliability to be primarily an academic discussion. I'm confident that any quality handgun (revolver or magazine fed) will operate with an acceptable degree of reliability in a clean indoor environment if properly maintained and loaded with compatible ammunition.
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Semi autos tolerate abuse better than revolvers. IE; they'll sustain a drop in the sand or concrete better than a revolver.
However, revolvers tolerate neglect better than semi-autos.
Semi-autos can be ammo sensitive, whereas revolvers will pretty much shoot whatever you can stuff in the chamber. (altho your own bad round makes the case for shooting good ammo, even for practice.)
Both, well maintained and fed good ammo, are extremely reliable.
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However, revolvers tolerate neglect better than semi-autos.
Semi-autos can be ammo sensitive, whereas revolvers will pretty much shoot whatever you can stuff in the chamber. (altho your own bad round makes the case for shooting good ammo, even for practice.)
Both, well maintained and fed good ammo, are extremely reliable.
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I understand your view, but using your car example, it would be the difference between a Yugo and a Rolls Royce.
Either would probably get you there, but the Rolls will do it reliably, everytime. The Yugo, not so much.
So, as you said, there is a balance between the Yugo (the 'barely adequate') and the Rolls ("Waaaay more than adequate!')
The gun you've selected is a great gun........FOR ITS TYPE.
Many would not choose to rely on a five shot .38 snubby for serious personal defense. Altho, many others would....
One time when I carried a Model 36 as my only gun, it turned out that I might need to use it for a developing altercation in the parking lot, where a gun was already drawn. (not on me, tho) Suddenly, I felt tremendously undergunned. My .45 was in the car and I was able to retrieve it. AS SOON as I had the .45 in hand, I was stunned at how much better I felt, should I need to use it. (as it turned out, no shots were fired and I left the scene without showing my gun to anyone)
But that feeling.......the one of "oh, crap! I only have a 5-shot .38 !!........is one I'll never forget.
So, saying money is important in your gun selection, I can understand that......but I often hear how this or that "costs too much" then they buy a super duper Rolls Royce quality stereo system, a Wii, Cuban cigars or whatever.
Personally, I find a 5-shot .38 to be bare minimum for a serious defense gun.
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Hmm, I think you would be hard pressed to objectively prove that say a 686 is more reliable than a GP100 or a Model 629 is better than a Redhawk... What would it be based on?
I have both Rugers and Smiths. For example, my 625 Smith is damn twitchy whereas my 686 isn't. My Redhawk has never had a problem. My 6" Python has been reliable as well. I would also say, if I had a overloaded .357 cartridge, I'd rather put it through my SP101 than a smith-- it is built like a tank. I also personally like the coil spring in rugers better than the leaf in smiths.
As for auto vs semi argument, people should pick whichever they shoot better and feel more comfortable with. I am fairly certain many "carry a 1911 always advocates" stick a .38 in their pocket to go the store.
Heres some related trivia, i've got an old issue of G&A from the late 70's early 80's with an article on a custom revolver called the Couger. Basically it was a Ruger Speed six (precursor to the GP-100) with a stainless Colt Python barrel mated to the frame. Ruger reliability/serviceability with colt accuracy. Kinda cool!
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I am guessing in spite of that, the .38 finds itself on your person more than the .45
And it did its job, it covered you to get the hell out of there ...- Joined
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Lots of good (and maybe less than good) advice here. My suggestion would be to look into three things . . .
1. Join the NRA
2. Read some good books on self-defense and the legal uses of lethal force
3. Check out used revolvers. There are a lot of revolvers turned in by police departments that moved to semi-autos. You can probably find an excellent S&W for less than even a Rossi new.
1. Join the NRA
2. Read some good books on self-defense and the legal uses of lethal force
3. Check out used revolvers. There are a lot of revolvers turned in by police departments that moved to semi-autos. You can probably find an excellent S&W for less than even a Rossi new.
Grappler1911
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I base the SW 686 more reliabile than the GP100 on the fact I worked at Big Al's Security guard school and range.
We were training 20 to 50 guards for their G licence "armed Guard" a week.
We used Smiths for many years with no problems.
When we started using the Ruger Gp 100 they all broke down in a month.
We also rented out both guns.
Ruger refuced to keep fixing them.
The Smith has a MUCH better trigger.
The Smith will keep working even if abused,dry and/or dirty.
The Ruger is a decent gun if you keep it clean.
To me for a little extra cash I'd buy the Smith for the trigger alone.
The way the Rugers broke down,I'd pass.
I was a full time instructor for 4 years straight.
I've used dozens of examples of both guns.
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I am guessing in spite of that, the .38 finds itself on your person more than the .45
No, sir, you'd lose that bet.
In fact, that day in 1982 was the last time I ever wore a .38 snubby as my primary sidearm.
For me, "minimum" is a 9mm semi-auto or larger.
As I type this, it's an XD-40
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The combination that pre-dated the Cougar was the "Smolt"
this was acheived by puttng the Python barrel on a S&W Model 19.
Also cool !
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