first time making a sheath and working with leather

For contact cement, you need to rough up the smooth sides of the leather to get a good bond.

I will often use something as simple as a sharp awl to scratch up the areas on the smooth side I am gluing up. They make specific tools for it.

You can use low grit sandpaper (I have never done this because I was wondering if grit left in the leather might scratch the knife).
 
Another oil to use is Olive oil, instead of Neatsfoot it works well and similar cost, the undyed leather will pick up marks and get dirty.

The trick with contact glue is to wait until it's no linger wet , slightly tacky, then press together and use a mallet to whack it a few times.
 
Rule number one on gluing leather, always rough up that smooth side, it gives the tooth that is needed for the glue to grasp.

Never heard about Barge needing clamping, but I could never spend that much more over Weldwood brand.

It might be that contact cement requires a setting period before both sides are mated. Put a good coating on both sides of the two pieces to be joined, let them sit untill they are no longer wet, simply tacky (almost dry) then mate them together. Do it right the first time or you will be doing it all over again. ;) There is NO room for movement, once they meet, they are done, you have to tear them apart.
 
I should of known to rough the leather up first. I did let each piece dry before sticking together. Learned a lot information thanks to you guys:) my next sheath will be better.
Got it all stitched up. Drilled the holes with a 5/64" drill bit and drill press. Stitching it really squeezed the layers together. Probably an 1/8" thinner now.
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For roughing I use an old rat tail file. Works very well and I can rough very accurately. Years ago I switched from Barge to Weldwood in the green can. I feel that not only does the Weldwood work better than Barge but the stuff in the green can doesn't get ya seeing sounds and hearing colors like Barge does. The only thing I can't get it to work on is zippers for a pair of shotgun chaps. But I don't make many of those anymore. Always tap your glued surfaces with a mallet.
 
I clamped my Barge because the bottle said to, it's certainly possible that it's unnecessary. The WW stuff says on the bottle that clamping is not required.

Either way, good advice. Letting it dry and tapping with a mallet to set are both things that were recommended when I looked into their use.

:)
 
One thing I got to remember to do next time when I stitch up a sheath is to tape up my fingers first. I got a couple good cuts that are pretty sore today.
 
Back before I got my machines, I, like everyone else did a lot of hand stitching and along with that I had the thread cuts and sore fingers. I took a pair of roping gloves, fairy light weight and supple and cut the thumb and forefinger off about 1 1/2 inches of both right and left gloves. (per photo). That was the end of the cuts and sore spots and my dexterity was not impaired in the least.

Paul
 
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Finally got around to apply a finish. I used saddle soap and buffed it for like a couple hours. It darkened up the leather and polished the rough edges out. I like how the color turned out.
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Sunlight will also cause the leather to darken naturally. If that is what you want. One of my sheaths has turned a really nice color from being used outside.
 
For anyone with sore fingers, one of the knifemakers on the boards has started selling finger cot type sleeves made of neoprene. I believe he calls them Rhino Skins. They were originally designed to protect fingers from heat while grinding blades, but I think they would be great for hand stitching. They can be found in the Knifemakers supplies forum. I have no skin in the game btw, just thought they might be helpful. :)
 
Recently I have been using a cotton glove that is coated in rubber when I'm stitching. Having to use pliers to get your needle through the second pass was not appealing to me anymore. The gloves give you incredible grip on the needle and I am able to pull it through without using the pliers. These also work great when stitching rawhide...

Very nice design btw...excellent work for your first sheath.
 
My fingers still are scarred over.... with the coolant from work the cuts keep opening back up and drying out and my fingers still are sore.... next time I'll get some of them rubber coated cotton gloves from work.
 
Maybe I'm doing something wrong, but my fingers aren't bothered that much by saddle stitching.

I have kevlar gloves and a few different kinds of cut resistant gloves, including the rubber coated knits, but I really haven't had to use them much.
 
Keep going Strig buddy you will. Outside of those 30 or 40 hand stitches I did back in Jan, I have not hand sewn anything for years. Maybe 15 to 20 years. I still have calluses on the outside of both pinkies from pulling the thread tight. Kinda like a guitar player I guess, they never go away.
 
The odd callous placement and the uncanny hand strength are two of the most outstanding results of lots of hand stitching. Since I got an old machine a year and a half ago I've never hand stitched so many sheaths. Yea, I know, doesn't make sense but it is what it is.

I break and bend cheap pliers, Craftsman hates me, ;) I've returned quite a few smooth jaw jewelers pliers through the years. But they work so well.

Never worn gloves myself, but I am edging up on 20 years of leather craft. :)
 
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