First time with a major mod - advice requested (carving scales)

[sharpandsafe]

First of all, please forgive me if this is not the proper forum! The discussions here seemed to mesh with my questions better than in the tinkering and embellishment forums. This planned mod has been on the back burner of my mind for a while and I am finally ready to attempt it.

This will be a stripped Becker with stabilized redwood burl scales. My questions are in regards to the scales. How should I go about this to ensure that they match the contour of the original scales. I thought about buying a caliper to compare dimensions to the original scales at various points during the carving grinding process. Is this appropriate.

Also, what additional hand tools will I need to work on this. I currently have one of the higher-end rotary tools along with a work stand for it and many attachments, a power drill and sandpaper. I do not want to acquire any more power tools. What other hand tools are absolutely essential? I was thinking along the lines of carving gouges/spoons and maybe calipers.

Additional question: would untreated, dry red flame box elder be an appropriate material for adding to a traditional scandi stick tang stock blade, or is it too soft/brittle for this?

Thanks very much for your input, and please move this thread to the correct forum if I made a mistake.

Cheers,

Sharpandsafe

 

[jawilder]

You would do well to have a drill press and would have a hard time getting straight holes without it.

For tools, you don't need much more than a rasp and files, as well as sandpaper up to the highest grit you can find. 400 would work, 2000 would be better.

For your additional question, unstabilized burl is often too fragile for knife handles. You could try it and hope for the best, but I'd expect the worse.

Hope this helps.

 

[sharpandsafe]

You would do well to have a drill press and would have a hard time getting straight holes without it.

For tools, you don't need much more than a rasp and files, as well as sandpaper up to the highest grit you can find. 400 would work, 2000 would be better.

For your additional question, unstabilized burl is often too fragile for knife handles.

Thanks for the info! The rotary tool stand works like a little drill press, but it is not as solid (i.e. the tolerances are not as tight and there is a little "wiggle" in the parts) as a professional piece of equipment, but I expect it will deliver serviceably straight holes for this application.

The Box Elder wood I am contemplating for the scandi is not burl, but straight-grain heart wood.